500 MJ Posted August 24, 2009 Share Posted August 24, 2009 A loose track bar is almost always the cause of "death wobble" Always torque your lugnuts back down to 100 ft/lbs before driving the Jeep and check them frequently. I've been in THREE Jeeps where the lugnuts loosened up during driving on the driver's side of the rear axle, always caught it before the wheel fell off though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigalpha Posted September 1, 2009 Share Posted September 1, 2009 Before you assume your pillar lights don't work, make sure the bezel is rotated into place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freakjeep93 Posted September 3, 2009 Share Posted September 3, 2009 if your in the rust belt follow pete ms advice and Pull up your carpets and check for rust before its too late!!!!!!! and our mjs like to break the frame between the cab and box and at the front spring mount ive had experience james :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted September 3, 2009 Share Posted September 3, 2009 :agree: I have seen a video of one breaking in half, and I've seen two of them like that sitting in junk yards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64 Cheyenne Posted September 27, 2009 Share Posted September 27, 2009 If you have the tranny/tc out,put them back in as a single unit. The top 2 bolts holding the tc to the tranny are a real PITA to install with the tranny in the truck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigalpha Posted October 9, 2009 Share Posted October 9, 2009 If your front blinkers are giving you trouble, it's probably the rusted out ground tab on the sockets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MancheKid86 Posted October 29, 2009 Share Posted October 29, 2009 buy a new clutch, make sure you put your old clutch plate onto the new pressure plate to make sure its the right one Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
case5412 Posted November 1, 2009 Share Posted November 1, 2009 1. Lube the break release also, for it will break on you :oops: 2. Have the main windshield professionally sealed, water will leak on the inside into the floor boards and you will NEVER KNOW IT!!! 3. Have a long talk with your wife on what you're getting into, bring chocolates ;) 4. If you do your valve cover gasket when you first buy one, clean and paint it(it's an easy custom job that makes your MJ stand out) lol. 5. If your MJ has set for awhile check how clean the gas tank is, mine had junk in it that eventually ruind the fuel pump/line/system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
case5412 Posted November 4, 2009 Share Posted November 4, 2009 Also the stock battery cable have a 1/4 inch wide by a 1 1/2 inch long hex head bolt w/ hex nut. They won't sell them at most auto parts stores, but Lowes does, hehe. :popcorn: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg Posted November 13, 2009 Share Posted November 13, 2009 :Canadaflag: Mark your TPS location on the throttle plate assembly, with like a knife mark. i accidentally knocked mine out of line 1/8th inch, and put my engine into WOT mode "wide open throttle", i spend approx 10 hours troubleshooting the problem. ps i was shampooing the engine, to a showroom shine, i'm the original owner of a 88 mj 4.0 5 speed, 266kms Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shandley Posted November 27, 2009 Share Posted November 27, 2009 Please please please.... If you are going to take apart your engine, take tonnes of photos. Hell, even if you don't use them, you might want to reflect on what a pain in the @$$ / fun time it was to take apart the engine. I have used mine so many times just to troubleshoot from a remote location. "Ohhhh! THATS how that was connected" I know I know... I'm new here. Give me a chance. lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freakjeep93 Posted November 27, 2009 Share Posted November 27, 2009 it is a good idea but with so many engines that fit our mjs wouldnt it be easier to go and get another engine.(unless youw were doing a numbers matching resto) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STERLING STINGER Posted December 16, 2009 Share Posted December 16, 2009 Before replacing your thermostat, check and clean the contacts from the temp sender unit and while you're in there check and clean any other reachable electrical connections :thumbsup: where are these parts located. i was going to replace thermostat today, (after i drilled a "burping" hole in it). it was suggested by someone to get the air out of my coolant Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64 Cheyenne Posted December 28, 2009 Share Posted December 28, 2009 1. When reinstalling your transmission, replace the two "stupid" bellhousing bolts (Top 2 male Torks) with real bolts. 2. If you have either of the fenders or doors off, use the opportunity to replace the female Torks in the door hinges with real metric bolts. This makes for super easy door removal or adjustments. :typing: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squeegy410 Posted January 18, 2010 Share Posted January 18, 2010 If your speedometer isn't working, check the cable and housing before you take your whole dash apart. The dash is a pain to remove. The cable is very easy to check and will save you lots of time. Also invest the whole $1.50 into a fuse checker and don't take apart any lights before you know the fuse is good. New MJ's are very prone to have fuse damage, especially stick shifts. Also... you can ruin a brand new pair of nikes if you don't catch your master cylinders leak soon enough... if your clutch stops doing things but doesnt lay down on the floor, you know its probobly your master cylinder and that means its probobly leaking all over your fuse box, carpet, and, alas, your nikes. If your not shooting for a show quality jeep, don't PAY FOR SHOW QUALITY PARTS! so many people will go to the parts house and throw money at all these brand new parts, which you could easily substitute. for instance instead of tearing down my whole tilt stearing column to fix my windsheild wiper switch i just wired the motor to a three way switch and push button. now i have wiper fluid, both speeds of wipers, and most importantly it was cheaper and less time consuming. USE YOUR BRAIN! don't always take everyones word for something. Think everything over. In the end it is YOUR vehicle and you should get what you want. don't let Johnny two by four tell you that everything your doing is worthless. If you know what your doing trust yourself, and if you don't then post it on this board. Two heads are better than one, especially when everyone on this site is a jeep enthusiast and always very helpfull :banana: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Celtic Comanche Posted January 18, 2010 Share Posted January 18, 2010 Before you assume your pillar lights don't work, make sure the bezel is rotated into place. This is too funny, I was just about to post a question about those damn things! Yup, they seem to work just fine... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STERLING STINGER Posted January 19, 2010 Share Posted January 19, 2010 If your speedometer isn't working, check the cable and housing before you take your whole dash apart. The dash is a pain to remove. The cable is very easy to check and will save you lots of time. Also invest the whole $1.50 into a fuse checker and don't take apart any lights before you know the fuse is good. New MJ's are very prone to have fuse damage, especially stick shifts. Also... you can ruin a brand new pair of nikes if you don't catch your master cylinders leak soon enough... if your clutch stops doing things but doesnt lay down on the floor, you know its probobly your master cylinder and that means its probobly leaking all over your fuse box, carpet, and, alas, your nikes. If your not shooting for a show quality jeep, don't PAY FOR SHOW QUALITY PARTS! so many people will go to the parts house and throw money at all these brand new parts, which you could easily substitute. for instance instead of tearing down my whole tilt stearing column to fix my windsheild wiper switch i just wired the motor to a three way switch and push button. now i have wiper fluid, both speeds of wipers, and most importantly it was cheaper and less time consuming. USE YOUR BRAIN! don't always take everyones word for something. Think everything over. In the end it is YOUR vehicle and you should get what you want. don't let Johnny two by four tell you that everything your doing is worthless. If you know what your doing trust yourself, and if you don't then post it on this board. Two heads are better than one, especially when everyone on this site is a jeep enthusiast and always very helpfull :banana: ha ha johhny two by four........funny :rotf: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJM/78 Posted January 19, 2010 Share Posted January 19, 2010 A couple of guys had touched on the rust subject , this is the problem I had , to show how bad rust really is . I have spent many years in body shops , restoring old cool stuff . Ran into rust problems all the time , so I bought a truck with no rust . he he he :D sorry , I know I'm a @$$ ;) However rust rust finds itself everywhere , if not treated FAST ! I wanted to show how little tiny bubbles , clear coat spots or blemishes in the paint can be little rust spots finding its way deep into the metal . Even if just the clear coat is pealed back at all , your metal is in trouble . The uni-body cab of our trucks are so weak in areas , that there is not that much metal to save in the first place . Once its in there , you got to get it out quick ! This is a major area for allot of vehicles to have a problem . This is what I did , for now anyway . The top of the cab had areas where the clear coat was peeling , no big deal , RIGHT ? If the metal at the top of the cab gets bad , it will eat its way into your pinchwelds and door jams and such . Causing very expensive and time consuming repairs . Not to mention , getting water in the cab ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
one_bad_MJ Posted January 31, 2010 Share Posted January 31, 2010 . #2 - If it won't start check the CPS (crankshaft position sensor) first. AMEN a can of carb cleaner of brake cleaner is good to carry with you if you have a leaky rear main seal oil gets on the flywheel pickups and causes a late start, long cranking, or no start at all. a shot of spray in the sensor hole and it will be brand new oh yeah change your rear main seal its not that hard messy but not hard at all takes 2hours Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1987Comanche Posted February 5, 2010 Share Posted February 5, 2010 1. Grab the HO thermostat housing for your Renix era 4.0. The CTS makes a great bleeder screw. 2. Get the Renix era 2.5 idle speed controller and fuel injector if you have a chance. Either of these parts is ridiculously expensive if you have to buy it new. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
one_bad_MJ Posted February 6, 2010 Share Posted February 6, 2010 *Jeeps will potentially consume all of your excess money. *Your wife/girlfriend will get pissed because you work on your Jeep to much. the truth Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJ is dead Posted February 24, 2010 Share Posted February 24, 2010 *Carry a small plastic pry bar with you (won't mar the paint) Sometimes our hood latches don't let go on both sides. Have a buddy pop the hood while you pry the side that doesn't open. Then get some lithium grease and spray the crap out of it * Having the wife/girlfriend help now and then will make it easier to convince her that project really IS worth the money :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMC-MJ Posted February 27, 2010 Share Posted February 27, 2010 :dunno: Sell it before you break it :dunno: Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reyes Posted February 27, 2010 Share Posted February 27, 2010 :waving: this is my first time in this forum sorry if my english isnt that good I'm from mexico i saw this pic of a comanche with this conversion of a grand cherokee i was wondering which grand cherokees front does it fit on my 88 comanche thank you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted February 27, 2010 Author Share Posted February 27, 2010 Welcome! :waving: That wasn't a grand cherokee. It was front end pieces from the Chinese version of the cherokee. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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