WahooSteeler

Thanks guys, for some reason I thought I remembered reading they were a little wider at both the frame end and the open end.

I just spent the past hour doing a search and am ready for the easy way out.......ask on a new post. I have some Chevy drop shackles I'm about to install, are they direct bolt in or do they require any modification to fit?

Or..........shackles in the back or 4wd leafs to get @1" lift and maybe level it?

I was never a fan on those wheels on 4x4 Jeeps, but I think they look great on your lowered 2wd setup. Call me weird, but that's my 2 cents worth.

Pete, generally I'd prefer not to cut and grind much, if anything, off the mounting buckets since I don't really wheel my truck so trying to determine if I need to just get new LCAs. I have the WJ arms in now and of course the improvement was dramatic and eliminated the rub of my 31s at full lock. I'm replacing the ZJ V8 coils in there now with OME 2930s plus keeping the 1.5" spacer already there so I think I'm going from @2.25-2.5" to 3.25-3.5" lift which was the goal.

How much lift can I go with WJ LCA's, without substantial cutting and grinding?

Dammit..........someone on FB page Jeep Preservation Society just posted they bought it!! Was going to look at it Friday or Saturday on my way to WVU to pick up my son for Tgiving break! Ugggghhhh!!

Yup, the boxes just said ES3096 but I KNEW when I researched the parts and ordered it was ES3096L so I checked my receipt and confirmed that. Just wanted to triple check before installing.

Pete, not sure on the reverse threads, I know when I ordered the end joint I specified "left". I agree with Derf and Eagle to put the fixed end on the pass side since both the drag link and adj track bar have the fixed end there too.

Kind of a crazy (stupid) question, but I'm getting ready to change out my tie rod today to the ZJ V8 unit and of course the stock unit has adjusting sleeves on both ends whereas the replacement unit has a fixed ball joint on one end and a adjustment sleeve/ball joint for the other end. Does it matter which end goes which way? I.e. does the fixed end connect to the drag link or to the steering knuckle?

Ha! Thanks Dzimm.......hopefully it's not too far off the interstate. My main interest in it is the bed, I picked up a rust free short bed (just the bed) last year in...........Martinsburg, WV!, to salvage the wheel arches on to my truck when I get around to painting it.

I'll be passing right by Martinsburg next week on my way to pick up my son from WVU for Thanksgiving break, I may seriously have to pull off and take a look at this.

That's good info!

Thanks for the confirmation

Derf, thanks for the info. Was also trying to confirm the spline count on the pinion gear for both the D30 & D44 if you happen to know that info. I believe the D44 pinion is 26 spline, not sure on the D30 pinion. New gears would be nice, but the budget and amount of usage my truck gets does not warrant that amount of investment, it's not a DD. The regear is more of a want than a need. I have 3.54s on 31" tires and it does fine. I did plan on getting new shims, bearings and seals. I messaged the seller about the "95b" and he said that is just an internal designation for what it came out of, in this case a 95 YJ.

Piecing together the parts to re-gear in the not too distant future. Got my eye on a carrier/R&P combo that the seller says is from a YJ D30HP, which should work (the carrier is for 3.73s+, which I need). First question, I'm assuming that unit was 27 spline axles like in my 88? What is the standard pinion spline count? Second question, I have a factory D44 rear which is 30 spline axles, correct? What is the standard pinion spline count? Last question, the seller's description says "Jeep Wrangler YJ ..... 87-95 95b". What is the "95b" designation refer to??

I always thought this was a popular photoshop job.........this is real Pete?

I'm no expert, but I'm going to throw in my 2 cents here. I'm planning to regear my 354s soon, and I also am running an AW4 and 31" tires, and basically the same type of usage. I've debated this same question over and over. Why the push for 410s when his usage clearly is mostly on the road AND he said he doesn't not anticipate going any taller on tires? He's not towing or doing any heavy hauling. I've played around on the grimmjeeper.com gear gungalator and if IIRC 373s are closer to stock RPMs than 410s and he's running an automatic. He "should" get better MPG with 373s than 410s......marginal, yes, but every little bit counts IMO.

Jeff, just put a pork butt on the Smokey Joe, fill the cooler with Bud Light and you'll be done in no time!

LOL, thanks for indulging me........... sometimes I get caught up in saving a few bucks despite what truly makes sense because my MJ is only a weekend work truck and occasional DD when my son is home from college. Since I was left to ponder this on my own LOL (because it was a stupid question anyway) I thought it would be like putting 3 new tires on it but not a 4th just because it still has enough tread to pass inspection LOL. The piece of mind of replacing it all is worth it anyway.

Crickets..........

Interesting, had never seen anybody mention 28mm could be had "back in the day". My truck is a loaded out Laredo so not entirely surprised, particularly because it came with D44, tow pkg, heavy duty cooling, trans cooler etc. so somebody ordered it set up to tow and haul.

So my track bar fell off at the frame side, non-greaseable ball joint gave out. Fortunately I had picked up a heavy duty adjustable one a while back to upgrade with and/or if I went with more lift at some point. Anyhoo, I decided I may as well upgrade my tie rod and drag link to the beefier ZJ V8 and later Cherokee units while I was replacing the track bar. I also had picked up a ZJ sway bar for cheap a while back that I had not put on yet, so only made sense to do it all. I crawled under yesterday to begin the process and noticed that my sway bar and drag link looked pretty stout. Upon measuring, I already have a 28mm sway bar and the drag link measured out the same thickness as the DS1238 I got to upgrade to a stronger piece. My steering has some play in it but not bad overall IMO, and I suspect a lot of that had to do with the worn out track bar. The ball joints have been greased regularly on the drag link so should I save $50 and take back the replacement or just go ahead and replace the current one? I'm assuming the one on there now is not the OE unit because they were not this big on '88 models. I am only the 2nd owner so I guess the PO, who used it as his DD, replaced it at some point. I'm probably splitting hairs but was curious for opinions.

I am in search of the speaker grilles on the door panel, the larger ones with metal face not the standard plastic vent/grille that I have now. These are screwed and/or riveted to the cardboard door panel. Preferably maroon but any color will do as I can paint to match (at least close enough). If I need to buy the whole door panel I will consider that if the price is right. Hoping someone has some door panels that are in rough shape but the speaker grilles intact. Thanks!

C'mon Pete, that's just one shoulder! I bet it would pass inspection and coupled with the unused spare on the bottom the AVERAGE tread depth is plenty deep LOL