WahooSteeler

I should stay on the sideline but I just can't any longer. Jeep Driver, you insult people's intelligence on here ALL THE FREAKING TIME!!! Yes, it is clear you are highly knowledgeable about Jeeps and have an above average knowledge of mechanical workings. You were not born that way, you learned what you know. The majority of members here are doing just that.....learning. But almost every time someone engages you or debates you, you dismiss them as ignorant or uneducated. You are not just blunt and direct, you are rude. Granted, the written word on forum posts, emails etc does not always properly convey the attitude, tone or intent of the speaker's comments. But after awhile, if it looks like a duck, walks like a duck and sounds like a duck, then it's a duck! You may remove the "u" from duck and insert an "i" and that it is you Jeep Driver! And nowhere on this thread has anybody suggested or insinuated you were a liar in any shape or form. Get over yourself. Rant over................

Well, considering a tire/wheel setup on that truck with that much lift is $3-4k, maybe they ran out of money! And for the record that model Hummer with the trunk (it would be blasphemous to call it a "bed") is the most useless design ever created.

757, as Keyav8r pointed out above, there is a lot of amperage running through the headlight switch regardless if you are running LEDs so it's a critical upgrade no matter what. They run @$15 on eBay and that might save you the $100-300 you would spend on good LED headlamps if you are satisfied with the increased output from your stock units.

Manche757, I'm no expert but if you haven't done the headlight relay harness, that is generally considered a great solution to dim headlights whether you stick with standard headlamps or go LED. If you still aren't satisfied with the light output after that, maybe consider LEDs but they can get expensive and the really cheap ones seem to be just that....cheap. Certainly a subject that has been debated 100 times over on here so a search for those threads would be worth your reading. I have the headlight relay but have not installed it yet, definitely on the priority "to do" list in the next month or two.

I bought mine online. The stock bulb is a 906. You can get LED replacements at any auto store for these. While you're at it though, you should absolutely install LED projector bulbs for your reverse lights. When I say it's like night and day, I mean it. There are tons of brands out there, mostly chinese made but look for ones that have the Cree brand chip in them, they are supposedly the best. Also, make sure they are the "projector" type, they have a little glass bulb at the end that helps disperse the light. Also, make sure the base does not have a flange at the top of it or it won't go in to the socket far enough. The brand I got on eBay was Genssi at Hornbrod's suggestion after he raved about them. LED selection in auto stores is getting better all the time so you might find these 1156 projector types local now. Speaking of Hornbrod, found a LED conversion chart once posted by him. This should help.......... LED Conversion Chart.pdf

Manche757, factory pigtail should be in place. LED's really make a difference too.

The reality is, as every member on this forum should know, the seller has what is probably the rarest of rare factory parts for an MJ. Supply and demand will find a buyer at that price. It may take a while, but someone doing a restoration or just someone with deep pockets knowing the near impossibility of finding one of these will buy it.

C88, I talked to you about this on FB.........glad you posted here for all to see. Amazing job, one of the best looking MJ's I've seen, hands down.

Driver side firewall beside your brake booster.....

I went through this process about 8yrs ago and found several dealer sites that showed inventory, not just on bumpers but other parts, and "ordered" it only to get an email a few days later that their website/inventory had not been updated and it was no longer available. I think the 2 most extinct Comanche parts are rear bumpers and bedsides. Every couple of years an NOS bumper seems to show up on Ebay or Clist. I've probably seen 3? factory replacement bedsides for sale in the 10+ years I've owned my truck and been on the lookout.

So the square 4 pin connector is in place right off of the TB. As I started to trace the wires to the 3 pin connector I noticed for the first time where they had been spliced evidenced by the heat shrink tubing in the picture attached. But as I follow the loom down the length of the valve cover, the only wires exiting the loom are to the injectors (and discovery of #6 leaking!), a single wire to the coolant temp sending unit, two wires to a connector that goes to the MAT, and then the loom turns and continues to the C101 connector where 3 wires come out of the loom and are part of a large 3 wire connector that traces back along the top of the firewall towards the pass side, i.e. it does not connect to the C101 anywhere. Obviously I'm just going to have to pull the loom off and trace the spliced wires, but why in the hell would anybody do this? There is a 3 wire connector in the other picture attached, but it only has 2 wires going in it, and it the wires come out of a smaller loom along the firewall coming from the pass side, so it does not seem this is "the missing link".

My truck, he just drives it LOL. Auto.....

Yes and no. It's there somewhere, I assume, I just haven't traced the 3 wire harness all the way to that connector yet and it is not in plain view at the back of the engine or firewall. So the engine side of the harness is on about a 6 inch pigtail, which appears to be normal. But the trans side would have to be at least 2ft or more once I have a chance to trace it to the connector. The truck is my high school son's daily and he won't be home til later tonight from a school event so I'll post up a picture later.

Finally got around to installing my bored TB yesterday afternoon. When I removed the stock unit, I noticed my TPS has one connector right there by the TB and the other 3-wire harness goes in to a wiring loom towards the back of the engine. Darkness and the threat of rain kept me from tracing where it connected eventually, but needless to say this very perplexing. I have a Mopar replacement TPS I was going to install also but the connectors are both only about 6 inches long, point being the one lead will never reach the other connector it goes to. A Google/YouTube search did not provide any answers as everything I saw had both connectors right in the TB area. Anybody familiar with this?

Here is the brand the Advance Auto, or it may have been Auto Zone, had in stock when I bought it, Metro Supersoft. You can get this brand online also. https://www.metrommp.com/pages/Manufacturing/06_SUPERsoftSponge.html Picture is the grommet in the radio antenna hole that exits behind the passenger fender. I sealed the based with the rubber butyl then sprayed it with a flex seal knockoff for a little extra protection.

I'm gonna try to make it, so I'd be happy to pick you up. I have a long bed remember, you'll be plenty comfortable back there!

I researched seam sealer, butyl tape, butyl rubber, there are lots of name variations but as I was searching for the multitude of possible leak locations on XJ/MJs I came across somebody that used this product to seal the leak they had around the vent that comes up through the cowl. Anyhoo, lots of brands out there but the Advance Auto website said they had the 3M round seam sealer in stock but when I got there it was a different brand. Got it anyway because it was what I was looking for. I've still got the box at home so I'll post that later. There is flat "tape" and round and they come in different thicknesses and widths. I used round but the flat tape probably would have worked well in the applications I did because I definitely worked the round bead a lot. Stuff is verrry tacky so I used latex gloves and then read a tip about spraying the fingertips of the gloves with WD40 to not only keep it from sticking to the latex but it made it much easier to form or push in to place. I also found that it was easier to do it in short pieces especially in tight places. I had tried some rubberized spray like FlexSeal before I came across this, and again, if you're trying to hit a certain area in a tight space it just ends up a mess. Cost runs @$0.75-$1.00/ft, well worth it. Since my interior was apart I also applied some around my back window where some original seal had deteriorated. You can see in the main pic the amount of material I put around the blower motor and "folded" under the metal edge to the factory foam. Because another location of water intrusion identified is on the cowl seam, I loaded up there also. In the second pic I also put a bunch in the corner where the fender panel meets the inner fender as water can go down there and get in through your radio antenna cable opening. Last pic show where I applied it around the foam where a/c lines enter the cab. If you look hard down past the white, green and yellow vacuum lines in the first pic, you can somewhat see where I also put it around the a/c condensation drain. I tried to hit as many areas of possible water entry as possible. I did this about 6 mos ago and we have had some major rain in our area the past year, and fortunately it remains dry. Some good info on butyl rubber........ https://www.butyltape.org/butyl-tape/automotive-butyl-tape/

Check the blower motor opening from the engine bay. There is a piece of foam that mounts from the inside at the blower opening and also where your condenser lines come in to the cab. 99% chance it's original and 30yr old foam dries out leaving gaps and water finds its way in there for sure. Believe it or not, you can still get these foam pieces but it involves, IIRC, pulling the dash to replace them. I had the never ending leak on the pass side also and I believe the 2 main culprits were the blower motor opening and the radio antenna opening behind the passenger kick panel. For both of these areas, I bought rubber butyl and formed it around the openings. I did the antenna opening first and the amount of water coming in reduced a fair amount but in heavy rains I was still getting water and I could see it trickling down from under the dash so that's when I did around the blower motor and other areas in the engine bay. Knock on wood, cab has been dry ever since. I'll post pics later.

I have a 6.5" dual voice coil bazooka tube in my truck with a 70 watt amp at 2ohms...........plenty of thump. Behind bucket seats.

I had Jeep MJ here in VA for many years and took them off so my son can get his own custom plates since it's his DD until he goes off to school. He never chose anything so when I went back to get that plate again..........TAKEN!! Pete, how about CC Chief? Or HMJIC (Head MJ In Charge!) Too bad we're not a J10 group, you could get HD HONCHO

Saw this on the "All Things Jeep Comanche" page on Facebook. Located in Harford County MD.........some rust on the pass side in front of wheel well. Guy only wants $100 for it but wants it gone by this weekend.

Neo, another option is to put the tweeters in the door panel by the handle. The picture attached is not the best example because they were flat mounted, whereas for best imaging they would be mounted with some type of irregular base that gave you some flexibility to project the sound waves in the most optimum direction. I've seen more custom mounted efforts that achieved this. The sail panel is the best place to mount tweeters IMO because it is the most forward of the seated listening position, allowing for greater positioning of the high frequency sound direction. But as already noted, that gets in to a much more custom installation. With your fantastic looking "brochure ready" remodel, I'm guessing you'd be like Minuit and want to keep it as stock looking as possible.......i.e. hidden speakers.

Several choices available for 32x11.50R15..........

You can run 31's w/out a lift, but it's pretty tight. A 3" lift is better suited and you can run 32's. Anything bigger you'll get in to the need for different backspacing on your wheels. The main issue will be rubbing on the LCA's with either of those size tires. A common remedy is to use WJ LCA's as they have a curve in the middle to eliminate the rubbing. Aftermarket LCA's usually work also as they are not as wide/thick as stock MJ LCA's.

What brand of belt did you put on? I had the forever screeching belt noise. I had replaced the idler pulley, then the fan clutch because it had gone bad, then installed a JY a/c compressor to get my a/c going again. Was hoping one of those was the culprit.......nope. Tightened it up a good bit as the consensus is 4.0L belts need to be above avg tight. A little better but did not eliminate it, then eventually back to really annoying and loud. Had a shop I trust spend some time with it, said he couldn't find anything wrong and suggested we try to putting a Gates belt instead of the Dayco that was put on there @1yr ago when the fan clutch was replaced at another shop. I also heard a "Gatorback" belt worked for many people so I got one off ebay. Anyhoo, I had the shop put the Gates on and other than an occasional squeal at startup, it's been quiet ever since and @1500+ miles of driving. Still got the Gatorback belt to try if the squealing comes back with a vengeance.