Minuit

It took me a disappointing amount of time to figure that lever out on my '89 when I first drove it :doh:

nice Mosin! My father passed down to me an M44 Mosin Nagant that he bought during a big Russian import about a decade back. He got it for 83$! Great little gun. Can't wait to get out and shoot it. I didn't realize it until I played with it some but there's no way it hasn't had trigger work done. It has a return spring and a really, really nice ~5lb pull. Seems drop safe too just from whacking it on the ground a few times. Not what I'm used to on old commie guns. The one on my SKS was so awful I sent it to a gunsmith in Texas who makes a living fixing them up. Oh, and actually on topic, I forgot to mention that I found a set of Pioneer body mouldings a few weeks ago. I think they'll look pretty nice on the '91.

:drool: :drool: :drool: I want an M1 so bad but the CMP is out everytime it seems like I'll have enough money to even think about getting one. They have some field, specials, and M1Ds right now but alas, I'm poor. One day... Funny thing is, when I bought the '89 it was either the truck or an M1, and I keep changing my mind on which one I should've gone for.

For the '91: - '95 brake booster/MC. Just need to get off my lazy azz and get it bolted in. - Working fog lights using a factory style harness - I finally found a set of seat bracket covers. Need to paint those and fix one of them. - A gas gauge that works for its entire travel (only works from 1/2 tank to empty currently) For the '89: - If I can find a couple more parts at the junkyard, an open loop cooling system - Hopefully, a parking brake - More wiring improvements - The rest of the interior. Just need to paint a lower dash. And here's my present for me. Dunno who all around here is into milsurp guns, but I picked up a very nice Mosin-Nagant at an estate auction the other day as a little present to myself after exams. Goes great with the SKS I got last year.

I've heard there's plenty of NP242 donors up there too... something I'm having a hell of a time finding within my price range.

Yep, that's the first thing I should have fixed when I brought the truck home. I have both XJ and MJ parking brake assemblies in stock but I think I might try to put the XJ one in. The MJ ones are too finicky to trust IMO. Even the one in the silver truck pops sometimes. Until I make up my mind I'm chocking this thing everywhere I park. Here's something crazy: I swear the truck has more power now than it did before the hit :???:

Remember when you were thinking of taking off the swooshes? You need that on the side instead.

:popcorn: Just sayin', there's a lot more to it than I think you know. Ever wired up a car stereo? If so, did you do it properly?

Down here where we don't get very much snow I see about 15 231s for every 242 sadly, at least in XJs. Sent from my LG-D850 using Tapatalk

What are you wanting to achieve by re-wiring the vehicle anyway? That's one of those "you better know exactly what you're doing before you ever think about doing it" projects.

No. The sensor is in the very back of the cylinder head.

The ECU doesn't listen to the gauge sensor. The sensor the ECU uses is in the engine block for Renix and thermostat housing for HO.

1990 is the same as 1989 for most things. Every wiring diagram has been completely accurate including wire colors. for my 1989. Click on the one that says "1990 Jeep Vehicles" http://cruiser54.com/?page_id=365

Absolutely.

Another thing that could cause a rattly noise is the rubber flaps under the cab vents. I just taped them down. Reduced wind noise from that area too. Make sure you don't completely cover them up so the cab can still vent when you close the door.

How's the ride compared to the original springs?

Okay, so after some more frenzied Googling I've come to the conclusion that the input gear is the main factor in compatibility between transmissions and vehicles. Post 1990 AW4s have a 23 spline output, but there's different lengths of transfer case input gears too. I've found this chart on Novak. The only problem is it creates more questions. It does mention that the 1994 change was internal to the transfer case, so my thinking is that it wouldn't affect compatibility? (23 spline only) Short Input 30RH 32RH AX15 Long Input TF904 TF999 NV3550 NSG370 Medium Input 46RE '93-'95 AW4 post '90 The '94 ZJ is unique in addition to all of this. Supposedly the medium length input is rare. How is it rare if every post '90 AW4 (in addition to 2 model years of V8 ZJs) uses a medium length input gear, or is this an error in the chart? If the chart isn't correct, which length transfer case input gear does the AW4 use? Some sources say the AW4 uses the short input, can anyone confirm? What about the ZJ transmissions other than the 93-95 46RE? Thanks for all your comments and good to know that they can stand up to some abuse. I'll never run mine that hard, but good to know it can take it.

Quoted for additional emphasis! Quoted again for even more emphasis. Anyone who throws away MJ parts is doing a huge disservice to the hobby.

I'm starting to think about my upcoming 4x4 swap on the '91 (2wd AW4 4.0), and I've decided I want an NP242 transfer case for the full time option. I know there is some debate about whether or not the NP242 is as good as the NP231, but this is a lightly used street driven truck that will never, ever be wheeled hard. I don't need 4x4, but I want it. I want it bad enough to spend hundreds of dollars and many hours crawling around in junkyards to get it. I've done a little bit of research, but I have a few questions. Can someone fill in the blanks? I want to have a complete list of everything I'll need before I start buying anything, and I want the swap to go as smooth as possible once I've started. Here's what I think I know. Please correct me if anything I think I know isn't correct. - I'll be using an AW4 between the years of 1991 and 1996. According to my research any 91-96 AW4 will be bolt on to my '91 truck without any other changes. - The transmission output spline count changed in 1991, so a Renix era NP242 won't fit an HO era AW4. - ZJ NP242s seem more common than XJ NP242s. Will a ZJ transfer case fit behind a 91-96 AW4 if I can't find an XJ NP242? This is my main question. - WJ transfer cases don't have the speedometer hookup on the transfer case, as they used the ABS wheel speed sensors for the speedometer signal. I assume this rules out WJ transfer cases completely. - There was a major change to the NP242 in 1994, so do the transmission and transfer case need to be on the same side of that year split? If a ZJ NP242 will fit at all, which years of AW4 will it fit? - What about 96-01 XJ NP242s? I want to do this using only factory parts (except for possibly the shifter linkage) that I could reasonably expect to find in a junkyard. I would rather not swap transfer case parts to make this work. Once I get this straightened out I promise I'll make a big huge writeup to make this less confusing for people who decide to do this later on :D

Yup, it changes every so often to a wackier one when you get more posts.

Full console. The exact same one is found in 90% of XJs out there.

Assuming you want a full console, Phoenix Pull -n- Save has 3 84-96 XJs. Pick a Part has 3. Surely one of those has to have a console in it still. Take a Phillips screwdriver with you and something to pry the bezels off with. There's 7 screws holding it on. Two at the shifter, one under the transfer case bezel (or the 2WD blockoff piece if it's 2WD), two in the middle about where the handbrake comes out, and two at the back. If you want a mini console, I have one in my garage somewhere. Let me know what it's worth to you if Eagle can't come up with one. They're harder to find but by no means impossible to find.

Where in AZ are you located? They made two and a half million XJs between '84 and '96, 90% of which had the exact console you need. Your junkyard guy has no idea what he's talking about.

Here's a grey one for $25: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1987-88-89-Jeep-Cherokee-Laredo-Glove-box-door-lid-Gray-/172436993007?hash=item28260bb3ef:g:1loAAOSwA3dYSLEG&vxp=mtr A tan one for $20, but you'll have to swap your latch: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1984-1996-JEEP-CHEROKEE-XJ-OEM-PASSENGERS-SIDE-RIGHT-UPPER-DASH-GLOVE-BOX-DOOR-/322352955396?fits=Make%3AJeep%7CModel%3ACherokee&hash=item4b0dbbc004:g:ZG4AAOSwzJ5XWpEl&vxp=mtr I think this one might even be the AMC dark tan color, with a latch: http://www.ebay.com/itm/84-96-JEEP-CHEROKEE-TAN-GLOVE-BOX-DOOR-85-86-87-88-89-90-91-92-93-94-95-/182362954864?hash=item2a75addc70:g:MvoAAOSwMORW7yqe&vxp=mtr By the time you buy the stuff to fix it and spend the time to fix it you'd be way better off just replacing it. Even for a pretty rare interior color like you have, the glove box door just isn't worth repairing if you wanted it to match. If you're just going to paint the interior black (which I honestly would recommend against - only one of the black painted interior jobs I've seen turned out that great) you can buy literally any 84-96 glove box door and have a factory correct part.

I did something really stupid yesterday. I've talked before about how reverse is kind of finicky on this particular AX15. Sometimes it'll fool you into thinking it's in reverse when it's actually not. I was out of town for the past 2 weeks, and I got home yesterday. Right after I got home I started the truck to see if the battery kept a charge and if everything was still in good working order. It was, but when I shut the truck off I must not have gotten it all the way back into reverse, because about 30 minutes later this happened: The truck popped the rest of the way out of reverse and backed itself into a tree in my yard, missing a brand new fence by about 6 inches on one side and a pile of steel by about 6 inches on the other side. The steering wheel was thankfully turned a little bit, because there would have been WAY more damage had it not gone exactly where it went. The bumper brackets are completely destroyed, and the already rough bumper is completely beyond redemption. The tailgate also has a pretty big dent in it. I'm very lucky that that's the extent of the damage. Before yesterday, the bumper could probably have been repaired. It's not even rusty like the one on the '91 and it was surprisingly straight. The frame is also undamaged, so the bumper and brackets did their job and absorbed the hit. I yanked the bumper straight a little bit so that the license plate wasn't pointing straight down: I really need to fix the parking brake. At least it happened to this truck and not the '91.