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91 Eliminator 83K miles refresh with NOS parts


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  • 2 weeks later...

About to turn attention to building axles.

LJ Rubicon needs 5:38 and 17” Black Magic BBK.

So XJ Chief D44 gets LSD and LJ’s 4:10’s and shafts.

Willys Utility Truck D27 gets new seals & Bendix self adjusting 12” drums swapped.  And rebuilt D53 LSD.

 

MJ getting rebuilt HP30 reverse rotation with Detroit True Trac and 4:10’’s and LJ’s unit bearings & 15” BBK.  Also Artec control arm mounts as original bolt holes feel sloppy.


All axles getting sand blasted and matte black powder coating.

 

After I get LJ back together will be lifting MJ :).  And while axles out will do Bosh fuel pump and fuel tank skid plate.

 

MJ getting a D44 & Detroit True Track.  THINK I want to retain the drums as keeping the foot emergency brake.  If anyone has first hand experience with rear disc and foot emergency brake working, please LMK.

XJ Drum  Backing plates are hard to find !!

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It would work fine. The foot brake has the same amount of throw as a handbrake. When I converted my first MJ from foot to hand it worked just fine. The drums are no different to what was on an XJ which didn't have the foot brake. The disk setup still uses drums for the park brake. 

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I agree with just getting a built axle. 1k is an awful lot for an old Dana 44 rear that, aside from being a factory original option, is not a massive upgrade. Kind of like the Jensen accussound speakers vs the plain ones (rarer and little better quality but there are much better components available now). The D44 can be a great upgrade in certain situations though. But now days, go for the D44 HD (read: 98+ Honda/Isuzu or JK and later wrangler) with the 8.9” ring gear and 3”+ tubes. Those are a much better upgrade than a stock xj/mj 44 imo. ECGS Can set you up with a bolt in axle using the HD44 center and larger tubes with the same 5x4.5 wheel pattern. I’d personally opt for 63” wms but that’s just me after seeing how that width looks on my rig. 

In regards to the drums vs disks, it depends what it’s used for. There is no doubt that full size drum brakes have significantly more shoe to drum contact area vs the tiny shoes in the drum inside the rotor hat. I hadn’t noticed the difference as much until I started launching heavy watercraft from steep ramps. The full sized drum brakes definitely have an advantage in this regard. Due to the pad contact area, it is harder to break the friction of a full size drum brake while used as a parking brake. One could also probably argue that it could serve as a better emergency brake in certain scenarios (though at a possible trade off of premature wheel lock). There are obvious drawbacks to drums though also, they do not disípate heat nearly as well, they have many small mechanical parts which can deteriorate quite quickly, they can trap moisture and debris easier as well. The transfer case mounted parking brakes are a neat option that will leverage the diff ratio in your favor but will technically only really lock one wheel with open diffs. 

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Going 3.5" and perfectly level stance.  Either 31 or 32 BFG KM3's.

 

Got Alcan metric ton leaf spring under which I understand is 3.5 to 4".

Metalcloak adjustable track bar and control arms and Metalcloak dual rate coils.

I have 3.5" dual rate coils from daughters XJ (it wasn't level with ARB rear springs with leaf removed) but will probably have buy 4.5 when add winch & brush guard.

 

I'm a HUGE fan of Metalcoak & their bushings so going use their weld in kit for front axle bushings.

 

NOS 28mm front sway bar.  TJ rear sway bar.

Raised sway bar mounts so the Currie Correct Link steering will fit.  Really like Currie's exaggerated bend at pitman arm as it compensates for lift and don't have ream the knucle's taper for won-ton steering

 

Still undecided on shocks, but definitely NOT Fox, they are too stiff. 

Bilstein look terrible quickly, although could clear coat them.

Got Falcon piggyback shocks for LJ (look incredible) but haven't installed them due to robbing axle & brake parts for MJ.

https://teraflex.com/tj-falcon-series-3-0-piggyback-shock-kit-3-4-lift.html

Been eyeing Metalcloaks Rocksport shocks as they are valved for TJ weight and are Red :)

https://metalcloak.com/rocksport-long-travel-shock-tj-wrangler-front-pair.html

Also have new takeoff JK shocks but think mount is different.

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Good list of parts there. I also ran MC control arms and dual rate springs and they were great. The correctlink is a great design as well and should allow for full articulation without binding. 
 

Have you given thought to accutune shocks? They have some off the shelf part numbers but they will custom tune shocks for you that really can’t be beat. The offer King, Fox and Bilstein. I’ve run bilstein several times too and they are also quite stiff with stock valving. Custom valving is where it’s at, especially the rebound valving. 

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Watched Accutune videos they give good explanations about shocks.  I didn’t see   any test machines for their changes.

 

Mostly wanting MJ to be nimble street driver & shop truck / small parts hauler.

Only planned off-road use of MJ is continue hunting & take load of corn for feeders.

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  • 2 weeks later...

weeks and rain stopped.

 

Spent 2 days making D44 axle naked and ready for paint.

I like to dehorn sharp edges and smooth welds & weld splatter.

 

HP D30 dropped off for sandblast to get ready for Atrec control arm mounts & Metalcloak bushings.  Tower and axle conversion.

 

 

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