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Okay so my search hasn't exactly been the most fruitful of the following question. What are the dimensions of a Renix 4.0 TPS bolt and IAC bolt? I wanted to replace the bolts because I lost one, the other TPC bolt started stripping at the torx head, and the IAC bolts somehow have a triangular shape to the shaft. On a whim yesterday, I took the TPS bolt to the hardware store, and it seemed to match with an M5, but the M5s that I took home seem too big. Today I returned and noticed that the TPS bolt will thread into both the M5 and the 10-32 gauges. But when I compare the bolt to what they have, it seems the threads don't sawtooth together with the 10-32 bolts. Or maybe it was 8-32, heck I dunno, I've got so many numbers already to memorize... The IAC looks to have a larger diameter shaft. '89 4.0 Renix, by the way.

Alright, I think I'm in the twilight zone. I have an '89 Pioneer short bed. The decals are pretty badly damaged and partially missing on one side and I'm looking for identical replacements. All of the sites I've found selling replacement decals for the 89 Pioneers including MoparPartsGiant.com list 3 variants: Silver/Charcoal (also called Light/Dark Silver) Lite/Dark Maroon (also called Red/Dark Red) Lite/Dark Tan After a quick look at my truck and not seeing any maroon or tan, I figured the only option I was left with was "Silver/Charcoal". I went ahead and ordered the "Silver/Charcoal" option from Phoenix Graphix. And after a quick glance at the stock photo on that site I was pretty sure the silver option was the right one. Here's the weird part. The decals on my truck are very clearly black and silver: The black I could be convinced to be "charcoal" but the decals I got are not even close. Definitely more of a light/dark silver. I peeled back the transfer film all the way to the darker stripe above the E E R to reveal the actual color and it's still very clearly not a match to what's on the truck. Here's the next weird part. I'm not really able to find any pictures of other Pioneer Comanches with black Jeep lettering on the tailgate or black and silver stripes exactly like mine. They all seem to match the silver decals that I got. After another look at the stock photo I noticed the lettering on the tailgate and the "Pioneer" is silver, not black. I even found the original photo that a bunch of sites use as the "stock" photo. You can tell it's the original as the "stock" photos have the matching dent in the back corner, the bumper is photoshopped to be somewhat straight and painted, and the top of a propane tank is usually visible in the bed. Not to mention the tires. (This guy's jeep is famous and he probably doesn't even know it) OG: Stock: Here is a side-on shot of these "Silver/Charcoal" decals on other trucks. These pictures match the decals I got but definitely don't match mine. Quick check of my build sheet wasn't terribly helpful and I think the relevant things are here: -SA Charcoal APA MONOTONE PAINT PWB WHITE PRIMARY PAINT - HWB QWB WHITE SECONDARY PAINT - HWB So here are the questions: What color option do I have? Are the decals on this truck custom made to possibly replace the old silver/dark silver? Why can't I find any other pioneers with black and silver stripes? Does anyone else have stripes that match mine? WHAT IS GOING ON HERE!?

This guys selling 2 parts Comanches together. Looks like there could be a lot of good stuff with this deal. I would pick up if I owned a house, a trailer, and the money https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1833288673724481/?mibextid=dXMIcH

So I was browsing the interwebs for Comanche's as we all do and I found this blue 89 4.0 manual with a visor, and it is very sad as the condition of the truck now reflects bad events having happened to it. at least the cab corners and rockers look salvageable to save another Comanche but i honestly couldn't imagine this as not a parts truck https://www.copart.com/lot/45346291/clean-title-1989-jeep-comanche-pioneer-tn-memphis

Please help, I've got engine oil in clutch reservoir (?) I recently became a proud owner of a 4WD 89 Comanche 4.0 paired to a Peugeot transmission, but the previous owner lost the clutch while delivering it to my house, making clutch-less shifts. We added fluid to the master cylinder reservoir, pumped the clutch, and the fluid turned black. Now the clutch has some pressure, but quickly loses it as it drips from where the rear main seal would be. The seller mentioned that the rear-main seal was most likely bad, and it explained the oil leak that I saw when I test drove it. The master cylinder doesn't seem to be leaking, nor does the line leading to the internally located slave cylinder. The engine oil is pitch black and very low. My best guess is that the slave cylinder blew and is ingesting oil from the rear-main seal leak? Has anyone encountered this? I tried to find videos on how to replace the slave cylinder when it's internally mounted, but had no luck. I wanted to get it running myself so I could plan out what the build would be, but now I'm wondering if I should send it out, swap to an AX15, replace the clutch, and convert to an external slave cylinder. Any advice is much appreciated

89' Jeep Comanche 2WD, automatic transmission with Overdrive, cold A/C, Does 22-23 MPG, comes with original factory topper, in good condition, owned by a gentle old man. Please call 785 201 5284 for any questions.

I have been putting this off for a long time but have a lot of free time today so I'll go ahead and post this up. I got my truck in the summer of 2011. She is a 1989 Comanche Pioneer,4.0, 2wd, d35, auto on the column, with about 280000 miles on it. I really am just guessing about that mileage because the guy I bought it from at a pseudo car lot, really it was just a garage with cars out front, said the gauge cluster had been replaced and it actually had 140k miles on it rather than the near 240k the clock was showing. I was inclined to believe him because it ran very well, but then I realized ho hard it would have been to find a cluster with the shift indicator installed and other factors so I think the guy was full of sh*t. Back to the main event.... I've had the truck ever since and have done numerous things to it such as: New hoses Alternator Radiator Grill Fogs Temp gauge Bumper Tailgate Recovered seat Valve cover Wrecked it Replaced sheet metal after wreck 97+ nose New bed Head gasket Paint Numerous oil changes and plugs etc Open cooling system conversion Added an inverter Horns Power windows/locks Jeepsticker decals Remote start, with remote locks And a bunch of other stuff I know I'm forgetting. It has always been fun but I have had a few stumbles along the way. Hopefully the next post with all the pigs will paint a better picture that this one.

So last July I bought a house and as an incentive he was going to include his broken down 89 Comanche.(I was going to buy it regardless but I like small trucks always like the 4.0) Anyways what I got is a 89 2WD 4.0 Manual truck. I would like to get it up and running first and then maybe do a 4WD conversion and keep it a stick. I might do a slight 2-4 inch raise seeing as it'll be a trail/dump runner so need to keep it street legal. I have a little automotive experience but not much in the ways of axels/transmissions and such. I did it get where I can drive it. Had to replace bad starter and bad and wrong battery (probably what fried the starter). So it cranks every time now. I do have an issue on occasion with the transmission not wanting to go into gear opinions? Also I have a brake issue they work but the pedal is pretty much at the firewall and it isn't the quickest response. I tried bleeding them but no air bubbles and passenger front has a stripped bleeder screw that I will have to deal with as well. The brake fluid has not dropped so I don't think there is a leak but again not sure. Also runs a bit hot after shut off I heard this is common and only real way to fix is to convert to open system (already replaced tank, pump, and thermostat, helped a lot) Any help would be greatly appreciated also I will post pictures and video of it running as soon as I get home.

Hello friends. Jess here from Placerville, CA. I've been lurking around here for several years and have been so grateful to have such a fantastic resource. You guys rock! I can only hope to one day return the favor and give useful advice to someone in need. I don't have the technical knowledge many of you have and this certainly won't be the end-all AX15 swap thread but I figured I share my experience and if it helped someone out, awesome! First of all, there is a lot of posts about the AX15 - If you can't find what you need here on CC there is a lot of other AX15 swap threads out there, I found this thread on naxja particularly useful. I also picked up a FSM from Pacific Coast Manuals. Best $7.95 I think I could have spent, especially when it came to finding torque specs. Another good resource for parts if you're in the Sacramento area is J&W Auto Wreckers - I find their prices are a tad on the high side (basically double of most Pick & Pull parts) but they appear to have pretty much everything, including the AX15 bracket which was difficult to find and you don't have to bring your tools and roll around in broken glass. So, I have a 1989 MJ which of course had a Peugeot BA10/5 with the NP231. The internal bearings went and my second gear synchros have been out since I got the truck 6-7 years ago. The repair shop (I tried several, price always the same) wanted $850 to repair the bearings/synchros. I've always wanted to swap for an AX15 but never really had a reason until now. I found one out of a 91 Cherokee with 150k miles in a wrecking yard for $500 with the bellhousing and another $200 for the factory mated NP231. I probably could have swapped the input shaft for a little less, but honestly it was taking so long already I figured it was worth it to get the new one and go. Dropping the Trans: Having the right tools for the job would have made this much easier. Unfortunately we had none of those. If you don't either, I'd recommend renting or borrowing a transmission jack. It was always my plan to do that but my Dad and I backyard mechanic'd it pretty good instead. Our jack died recently, so we borrowed a neighbors which is hilariously tiny for removing a transmission. We used it pretty much for the wheels only. What we did was place a strong steel pipe above the trans tunnel/shifter hole and wrapped a large ratchet strap around the pipe and transmission. This supported it and allowed us to guide the transmission back out of the pilot bearing. Another thing that helps which we didn't have is level ground. Our driveway has a slant to it so we decided to park the truck facing down, which meant pulling the transmission uphill to remove it. I attached a strap from the jack to the rear bumper and a second from the t-case to the bumper, ratcheting both at the same time to back the trans out. It would have worked beautifully except we forgot one of those small bolts at the top of the bellhousing :( Once we got that it it popped right out, go figure. :dunno: We basically used the same strategy to reinstall the AX15, we took the t-case off and used two straps from that same pipe to raise the AX15 up and guide it in. It's not a perfect alignment, there's definitely some precarious finagling but it worked. Yep, zipties. A third strap was added to the axle of the jack to pull it and the trans back simultaneously. Bracket/Mount: My biggest unknown was the mount vs bracket. As I mentioned above I found the "bracket" to be rather elusive. I read several posts where people said they used the Peugeot crossmember with the AX15 mount and it was fine - but since the AX15 mount lacks the catalytic converter support arm I wasn't really sure how that was possible without fabrication work which I don't have the tools to do. If you cannot find the bracket or fab your own, you might try this AX15 Crossmember Mount Kit from Advance Adapters. They told me it would work fine in Comanches but considering the cost difference between having to replace the Peugeot mount vs AX15 mount I decided to try harder to find the bracket. Which I did find for $30 at J&W Auto Wreckers. Top left: AX15 "mount". Bottom left: AX15 support bracket. Right: Peugeot mount. Crossmember: To save myself $70 for an AX15 crossmember I used my original Peugeot one. Since the AX15 has that little dip in it I decided to get some longer bolts and use heavy nuts as spacers to allow the AX15 to sit properly. The crossmember had to be moved to the rear set of holes on the body, which meant taking a sawzall to one of the studs as I couldn't get it out with the other tools I had. Some of the original holes threaded fine, but three of them needed to be chased (10x1.5). Here you can see the nut spacers and new bolts. Transfer Case Linkage: I read several posts where people said you can flip the bracket which bolts to the transmission and make the Peugeot linkage work with the AX15. We popped it out and flipped it, the problem was by flipping it I took it to mean - removing it and plugging it into the same hole from the reverse side. We couldn't make that work at all. So we tried flipping it the other way, plugging it into the smaller hole on the other side of the bracket and bolting the grommet side to the transmission. After some finessing I was able to get it to work - it probably won't last forever but you know, it was free. Reverse Switch: I just cut the connectors off both the AX15 end and the Peugeot end and used quick disconnect connectors. I was out of shrink tube so I wrapped it all up in electrical tape. While I was at it: I had an oil leak so I changed the oil pan gasket, which thanks to advice on a thread I posted it was easy to remove the oil pan without the transmission in. I went ahead and replace the rear main oil seal and the oil pump as well. Conclusion: So glad it's done and I love this thing. I love the way the shifter feels and I think it's a lot quieter. Also huge bonus, I can use second gear lol. I'm so used to having to baby second gear that I still flinch when I shift, anticipating gears grinding. It's not all perfect though - there is an oil leak someplace. It seems to be coming from inside the bellhousing which is making me think the seal on the transmission is bad. I used Mobil-1 10w30 in the AX15 per some recommendations so I can't tell the difference between it and engine oil. It could also be the rear main seal which would also totally suck because that was a huge pain to change. Reverse gear is being a pain to shift into as well, we may need to bleed the clutch again, or something could be going on - I dunno. Right now I'm just happy it's running :yes: Jess

Alright so I just got a 89 Comanche 4.0 5spd 2wd. been working on getting everything going so I can get it on the road and on to being my DD. Wasn't running when I got it and Cruiser54s tips helped tremendously in getting it going, so thank you for that. I'm now on to getting all the lights to work. The person that had it before did an AX15 swap but did not bother to wire up the reverse switch. so i'm needing a little help with the wire colors and locations to get it going. I've tried searching around to find the right diagram but seem to be getting conflicting answers. when I probe the connector that I thought was the body side of the switch connection I get a hot wire but no matter what combination of wires I twist together I can't get the reverse lights to come on. So any information would be helpful. Thanks in advance

I was wondering which fuel pump, and filter to get for my 1989 Jeep Comanche 4.0l i6. I was looking at some on rock auto but wasn't sure which one would fit and be good to go rather then having to modify any wires. Thanks for the help!

pic updates 4/17/14 New http://comancheclub.com/topic/41707-my-89-comanche-project/?p=434564 2/16/14 http://comancheclub.com/topic/41707-my-89-comanche-project/?p=426058 2/14/14 http://comancheclub.com/topic/41707-my-89-comanche-project/?p=425645 1/25/14 http://comancheclub.com/topic/41707-my-89-comanche-project/?do=findComment&comment=422431 I've had this jeep since I was young. It used to run really great but over time and lack of TLC it became a driveway ornament for 6 plus years. Its been sometime since I originally meant to make this post because I was waiting for the email validation. I'll leave you with some pics of the truck with very little that I've done to it to compare and contrast, and tomorrow morning I'll go outside and take new photos of what I have been real busy with. I just wish I had taken more pictures before I started! Now I present you with the Jeep! Exterior photos taken a couple months before the engine ones which were taken last week. Cleaned the engine bay up with a brush Checked inside the valve cover after this photo, rockers were all tight and no sign of any coolant leakage or any discoloring. Just a bad gasket.. After all these photos were taken I really went to town. Took the old cracked serpentine belt off. Replaced the rusted non grooved Idler and Power steering pullies with new grooved ones. Brand new belt and good quality. New FEL PRO Gasket Set for Valve cover Replaced the corroded and rusted water outlet and thermostat with new ones and gaskets. Will have new photos tomorrow! To Do(for now anyway) Check Alternator Charge - replace if needed New battery New interior ambient lights New drivers side lock mechanism Right Rear wheel hub has a broken Lug bolt and needs to be looked at. ( could use tips ) New wheels and tires Some misc stuff I am trying to find a correct way to get all the old coolant stuff out of my radiator, I already have all the hoses off the water outlet and coolant container, and the power steering pump is still lowered so I have access to that area. I plan to drain the old oil of course and put new oil in it aswell as a seafoam run to clean everything. Theres an old hose I pulled off the lower intake manifold area thats hooking into the bottom of the airfilter. Whats that hose called? I need to replace it very bad, as it crumbled to dust when I moved it once. Final Thoughts This is my first ever automotive project, I have taken the time to read and watch videos and buy the haynes book for my model jeep. hands on only came after I had confidence I wouldn't mess anything up. So any tips , tricks would be nice because I'm really enthusiastic about this Jeep and plan to have fun building it and driving it for many years to come. Unless someone offers me a million dollars for it of course.

I was on this forum before, my e-mail site was closed, so I started over. >> ron@nw-offroad.com I know my MJ is UGLY, but I'm a "real off-road'er" dents and paint don't make it GO. Naches Washington > > 4th of July Naches Washington > Waterfall Brown's Camp Oregon > > > Over the top > Canopener Oregon > > > > slippery rocks > > Made It > Coming Down - Rocky Uphill > > > > > It just goes every-where I point it.! Ron

Hey guys I have a 2wd long box 4.0 with the poopy peugot 5 spd, I want to convert to 4wd , I have a donor 89 4x4 4.0l with the crappy tranny as well. Just wondering if the trans case from the 4x4 will bolt onto the 2wd?

Hey Hey guys I am back after an absence of a couple years. I have found another Comanche, in much better condition than my current one, that is being used to hold down 4 patches of dirt under its tires haha. Any ways this one will be mine as of tmrw! Plans in the works/pipe dreams are to swap in a 4wd system, a new back bumper, new front bumper, lights, some stereo equip, lights, random tweaking of stuff lol. For the 4wd swap I will have to check out what my tranny is and compatibility issues and model and what I will have to get for the swap. After the 4wd is in I want to put a bit bigger tires on, but this is going to be a "capable utility truck" so 98% on road. So that means Extremely light new front bumper and rear, thinking building my own custom tube bumper? Anyone have experience with that? If I feel really rich I may be inclined to throw some lockers in depending on what I will be riding on for axles. Floor boards are clean frame is clean, somewhere along the lines this has had a undercoating sprayed on it, corner cab surface rust starting, I will deal with that immediately. Bench Seat is coming out, getting some buckets from somewhere not sure yet, I felt like I was going to sink while I was Test Driving it. Has an aftermarket exhaust system that sounds awesome :P All in all this is probably the cleanest Comanche I have ever seen this far north the price tag was $2000 Canadian, it may seem steep but I see more corvettes up here than I do Comanches as most have long ago rotted away.

go out to start my red jeep keep cranking it no start. check for fuel, spark and compression. have fuel, spark is weak, and low compression 1 ,2,3.having the coil and ICM check out tomarrow, but beside that what could be my issue? :hmm: 125K on the moter.

Hey guys, I am finishing up a engine & transmission swap with a 87 i6 with a 2wd aw4 that went into into an 89 lwb mj that originally had a ba10. I can see that my old driveshaft is too long to use now. The Aw4 is longer than the ba10. Can anyone tell me the difference in length between lwb automatic aw4 and lwb manual ba10 driveshafts? :hmm: :dunno: :hmm: Any help would be greatly appreciated.