Minuit

I don't know that there's anything that's been said here that I totally agree with, but it is nice that most of us can disagree without calling eachother idiots.

You might actually notice an improvement in power over the old one. Fairly common to swap in a late Renix ECU to an 87 or 88, and that's probably why it's in that 87 to begin with.

Agree 100%. But I do question his sanity pulling a front axle in a junkyard while sick as a dog with the flu. YOU'RE A SICK MAN ADAM, and I don't mean the flu. Well done mate! :cheers: 4.10s would be pretty motivating... not sure if they'd be that motivating though.

Your ability to find these nice rare parts is second to none :thumbsup: Love your work. The pics of those wheels are really making me want to get off my rear and fix up the Eliminator wheels I have in storage :D I can't remember if I told you or not but I did get the seat tilt bezel, much appreciated.

It's just a GM Saginaw steering column, nothing special about them really except that from '91-94 they had Chrysler key cylinders in them. You may want to grab it if it's in a non-grey color you like. Other colors are sometimes hard to find but grey ones are everywhere. Took me a while to find a black one:

If you don't get them exact it looks off. Same with the fender badges, too. Does anyone have measurements for where precisely the badges are supposed to be? You can kinda see it in the pic, they should be pretty much level with the door handle. That's why I haven't done a 4wd conversion on the 91 yet, I know I'd spend days just trying to get the stupid badge right :D Yeah, that's why. But yeah, that paint job looks fantastic and the 4x4 badge doesn't take away from that at all. Very well done :thumbsup:

Sure it's pretty, but at 12k... good luck I guess.. I would expect an all original garage kept truck or a mind blowingly good restoration at the very least. This ain't that.

The hardest part is getting the steering shaft disconnected. You can take it off either at the column or the steering box. Probably easier to take it off at the steering box end and leave it dangling on the column. 1. Remove bottom dash panel 2. Remove the nuts securing the column under the dash. 3. Remove all of the electrical connectors 4. Remove steering shaft pinch bolt at either column or steering box end, depending on whether you want the steering shaft to stay attached to the column or not. 5. Remove the 2 bolts at the base of the column. They're underneath some foam padding. If it's a column shift, there will be the a shift cable at the base of the column. If it's a floor shift auto, there will be a park lock cable attached at the top of the column at about the middle. If it's manual, there isn't anything else attached to it and it's free at this point. The column should now be free. Make sure to be careful with it when it's out of the vehicle, since it's designed to collapse in an accident.

If you're talking about the speaker grille, it's plastic welded to the main piece. You'll probably never find just the grille, and if you did it still probably wouldn't fit right. not to mention that removing it just about completely destroys the value of the part, since a lot of times they get cut out for bigger speakers and for that reason people want complete ones. Maybe try a speaker grille for a front door instead? I don't have measurements on hand but it might be close enough.

I despise both of 'em. I've just come to peace with the fact that no matter who wins, I won't be happy for one reason or another. The South Park clip nails it for me too. At least I can still find ammo for sale with the loud orange clown being elected.

All Comanche years used the long shaft gear. The short shaft appeared in the 1993 model year.

Ekke Ekke Ekke Ekke Ptang Zoo Boing!

That is one nice shrubbery.

I don't see a truck anywhere...

Oops, I totally forgot to put this up on the Facebook page yesterday :oops: It's up there now. Me like. Me like lots. Nice, clean old school look to this one :thumbsup:

I suppose this is the place to ask now that you've fixed it: does the "high altitude mod" make enough difference to be worth it?

The absolute bottom of the barrel of 350s from the very worst of the malaise era still make 15-25 ft-lb more torque than a Renix 4.0. The Peugeot would barely be considered adequate behind the Renix 4.0's 225 ft-lb of torque in a completely stock vehicle. I'm not a Chevy guy but let's assume that the only thing done is intake and exhaust - so that would put our theoretical 350 at a very minimum of about 270 ft-lb or so. If it's a real motor and not just yanked out of Billy Bob's '83 C10 it's gonna be considerably more than that. I still think that Peugeot's future life is going to be short and very violent, and that's if the D35 doesn't turn into glitter first. And let's be honest, who's going to be gentle on a V8 manual Comanche? I sure wouldn't swap a V8 in just to drive like a grandma. I'd drive the $#!& out of that thing every chance I could.

I think you could've stopped at the word "Autozone" personally :D I had one from there die on me at about 350 miles - it failed on Christmas eve in fact. If you don't want to get stuck on the side of the road, Ma Mopar is what you want.

The ad says they bolted the 350 to the original transmission. It really does sound like they stuck a 350 in front of a Peugeot. Bet it still has a 35 in the back too. Two ticking time bombs for the price of one! Another thing I just noticed. They mention the "vacuum actuated 4wd system" - so instead of locking the CAD or putting in a one piece axle, they cut a hole in the floor and put a lever in the cab. Why? The CAD fix is very well known. Questionable decision #2. All of the holes cut for gauges everywhere. They probably either didn't know to or didn't want to get the Jeep full cluster working with the new engine. Some people like that look but for me it's questionable decision #3. That gauge bezel is pretty sweet though. Why did they feel the need to cut a bunch of holes in the dash for switches? It would look a million billion times better if they used the original switches in the original locations. There's even a blank switch panel on the left side of the steering wheel. Questionable decision #4. We have a tradition of relentlessly picking apart trucks for sale here - this one looks nice but if DC and I are correct about the trans and rear end there is absolutely reason for it this time. The haphazard gauges and the weird lever on the floor are just my opinion but the trans and rear end (once again, if it still has the D35) are inexcusable. I might sound like an a$$hole but for 10 grand, it better stand up to scrutiny and this one just doesn't IMO. I wonder what the reserve was - and why the bidding jumped from $2075 to over $10,000.

Nope nope nope nope. We're years away from "decent, I guess" trucks like this one being worth 7k. For that much money you can get yourself a really nice one if you wait. Mileage is much less of a concern than maintenance. If well taken care of these trucks are doing fine at 230k. Just make sure the important mechanical bits all check out. I'd much rather have a high mileage babied truck than a low mileage spanked truck - and for the record I own examples of both.

I need to know pretty quick. Are the front right brake calipers interchangeable between 1989 and 1991? Both vehicles are 2WD.

Here's the underside of a complete rocking chair assembly. My idea involved shortening the legs of a MJ bucket pedestal to keep a similar seat height. The problem is that the rear legs of an MJ seat pedestal are really short to compensate for the MJ's sloped floor pan. If I remember correctly an XJ pedestal had much longer legs in the rear than an MJ pedestal. I still can't find anywhere how tall the rocking chair assembly is, but my guess is "taller than the rear legs of an MJ seat pedestal" which means modifying an MJ pedestal wouldn't maintain the current seating position - it might be more tolerable, but still higher. If someone knows the height of the rocking chair mechanism we would know for sure.

What the above fine fellas said. Check the cable that goes down to the driver side of the transmission. If the cable is tight on the shift arm then the cable may just be out of adjustment. Pretty unlikely it's anything wrong internally with the transmission. Could also be something wrong with the column shifter assembly.