WahooSteeler

This is what I am looking for. Yes on part numbers but they are the same IIRC. How much? Switch to PM if you want.

Outstanding! Love love love it!

Lemons, let me know. Dude, got a picture? Looking for the 93-98 version, they changed styles in 99.

WTB ZJ coolant overflow tank

Krusty, sorry I missed your reply somehow, I did not get a notification of a reply to my post. I found one and it's on its way. Now looking for a ZJ coolant tank, got one of those??

JefCooks, Stant P/N 10334 is an 18psi cap, available just about anywhere <$6

Got the plug from Lowes yesterday too. 1/4" barb by 1/2" threaded base which fits inside the 3/4" hose perfectly. 1/4" barb was a good snug fit too. I had one of the stock open system bottles and filled that to "full", then poured it into the closed system bottle. Overflowed a little but not much at all.

I was planning (hoping) to come up with a similar solution using the original bottle, a lot easier than trying to mess with coming up with a way to mount the stock open system bottle. I like what you did. Where did you get that 3/4 plug with the 5/16 barb? Also, the stock overflow bottle on the open system has a vent so couldn't you have just left the top hose connector unplugged to serve the same purpose?

Thanks for the timely response. I am literally in the middle of installing a new rad and converting to open cooling. Old one finally sprung a leak somewhere, can't complain since it's the original 31yr old unit w/225k on it! That large plug you are referring to I'm pretty sure is where your efan temp sensor goes.

Which O-rings? Size? Part #? On the rad I'm only thinking of the e-fan temp port and the trans lines, what am I missing?

You are correct, it does. Long bed roll bar has longer legs to reach the wheel hump, the red truck it is sitting in is a friends, not the OP's truck.

Looking to get a later model XJ 10 blade electric fan.......Thanks

Yes, OP's truck is a short bed.

Well, as you already know, you have one required stop built in to your trip. Everybody loves Pedro!

I want to say $125 plus shipping. Mine was not too bad off. He took it all apart, cleaned and painted the sending unit, tested the potentiameter (sp?), tested the pump, and provided a new lock ring and gasket. Only drawback was it took at least a month. It's a mom and pop operation, I talked to his wife a couple times calling to check on progress. I liken it to a small engine repair shop, can't make any money unless it's just one or two people and always backed up. But, they were super nice and I'd use them again. They forgot to send the lock ring and gasket when they first sent it back and she was so apologetic when I called and sent it out 2 day express mail on their dime w/out hesitation. Good old fashioned customer service.

I sent mine to Tri Starr, did a nice job IMO, probably have 5k on it since rebuild, no issues.

Thanks...........some people like to have their thread stay on point with their specific issues being discussed, and I understand and respect that. But when there is a chance to save another thread being started to discuss almost the same thing, helps when searching for info later!

True. As I mentioned in a post above, I am following this thread closely and one of the main reasons is my rad just sprung a leak. I am only the 2nd owner and it just may be the original unit. When I replace it, I want to disconnect the trans from running through it. I have the factory trans cooler with the tow package but was thinking of adding a second unit and run them in series like some others have done. Thoughts?

JefCooks, I hope you don't mind but I'd like to ask questions on your thread because a lot of what is being said are related to a thread I was about to start. If you'd prefer to keep this thread strictly to your situation I respect that completely and will still start a new thread. Comment/question to your above post about burping the system. Since you have an open system, I thought parking the truck on an incline was not necessary, i.e. that was for burping closed systems?

AZJeff, I know the "burp holes" on the stat is a common recommendation for closed systems, which I have, but to clarify is this a recommended idea even for open systems? And I am asking the same question regarding your last comment that MJ "cooling systems" are marginally designed? So are you stating in your opinion both the closed AND open systems are marginal? I certainly see plenty of people with open systems still complaining of overheating issues in their MJ/XJs so that seems to support your comment and also feeds the never ending open vs closed debate.

Love the BFGs, I run the same on Ravine wheels. Also have the WJ lowers, big difference not only from no rubbing on full lock but just "tightened up" the front end. And yes, the list is endless. Every time I think I make some progress either new things get added by choice or necessity LOL.

Looks great! Love what you've done with this truck. Any further plans?

91 and 92 would be an open system.....

I'm nowhere near the guy to ask for troubleshooting this stuff, but I fight the same reoccurring overheating problems. That said, have you checked your stat? What brand are you running. For awhile my temps seemed to be TOO cool and I guessed the stat was stuck open because it would stay at 165ish around town but once under load either on the highway or up long grades, the temp just kept rising and never recovered. As a side note, the stat in there was a Stant 195 and only had 3-4k miles on it. Additionally, the PO had hardwired the electric fan to the ignition so it runs 100% of the time. Even though it's not my daily, I didn't want to be restricted from hwy use if needed. I had read so many people post how even a decent brand stat ended up failing them right out of the box or with not much use and then they got an OEM Mopar and voila.......problem solved. So I put in a Mopar recently. Started the truck and let it run til it reached operating temp and BAM, the temp dropped 20-30 degrees.......... stat opened! Then of course it leveled out on temps and I could still see just by movement of the temp gauge when the stat was opening and closing. As many people have said on here several times, OEM Mopar is the way to go whenever you can. Based on my recent experience, that's what I plan to do going forward. This might not be your problem, just adding my 2 cents.

Two people can carry it, 3 or 4 is much easier