Minuit

OK, this doesn't look like a '91-'92 factory install to me. Can you take a "zoomed out" pic of that whole side of the engine bay, getting as many of the A/C parts in it as you can? I'll try to study the pics in more detail later today. It may just be the perspective but it looks way different from my truck's original setup.

I would personally replace the control arm bolts too even if they looked straight. Maybe not necessary, but just a thought.

Damn, I wish things lined up so I could've made it out to the show this year.

Have fun guys

Good reminder that all old brake hoses are suspect. Glad your truck's safety systems worked and prevented bad things from happening.

^Listen to this guy. He knows what he is talking about. There is much "hackjob-ery" in the world of A/C, but you are being given good advice here. Photos of your truck's A/C setup would be extremely helpful, just so we can be sure we're not dealing with some backyard Frankenstein's monster of a system. Do you know that the system contains no refrigerant? There is also every possibility that the low-pressure cutoff switch has been bypassed, is defective, or disabled in one way or another. This is an unfortunately common hack way of getting a misbehaving A/C system to "work" and sometimes does work in the short term. This can be a VERY BAD thing because it can result in the compressor running without meaningful lubrication. Imagine what happens if you run an engine with no oil OR oil filter, so any metal bearing material that shakes loose is recirculated into the system to make things even worse. As you may imagine, this will ruin a compressor very quickly. So don't turn the system on again until you know for sure that it contains refrigerant and the low-pressure safety switch (that's its real purpose on an expansion-valve type system - to protect the compressor from oil starvation) is working as intended. (assuming it's the OEM setup or approximates the OEM setup) To check to see if the low-pressure switch has been bypassed, follow the smaller of the two lines that comes out of the expansion block on the firewall until you get to the receiver-drier. There should be a switch threaded into the side that faces the passenger side shock tower, with a two-pin electrical connector plugged into it. Check that this is plugged in and hasn't been bridged with a paperclip or something.

Have to say, that is an unusual failure mode for a low pressure switch.

Transmission looks like an NV3550 to me, which means it's almost certainly out of a Wrangler. Which would make sense, as the Wrangler shifter is much taller than the MJ shifter. I'd say that the engine is probably out of the same Wrangler. It has a late valve cover and 99+ intake manifold. I don't see the computer that would normally go with the Wrangler engine, and I also see a Renix fuel pressure regulator so that's all probably still stock. The engine swap seems to be relatively neatly done based on the one picture. Is your transfer case touching or almost touching the transmission tunnel anywhere? The 8.25 is one of the best axle swaps you can do, so leave that if there isn't any problems with it. So - to sum it up, my guess is that both your engine and transmission are from a 2000-2004 Wrangler, and they kept the original fuel injection system.

^Recently showed up on the forum but seems to know what he's doing.

Or if those options seem a little bit too sensible for you, convert to a power antenna like I did. The grommet is part of the assembly and is available new. You'll have to add the wiring all the way back to the fusebox, but hey.

You went through the exact process as Jeep did in 1991. Prior to that the power locks sucked. After they added in relays to shorten the current path, the power locks became much stronger.

You can do an emergency radiator swap on the side of the road, right?

Well, '84 was different in enough other ways that I sure wouldn't doubt it having special decorative armrest diamond things too.

Some of the Jeep VFD clocks (especially the ones on 86 and up SJs) tend to burn up the large power resistors seen in the bottom center of Eaglescout's pic. This must have been a recognized problem as the '91 clock features a bank of identical resistors in parallel to spread the heat among multiple devices, but you can still see where the board has cooked a little bit from the heat. If I read the datasheet correctly, it should be very easy to convert the '91 clock to 24-hour time if you wanted to by removing pin 4's ground connection.

That's about the factory 134a fill. Makes sense I guess. How are the temps?

You could come down to backwoods Tennessee. I'm fully of the belief that some of the people around here have started breeding with vegetables, but hey - no emissions OR safety testing to register vehicles!

Have you tried hitting it with your purse? For a real answer, I would try heat and a slide hammer first, with putting it back together and using the power steering (CAREFULLY, and WITH THE TRUCK VERY WELL SUPPORTED) as a second option. In case you haven't done this much before, remember to concentrate most of your heat on the outside part. You may also try combining this with cooling the inside part with water from a spray bottle to both expand the knuckle and contract the hub.

He's looking for this: UK market '93-'96 XJs had that 120mph speedometer. Other RHD XJs had a speedometer in kilometers per hour. The speedometer from a UK cluster is a direct fit in a '93 (maybe '92) or later US cluster through the use of an adapter that's built into the speedometer.

Nearly positive I've seen a RHD XJ in the junkyard with the "certified calibrated" speedometer too. It had a NP242 and an unusual tow hook setup as well. Looking back on it, I should have brought several parts of that XJ home. Are the transfer cases in the RHD XJs special?

I still have the metric oil pressure and temperature gauges from my UK cluster if you want them separately.

You would get a lot more interest in this post if you added a more detailed description and at least a handful of pictures.

For posterity's sake, here's the 2019 show thread: It was a great time and I wish coming again was in the cards for me this year. If you go, you won't regret it.

Got power locks? They use a similar circuit breaker. Mine aren't green, though. Looks like you have a 5A fuse where I have a circuit breaker. It is supposed to be a circuit breaker with a value of 30 amps. I have an additional one to the right (with red wire coming out of it) which feeds the power windows. Here's a fuse block. This is the "full monty" edition with power windows, locks, windows, and antenna. The extra red wire on the left is not stock and represents a modest improvement to the audio system.