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Foffett

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  1. I hope it is the same part: There are way too many variables in the production process for 3d printing, and oem will always be more reliable. At the very least, it was a really good exercise for me, and I learned things that I can apply to my work.
  2. For anyone looking to print or modify the model that I created from Pete's clip https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4766516 @Dzimm
  3. @Dzimm I created a few models of these in ABS, PLA, and Nylon. Id be more than happy to forward my models. I recommend Nylon or figuring out a better material for the reasons below. (New thought: You might be able to combine a pla/abs print with a rubber washer??) The clip really relies on the flexing of the thin head to lock the clip in place and to not rattle loose while running. The PLA and ABS prints I made tended to crack before flexing properly. I also played around with annealing the prints after, but that creates other chalanges (I highly recommend looking into annealed PLA for rigidity). The closest I got to a useable and repeatable model was using nylon filament (Dremel brand, stored in an airtight container and dried before use). Because the head needs to flex, it is important to print with the head parallel to the bed, otherwise the head tends to split apart. That print orientation does require support material, which can be hard to remove without damaging the print. Nylon did give me problems with adhesion as well. I was using a ender 3 with an all metal extruder and a insulated bed. I made an enclosure using a plastic storage container and a LOT of blankets. That gave me decent adhesion on hot summer days. I'm currently extending the wiring of my printer so it can safely fit in my new enclosure (an old tool chest with fire-resistant spray foam) I'm also adding new thermosters and a BL autoleveling device. I got to the disassembly part, but I've been dragging my heels on the reassembly side. I will climb into my computer, look for the files and post them on Thingiverse, with the info I can find about my print settings
  4. I've been dialing in print settings/strategy for 3D printed Relay Cover clips made out of Nylon filament. A little trickier than I initially thought, but I'll be sharing my files and settings soon if other people are interested. @amsuco @Pete M
  5. Is is the small clip in this post? It looks like a good candidate to print; it would just require some sanding and removal of support material. I'd print it in ABS or Nylon because it has some force on the head to keep it in place. The material is roughly the same price, but it's a little harder to print I don't have any on my truck. The guy I bought it from had it held on by a twist tie. I could model it if I had an original, or I just make a different design.
  6. Is anyone else out there 3D printing parts for their truck? I just finished up a print to swap out the clock for a switch panel that accept some $7 switches from amazon. I posed the files to Thingiverse if you're interested. I included the Autodesk Fusion 360 Files in case you want to modify it to a different size switch. This is out of a 89. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4189318 Link to the Switches https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011U1NU90/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  7. Please help, I've got engine oil in clutch reservoir (?) I recently became a proud owner of a 4WD 89 Comanche 4.0 paired to a Peugeot transmission, but the previous owner lost the clutch while delivering it to my house, making clutch-less shifts. We added fluid to the master cylinder reservoir, pumped the clutch, and the fluid turned black. Now the clutch has some pressure, but quickly loses it as it drips from where the rear main seal would be. The seller mentioned that the rear-main seal was most likely bad, and it explained the oil leak that I saw when I test drove it. The master cylinder doesn't seem to be leaking, nor does the line leading to the internally located slave cylinder. The engine oil is pitch black and very low. My best guess is that the slave cylinder blew and is ingesting oil from the rear-main seal leak? Has anyone encountered this? I tried to find videos on how to replace the slave cylinder when it's internally mounted, but had no luck. I wanted to get it running myself so I could plan out what the build would be, but now I'm wondering if I should send it out, swap to an AX15, replace the clutch, and convert to an external slave cylinder. Any advice is much appreciated
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