Minuit

I never said mounting the relays on their side was wrong. If that's how the post sounded that's not how I meant it, and I did not intend to seem like I was speaking with authority about it. It's just not something that I personally would do if I was building a harness and had the choice. When I wrote that post, I was more concerned with the terminals being more exposed to the elements than they would if the relay was mounted terminals down, not the risk of the relay itself being ruined. Is that paranoia on my part? Probably, that's the way I am.

Here's an XV box that says 35/65 which is the first thing that turned up when I googled "sylvania xtravision" The purple and green boxes say they're 55/65 though, so I'll concede that. I don't like relays on their sides because it seems like they would be more susceptible to the weather mounted like that. Not that I have any evidence, I just prefer to mount them contacts facing down in a proper relay socket.

I'm not sure I agree with mounting relays on their side and definitely not with using quick connects and one color of wire for 75% of the circuit or with using plastic insulated butt connectors for underhood wiring (my preference would be to use uninsulated connectors with sealant lined heatshrink over them) but otherwise that's a solid writeup. gogmorgo's wiring diagram is excellent and very clear about what to do. The factory used I think 16AWG wire for the headlights which I'd say is on the cusp of being too small even for the stock headlights, but for anything that draws more amps than the stock headlights definitely too small. Here's the reference I use if wire size is in question, and for reference the cheap Sylvania Xtravision bulbs I'm sure most of us are running are 35W(2.9A) low beam and 65W(5.4A) high beam.

Those are for an automatic, yes. There was an external cooler that was also offered.

My main issue is you need to keep up with the flatbillers that are rocking the LEDs and a leveling kit. Even on lowbeam they're aimed right at you, so you need something that at least makes enough light to give you a chance to see something other than just their lights... Echoing this. I live in a Southern college town most of the year. I wouldn't have any retinas left if I had to drive a low-sitting car at night around here. Flatbill diesel truck droolies and mall rated JKs are about 40% of the traffic each, and they usually have HID headlights in the wrong housings or the increasingly common roof mounted death ray light bars. If they're courteous enough to keep their stock headlights they're never aimed to compensate for their usually 6"+ lift. That's the main problem I have with driving at night. Without anyone else on the road my headlights were perfectly adequate, even with the original wiring. With the relay harness I'm very happy with their performance, and I still have sealed beams.

In real life, I've never seen them not in line with the door handle. Only ever seen them right up against the cab vent in the brochures. Although personally I've always liked them better in front of the taillights like on the 86s and 87s. :dunno:

I've been watching Grand Tour on Amazon Prime. Not as good as the best of Top Gear but still a great show.

TN salts the roads but we usually start running out about halfway through the winter. I've seen more plow trucks in the last couple of years though, so maybe someone is finally starting to realize that this happens every year.

We got about 2" this morning but the roads seem fine. Last year about this time I made it out of Cookeville about 20 minutes before the roads froze over. I saw several people go into a ditch and even saw someone going the opposite direction spin out into the ditch at about 60 miles per hour. I felt secure the whole way in the '91 with its Cooper AT3s. I really need to get those tires put on my new wheels. Dogs are loving it though.

The lock plate is splined and has to go on a certain way. The spring should compress without much resistance, and definitely shouldn't bend the lock plate. It'll get seized up if the lock plate isn't put on correctly. When I put my tilt column together I had the same problem until I noticed I was putting the lock plate on the wrong way. Canceling cams and I'm almost certain lock plates are specific to tilt vs non-tilt columns as well.

Every time I flip the seat forward. :doh:

Are these it Don? That's 50% more than the Dorman junk but not really that bad if they're good quality. My regulators (pulled from a '94 so they're attached with bolts rather than rivets) weren't the fastest thing in the world when I tested them in the junkyard but they are functional.

I didn't see one in the index either. I'll be making a writeup from my notes for this project for sure.

Which way do you have the flexplate facing? Try turning it around.

You have to add the wiring from the fusebox out. The factory wiring uses fuse taps and 30 amp circuit breakers for the power accessories, and the fusebox on a '91 at least is wired for them. You'll need both the cross-body and door harnesses from (preferably) a 91 or 92 XJ. The 91 and 92s have the lock and unlock relays located by the passenger side kick panel in the crossbody harness, but later years have them as part of the dash harness in a relay center under the dash. 90 and earlier wiring sucks because they don't use relays for locking and unlocking. Just add power from the fusebox taps and ground and it'll work just fine. I was running this off a drill battery on the floor. It's pretty much standalone.

This Jeep lives a life of luxury these days. I have a far rustier and uglier one to haul stuff in now :) The '91 basically has every factory option except 4x4 you could load up a '91 shortbed Comanche with now, and I've always hated having to reach across to unlock the passenger side door and roll the window down. A week ago I found the right switch panels out of an '88 Comanche with power windows and locks, so after thinking about it for about 3 years it's time to actually do it :)

Was it done by this company? http://stretchmytruck.com/services/longbed-conversion/ I had no idea that wasn't factory. Looks very well done. Beautiful truck!

I fixed it! My switch panel came from a 1988 Comanche with power everything. The Renix era power lock wiring is VERY different (and far inferior) from the 91+ wiring with lock and unlock relays. I foolishly believed that the switches would be the same despite the change in door lock wirig, but the back of the switch pack has a very important difference: 88 and earlier (or maybe 1990 or earlier? need to confirm) switch panel with no lock/unlock relays: Late model switch panel, with relays. Everything the copper foil touches is grounded - That means that both the lock and unlock control side wires are normally grounded (through the bottom left section of copper foil) in the pre-89 switch panel. On the post-89 switch panel, the copper foil doesn't even touch the lock/unlock switch contacts (the bottom left set of 6 in the pictures). The fix is to disconnect the copper foil from that area of the switch panel. There's 3 tabs that connect the top left and bottom right contacts of that switch to ground. Bend them out of the way, and the locks will now work from both sides. This wouldn't have been an issue if I was using a switch panel from a model year with relay-controlled locks. Fun fact: The switches are Ford parts as found in the boxy Crown Vic and other products.

No lockout switch for the locks. I'm using a 2-door old style switch panel with a lockout switch for the windows only.

I thought I was pretty good with electronics, but I have no clue what's going on here. I have the cross-body harness and power window and door lock setup from a '92 XJ powered out of the vehicle by a 12V drill battery. I have the power windows working fine, but the locks are acting funny. With both the driver side and passenger side switch panels plugged in, the door locks only work using the driver side switch panel. The lock and unlock relays are getting signals from the passenger side switch, but they are extremely weak (test light glows very dimly), and the relays don't trigger. If the driver side switch panel is unplugged, the door locks operate perfectly using the passenger side switch panel. This harness is in overall pretty good condition. I don't see any evidence of broken wires. To summarize: DS and PS switches both plugged in: - Locks only work from driver side - Relays get very weak signal when passenger side lock switch is used, PS switch still gets 12v feed DS switch unplugged, PS switch plugged in: - Locks work from passenger side - Relays get strong signal What the hell is going on? I suspected the driver side lock switch, but according to the FSM's test procedure it tests good.

Having owned examples of both for a few months now, the HO fuel injection is way better thought out in its installation but I haven't yet been personally victimized by Renix. No centralized engine bay fusebox, just a clump of wires and fusible links sorta kinda hidden under a plastic cover? That's pretty stupid. Insufficient grounds that consistently get caked up with crud and cause driveability issues? Stupid. The '89 is tuned up right and the grounds are for the most part fixed, and in my ownership I haven't had a single issue that I could directly attribute to the Renix system. The only driveability issue I've had was the MAP sensor vacuum line was torn causing the engine to stall and idle badly, but that could happen to an early HO too. I'm sure if AMC had a few more years to develop on the Renix system they would have fixed some of the stupider things eventually. For the first MPFI in a Jeep, it's not that bad of a start, but it wasn't 100% out of the E-carb age. I'd still rather have it than a carb. The power curve, layout, and installation of the Mopar system is a quantum leap though. The Renix cooling system is absolutely unforgivable though. Why would you add another failure prone pressurized plastic container when there's a perfectly good radiator there anyway? Not to mention the whole bottle is at the highest point in the system and way more of a PITA to burp than it should be. The HO cooling system practically bleeds itself.

It's installed over top of the oil pan just like I said earlier. You install the strap with the molded rubber just like you install the plain one.

For the record, my truck absolutely poured oil out of the RMS area when I started it up after forgetting the strap. Not anywhere near a weep, more like a torrential downpour. Enough to immediately know something was very wrong. After putting on the rubber coated strap we've been discussing I get an occasional drip that may or may not actually be from the RMS area (it actually seems more like the drain plug on my junkyard '95 oil pan not making a perfect seal), although I'm sure I didn't do the gasket any favors by letting it leak that badly on first startup.

I'm guessing, but it looks like it goes between the bearing cap and the oil pan. Then the strap goes outside of the pan. But again, I'm just guessing. The gasket is sandwiched between the #7 main bearing cap and the oil pan(there's a little groove in the bearing cap for the gasket to sit in) and the ring goes on top of the oil pan after it's been installed using the very rearmost pair of bolts. It's the brighter strip of metal by the tip of the arrow. I think you misunderstood. I meant the rubber on the metal strap. I just did my RMS and I have the strap but without the rubber on it. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk I was replying to 87MJTIM in that post. Sent from my LG-D850 using Tapatalk

I'm guessing, but it looks like it goes between the bearing cap and the oil pan. Then the strap goes outside of the pan. But again, I'm just guessing. The gasket is sandwiched between the #7 main bearing cap and the oil pan(there's a little groove in the bearing cap for the gasket to sit in) and the ring goes on top of the oil pan after it's been installed using the very rearmost pair of bolts. It's the brighter strip of metal by the tip of the arrow. I think you misunderstood. I meant the rubber on the metal strap. I just did my RMS and I have the strap but without the rubber on it. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk I was replying to 87MJTIM in that post. Sent from my LG-D850 using Tapatalk