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What is the most important tip you'd share with MJ owners?


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A loose track bar is almost always the cause of "death wobble"

 

Always torque your lugnuts back down to 100 ft/lbs before driving the Jeep and check them frequently. I've been in THREE Jeeps where the lugnuts loosened up during driving on the driver's side of the rear axle, always caught it before the wheel fell off though.

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always have a parts rig in your driveway..or 3.

My 89 4.0 Comanche has 343K and still runs like a top. 

Upgrade your ground cables!!!   Recommend doing the WJ/XJ brake booster conversion. It makes your stopping power so much more.   Replace the hard vacuum lines with rubber hoses of the same inside

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if your in the rust belt follow pete ms advice and

 

 

Pull up your carpets and check for rust before its too late!!!!!!!

and our mjs like to break the frame between the cab and box and at the front spring mount ive had experience

 

james :cheers:

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1. Lube the break release also, for it will break on you :oops:

 

2. Have the main windshield professionally sealed, water will leak on the inside into the floor boards and you will NEVER KNOW IT!!!

 

3. Have a long talk with your wife on what you're getting into, bring chocolates ;)

 

4. If you do your valve cover gasket when you first buy one, clean and paint it(it's an easy custom job that makes your MJ stand out) lol.

 

5. If your MJ has set for awhile check how clean the gas tank is, mine had junk in it that eventually ruind the fuel pump/line/system.

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:Canadaflag: Mark your TPS location on the throttle plate assembly, with like a knife mark. i accidentally knocked mine out of line 1/8th inch, and put my engine into WOT mode "wide open throttle", i spend approx 10 hours troubleshooting the problem.

ps i was shampooing the engine, to a showroom shine, i'm the original owner of a 88 mj 4.0 5 speed, 266kms

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Please please please....

 

If you are going to take apart your engine, take tonnes of photos. Hell, even if you don't use them, you might want to reflect on what a pain in the @$$ / fun time it was to take apart the engine. I have used mine so many times just to troubleshoot from a remote location. "Ohhhh! THATS how that was connected"

 

I know I know... I'm new here. Give me a chance. lol.

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Before replacing your thermostat, check and clean the contacts from the temp sender unit and while you're in there check and clean any other reachable electrical connections :thumbsup:

 

where are these parts located. i was going to replace thermostat today, (after i drilled a "burping" hole in it).

it was suggested by someone to get the air out of my coolant jamminz.gif

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1. When reinstalling your transmission, replace the two "stupid" bellhousing bolts (Top 2 male Torks) with real bolts.

 

2. If you have either of the fenders or doors off, use the opportunity to replace the female Torks in the door hinges with real metric bolts. This makes for super easy door removal or adjustments.

 

:typing:

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If your speedometer isn't working, check the cable and housing before you take your whole dash apart. The dash is a pain to remove. The cable is very easy to check and will save you lots of time.

 

Also invest the whole $1.50 into a fuse checker and don't take apart any lights before you know the fuse is good. New MJ's are very prone to have fuse damage, especially stick shifts.

 

Also... you can ruin a brand new pair of nikes if you don't catch your master cylinders leak soon enough... if your clutch stops doing things but doesnt lay down on the floor, you know its probobly your master cylinder and that means its probobly leaking all over your fuse box, carpet, and, alas, your nikes.

 

If your not shooting for a show quality jeep, don't PAY FOR SHOW QUALITY PARTS! so many people will go to the parts house and throw money at all these brand new parts, which you could easily substitute. for instance instead of tearing down my whole tilt stearing column to fix my windsheild wiper switch i just wired the motor to a three way switch and push button. now i have wiper fluid, both speeds of wipers, and most importantly it was cheaper and less time consuming.

 

USE YOUR BRAIN! don't always take everyones word for something. Think everything over. In the end it is YOUR vehicle and you should get what you want. don't let Johnny two by four tell you that everything your doing is worthless. If you know what your doing trust yourself, and if you don't then post it on this board. Two heads are better than one, especially when everyone on this site is a jeep enthusiast and always very helpfull :banana:

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If your speedometer isn't working, check the cable and housing before you take your whole dash apart. The dash is a pain to remove. The cable is very easy to check and will save you lots of time.

 

Also invest the whole $1.50 into a fuse checker and don't take apart any lights before you know the fuse is good. New MJ's are very prone to have fuse damage, especially stick shifts.

 

Also... you can ruin a brand new pair of nikes if you don't catch your master cylinders leak soon enough... if your clutch stops doing things but doesnt lay down on the floor, you know its probobly your master cylinder and that means its probobly leaking all over your fuse box, carpet, and, alas, your nikes.

 

If your not shooting for a show quality jeep, don't PAY FOR SHOW QUALITY PARTS! so many people will go to the parts house and throw money at all these brand new parts, which you could easily substitute. for instance instead of tearing down my whole tilt stearing column to fix my windsheild wiper switch i just wired the motor to a three way switch and push button. now i have wiper fluid, both speeds of wipers, and most importantly it was cheaper and less time consuming.

 

USE YOUR BRAIN! don't always take everyones word for something. Think everything over. In the end it is YOUR vehicle and you should get what you want. don't let Johnny two by four tell you that everything your doing is worthless. If you know what your doing trust yourself, and if you don't then post it on this board. Two heads are better than one, especially when everyone on this site is a jeep enthusiast and always very helpfull :banana:

ha ha johhny two by four........funny :rotf:

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A couple of guys had touched on the rust subject , this is the problem I had , to show how bad rust really is .

 

I have spent many years in body shops , restoring old cool stuff . Ran into rust problems all the time , so I bought a truck

with no rust . he he he :D sorry , I know I'm a @$$ ;)

 

However rust rust finds itself everywhere , if not treated FAST !

I wanted to show how little tiny bubbles , clear coat spots or blemishes in the paint can be little rust spots finding its way

deep into the metal .

 

Even if just the clear coat is pealed back at all , your metal is in trouble .

 

The uni-body cab of our trucks are so weak in areas , that there is not that much metal to save in the first place .

Once its in there , you got to get it out quick !

 

This is a major area for allot of vehicles to have a problem . This is what I did , for now anyway .

 

The top of the cab had areas where the clear coat was peeling , no big deal , RIGHT ?

 

If the metal at the top of the cab gets bad , it will eat its way into your pinchwelds and door jams and such .

Causing very expensive and time consuming repairs . Not to mention , getting water in the cab !

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.

 

#2 - If it won't start check the CPS (crankshaft position sensor) first.

 

 

AMEN a can of carb cleaner of brake cleaner is good to carry with you if you have a leaky rear main seal oil gets on the flywheel pickups and causes a late start, long cranking, or no start at all. a shot of spray in the sensor hole and it will be brand new

 

oh yeah change your rear main seal its not that hard messy but not hard at all takes 2hours

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*Carry a small plastic pry bar with you (won't mar the paint)

 

Sometimes our hood latches don't let go on both sides. Have a buddy pop the hood while you pry the side that doesn't open. Then get some lithium grease and spray the crap out of it

 

* Having the wife/girlfriend help now and then will make it easier to convince her that project really IS worth the money :thumbsup:

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:waving: this is my first time in this forum sorry if my english isnt that good I'm from mexico i saw this pic of a comanche with this conversion of a grand cherokee i was wondering which grand cherokees front does it fit on my 88 comanche thank you

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