WahooSteeler

91 and 92 would be an open system.....

I'm nowhere near the guy to ask for troubleshooting this stuff, but I fight the same reoccurring overheating problems. That said, have you checked your stat? What brand are you running. For awhile my temps seemed to be TOO cool and I guessed the stat was stuck open because it would stay at 165ish around town but once under load either on the highway or up long grades, the temp just kept rising and never recovered. As a side note, the stat in there was a Stant 195 and only had 3-4k miles on it. Additionally, the PO had hardwired the electric fan to the ignition so it runs 100% of the time. Even though it's not my daily, I didn't want to be restricted from hwy use if needed. I had read so many people post how even a decent brand stat ended up failing them right out of the box or with not much use and then they got an OEM Mopar and voila.......problem solved. So I put in a Mopar recently. Started the truck and let it run til it reached operating temp and BAM, the temp dropped 20-30 degrees.......... stat opened! Then of course it leveled out on temps and I could still see just by movement of the temp gauge when the stat was opening and closing. As many people have said on here several times, OEM Mopar is the way to go whenever you can. Based on my recent experience, that's what I plan to do going forward. This might not be your problem, just adding my 2 cents.

Two people can carry it, 3 or 4 is much easier

Same on the fruit woods, I'll use apple wood with pork tenderloins. If you like salmon, put a slab with melted butter and Chef Prudhome's redfish seasoning on your grill over some of that cherry. Deeeelish!

Most, if not all, of your questions are answered in this similar thread......

Chef Jeff, saw Guy Fieri sample some fried ribs on DDD recently, I had to put a bucket under my mouth I was salivating so bad LOL. I'm gonna have to do that ASAP. I was going to do a shoulder on the Weber kettle this weekend but like you had rain the whole time. Had to do it crockpot style. Turned out good but liquid smoke is no substitute fro the real thing.

Curious. In the 10+ years I have owned my MJ and been on CC, I don't remember ever reading or hearing about a shackle that will lift the rear of an MJ 2". Additionally, any XJ shackle on an MJ will be roughly 1/2 of what is advertised for lift on an XJ. Hence, Pete's comment that a standard XJ shackle will actually lower an MJ. These are reported to lift the rear of an XJ 1", so that would only give @ 1/2" to an MJ.

Yes, those appear to be a factory 3+2 MT pack. 3 primary springs and 2 overload springs. Nice.

Sprinkle baking soda on your floor (assuming you have carpet) and your seats (assuming they are cloth), let them sit for a day or more if you can. Vacuum off. Might take two or three times but once the baking soda works its way in to the fibers it will get better.

Teraflex has backing plates for D44s that need no modification, no drilling or need to enlarge the holes. When you order you must specify if they are early D44s or late model.

I bet if you took that cigarette out of his hand, he couldn't speak a full sentence LOL. The one he had in the other vid was down to the filter LOL.

I bet those would work perfect if you had a toolbox on there.

Check the diameter of that kit on the drag link. For a little bit more you can upgrade to a later model XJ drag link that is much thicker. A ZJ drag link will work also, but the geometry is slightly different whereas the later XJ unit is still the same geometry for XJ/MJ. Moog DS1238 is your part number. O'Reilys, Napa and Advance all sell "in house" private branded units with the same part number for a little less. Don't hold me to it but many people believe those are made by Moog too.

Absolutely. Which brings the question up of where is that on the 4.0L Renix and HO? For those that use their trucks as a DD and/or never "wheel" it, seems that would be the optimal starting point to shoot for. Certainly there are other factors of does the driver do mostly city driving? Highway? Reasonable mix? But again, seems like a logical place to start from and then if the driver wheels a lot, hauls a lot, tows a lot, etc then they adjust from there.

So above the wheel wells you didn't notice any rust? Might have to make a phone call on that one.

I have 3.55s, auto, 4.0L, 31s. As another poster noted, on flat highway it can stretch it's legs pretty nice. Off the line it doesn't jump but it's not bad at all IMO. My plan is to go to 3.73s and try to get a little better mileage than 4.10s but pull grades better and when I do some occasional hauling. The past week I have been using a friends dump trailer to haul a lot of brush to a dump site about 5 miles away. The 3.55s didn't seem t0o struggle to bad, I'm guessing the heaviest weight I pulled was 3500lbs between trailer and load. I don't do any wheeling, some mild trail running once in a blue moon so 4.10s don't seem necessary based on other threads I've researched here. Very interested in this thread.........

The hitch is for adding the sissy wheels when you load it so it doesn't do a wheel stand LOL

How did the bed look? I assume it's a long bed since it's an 86

Thanks. I couldn't see how it would make a difference, but you never know. Interesting that if you do a search of aftermarket parts for this, the OE style with the beveled outlet is only listed for HO years and newer, whereas this simpler design is listed for pre-91's. The OE style with the beveled outlet is much much easier to install/uninstall since the main outlet is off center, leaving a lot more room to work the lower bolt w/out having to loosen or remove your belt.

Had to replace the water outlet/tstat housing today. My question is, the stock unit that came off the truck has that beveled inlet as seen in the pic below, but the replacement that I put on today does not. I needed to get the truck driveable for now and everything seemed OK with a 30+ minute test drive including hwy and stop and go driving. I know there are replacements online that are the same as OE, but is there a major advantage to the OE design?

Pirate, I found the same thread recently and have just started running T6, anxious to see if there is any noticeable difference after 2-3 oil changes, although my MJ never has really burned oil. I also add B&G MOA to all my vehicles (since they currently are all over 100k) as it was recommended to me by both a shop I use and the european used car dealer I have bought my cars from for 13yrs. A few years ago my 2003 BMW 525 w/@165k on it at the time was burning a lot of oil and always had a nice puff of smoke under hard acceleration. After about 4 oil changes with a can of MOA, it had a very noticeable drop in oil consumption and all but a minor puff of smoke under WOT. Definitely a fan of MOA.

Pete, I'm confused. For as long as I can remember and the 10+ years I have been on here, I've always understood that 1) 0-3" lifts required no modifications to steering or driveline components, and 2) based on #1, WJ arms were also perfectly fine to "upgrade" to if the truck is lifted 0-3".

Heavily discussed topic on here. Do a search using "floor insulation", "sound insulation", "floor covering" etc..............LOTS of threads to read with lots of different products used and most definitely LOTS of different opinions LOL.

I seem to recall I've read on another thread here awhile ago that someone was able to get General Spring to custom build them a set of MT packs with an official 3" of lift. Worth a call I'd say. I highly doubt they have enough volume to have Comanche MT sets made up and sitting on a shelf and likely just make them "to order", so adding some arch may not be a big deal or more money. That said, the Hell Creek 3" & 4.5" lift springs are rated at 1440lb capacity with a 4+1 leaf setup, whereas the MT packs are rated at 1700lbs with a 3+2 spring pack. The load capacity on standard MJ replacement spring packs (no lift) from General Spring is rated at 1280lbs. Maybe the Hell Creek 4.5" packs are a compromise for you unless you routinely haul or tow heavy loads and need the full capacity MT packs offer. Link to 9yr old thread of similar discussion........

With the twist lock on the bulb base, it might be for behind the HVAC controls.