Shandley

Well, it's been a fun ride.... and the ride continues! She was parked for... wow 8 years but she's home now! Time to get dirty again! With a new born and a wedding to plan, I'm going to be a bit spacey on updates but I won't leave it for 8 years again. I believe I was going to replace the EGR valve next. :) Time to go shopping!

Well, there it is.... except, I was writing my first post from (a very poor) memory annnnd I believe it is the rear bearings I am trying to replace... not the front. I'm very sorry. Any ideas on the rear bearings?

Greetings to all!! My baby is just about ready to roll.... however, it's been sitting so long that the front wheels won't spin freely. With some effort, I am able to spin them. I took off the tire and the brake caliper as well as the disc and tried to spin it. No go. So my next thought was bearings.... but wait a minute.... How.... w... my bearing "cap" is strange. It's not a cap at all. It looks inset with a couple tabs. How do you remove the cap that is there to replace the wheel bearings? Thanks!

Ok, my machine is running pretty good now (aside from needing a new egr). I had to move 'er the other day. I got it, fired 'er up and when to drive away. I pressed on the gas and moved forward. When I took my foot off, the throttle stayed in that spot. During the hi revs, I went with it and moved my vehicle. I also noticed that if I press the pedal past that point, it will reluctanly and slowly return to the hi idle position (about 2000 rpm). I sprayed WD-40 onto the linkage on the throttle body and tried to spray down the throttle cable sleeve but it still sticks. About a month ago, it seemed to be working fine. Any insight to this one?

What does the exhaust smell like? Mine was very smokey (couldn't tell out of the pipe but in the underground parking, it filled the place with a blue hue within 3 min of running. I would highly suggest replacing or try cleaning the EGR valve or at least make sure all of the vacuum hoses are correct. Mine was like night and day after I did that. My O2 sensor came in yesterday along with new wires. I will be putting them on tonight. I know my TPS is shot and I have one coming in. Mine does run much better but it was running perfect after I cleaned the EGR and made sure it held a vacuum. It ran like new. I suspect the carb cleaner I had in the valve ate away at the light oil I put on the shaft and it's getting stuck. We'll see I guess. I'm just glad this is a project vehicle and not my daily driver.

That's great! Congrats on keeping the rare. Say, how does water get into the tank?

Nope! It's not something for me to do.

Much thanks to all!

Ok, now that I am righteously confused, can I put an XJ windshield, any years or either between 1986 and 2001, or any MJ 1986-1992 into my MJ?

Thanks.... So is 86-92 correct?

Ok thanks... but what years?

What years of which vehicles would have a replacement windshield for a 1990 MJ?

Thanks for the reply. I'm not really concerned about the gas mileage but the aircare I am worried about.

And sure enough, 5x114.3 it is! Thanks!

Much thanks! The ad says 5x114.3. I assume those are what wheels we'll have on our MJs.

Will these types of Rims fit our MJ? I found a smoking deal for some winter rims.

Is it... *GULP*... easy to do? When I first started my truck after about 5 years of sitting, I noticed pieces of rust firing out the tail pipe (there is a straight pipe with a cat, no muffler). Mind you it took a bit for it to start coming, it's not coming out anymore, and there is still a good amount of exhaust coming out... think it's worth it?

How much pressure should be coming out of the tail pipe? I guess what I am asking is how do we know if our cat's are plugged?

There are lots and lots of things that can cause studdering in our wonderful trucks. You have black stuff coming out of the tank. That'll be a problem. lol. One other good thing to check. Make sure your EGR valve is good. Go buy a new gasket for it (cheap) and pull it off. It's 2 half inch bolts. Take the EGR valve upside down and push on the inside metal part. It should move pretty freely with about 10 lbs of pressure. Push it all the way down and watch it come back to the seating place. If it stops or stumbles, you are due for a new one. If it doesn't go all the way closed, you are due for a new one. A good temp solution if either one of these things are happening: Carb cleaner all over it. Move the diaphragm in and out over an over. More carb cleaner. Then clean out around little shaft at the seating area where the diaphragm closes completely. Clean it well but don't score the shaft. When it is all cleaned, dry it off as best as you can. Blow it out with compressed air if you can. Then add some light oil onto the shaft and move it in and out. This fixed mine... for a while. Mine would studder sometimes because the diaphragm was getting caught on the shaft due to some carbon build up. It ran like a dream after I cleaned it. Also, check your hoses CAREFULLY according to a vacuum diagram. Make sure everything is 100% Yes, I know. Not exactly relative to this post but it's easily over looked. The timing chain is notorious for stretching. Take a timing light and see if the timing mark jumps around. OR, take the distributor CAP off and take a reamer bar with the appropriate socket and turn the crank shaft back and forth (not too far... going back can hurt the engine... so I am told). The rotor should move pretty much exactly with the movement of the crank shaft. If it is delayed, you probably have a timing issue. How is your idle? Is it rough or smooth? How does the truck perform while moving off in first? Does it feel like it is going to stall out on you?

I had a leaky rear seal in my tranny because of a worn universal joint in my drive shaft. About an hours work and I had a much smoother ride and no leaks. Later on that year, I had a main seal on my engine go. That required pulling the tranny but while it was out, I did the front seal of the tranny as well as the main on my engine. The rear tranny seal is a breeze!

Hey jpnjim, Why didn't you buy the one with big tires? :brows: :D :rotf: $150 for a fuel tank??? Jeez man, I'm moving to the states whenever I have vehicle trouble.

It all depends on what you mean by DVOM. If you mean a digital multimeter, then yes. If you mean one that will measure voltage and resistance at the same time, nope. Of course, when checking the resistance, the power should be off anyways. lol It would be really helpful if you could get a reading or two for me tomorrow. Much Thanks!

Pardon my noob-ness, but what's an FSM?

Well, you will all be happy to know that our trucks are now one less rare. I fixed it! As it goes, it was a few things. THe EGR moved fine but carbon built up on the bottom of it and it was open just a bit. I cleaned it up and lubed up the shaft. If it wasn't that, it was something else completely... that of which I have no clue. Remember when I said the vacuum lines were ok? Turns out, even though I checked it over and over, one was swapped. I knew I should have blown up the vacuum hose drawing in my Haynes. Well, there you have it. I ended up borrowing a DRB-II scanner and it shows that my O2 sensor might be bad. GOod news, one is coming in for me. My TPS is also on the fritz. I only get about 11% max on the readings. I am told I should get around 75%. Maybe I am missing something but the voltmeter readings were low too. I have one of those coming in as well. She runs smooth now. Smoother than ever. I want to thank you all for your help! Now for the aesthetics. :)

It SEEMS to check out. Thanks!