Minuit

62 in-lbs for the front case bolts and 11 ft-lbs for the bottom bolts that go through the oil pan. The harmonic balancer bolt gets 80 ft-lbs.

Strange, my (current) seat fabric from a 93 4dr XJ doesn't have the loops, but the junk fabric that I replaced did. Was it a 2dr vs 4dr thing? I can't say I've ever looked for which seats had the loops and which didn't.

That looks great! It looks a lot like a watercolor painting.

I'll agree that Cobalts are surprisingly fun to drive. Cheap, cheap interior though. They also made a stripped down "XFE" model that was made specifically for gas mileage. Apparently it's supposed to do high 30s on the highway.

Good idea. When I did my bucket seat swap I used passenger side cushions for both sides. Way more comfortable, especially since the bottom cushions like to collapse when they get older, and the fabric on a P/S cushion will usually be basically like new. I think you can do the same for the seatback foam, but I haven't tried that.

I saw a few on ebay, but they were either stupidly overpriced or the seller had very low feedback and very long shipping time. Because I want them. If installed properly there's no danger of trapping junk. From the XJs I've seen they help with rust in the lower door seam too.

I need the seals that go across the lower seam of the door and seal against the rocker panel. These go by a few names - "door to rocker seal" or "lower door seal" are the most common. These are usually found on the fancier trim levels. These are also found on 97+ XJs with p/n 55235410AB and are not side specific. Used seals are acceptable, but the rubber part needs to be pliable. Some attach to the door using rivets and others use double sided tape, either is fine. Pic not mine.

Still looking.

I don't see why not. Obviously the floor pedestals would be different, but you could swap the actual seats side to side. The levers would just be on the wrong side. Maybe I'm missing something, but I've been inside these seats quite a bit and I don't remember seeing anything that would stop you from doing that.

They stop water from ruining the door panels. The ones I showed in my pic also protect the speakers and might protect the power window switches a little bit.

It's Team Cherokee, you never know. Both pics are the right thing but one listing says it's for the front and one for the rear. They obviously don't put a lot of effort into their listings. They didn't even charge me for mine at the JY. Most of them are torn up but I happened to get lucky and find an unmolested set.

I replaced my vapor barriers with ones from a 96 XJ and attached it with velcro so it could be removed for service. It's made out of vinylish material rather than the clear plastic.

WOW! I'd even try to adapt those to fit my '90. When you look at the proportions, the seat cushion looks longer on the newer seats. To the OP, ask for a picture of the front mounting point. Another difference is the earlier seats have a lever on the seat back for a recline position. Yep. Longer seat cushion, rounded bolsters, and the recline lever is at the base of the seat rather than in the seat back. I think they're a little wider, too. If you put those in your '90, could you mail me your Limited upholstery? :D I can try, right?

100% agree. When people talk about a modern day Wrangler truck, I don't imagine it being an actual useful-for-work truck, I imagine it being more like this:

Those are the seats from the XJ Limited and later on optional on the Country. I want a set very, very badly. Door panels are the Limited versions too so it's pretty much certain those are the original seats. The bolster design is a little bit different on the later versions (more rounded), but those are the early ones that will bolt on to an MJ seat bracket. The early ones are just the Laredo/Eliminator seats with different covers. These are the later ones:

It pretty much never goes below 0°F here, so I doubt it gets cold enough to do what yours does, but if it's below about 25°F it does stay in 1st longer and shift slower. I didn't notice any difference after adding the cooler, but switching to synthetic ATF seemed like it helped some. For all I know it does it on purpose to help warm the fluid up faster.

Black, Finned Things: October - December 2016 My (original) 1991 radiator was beginning to show its age and had recently developed some weeping hairline cracks, and I was experiencing some intermittent warmer-than-desired running (not necessarily overheating, but upper radiator hose temps in the ~220 range on a hot day were hotter than I'd like) and massive temperature spikes when coming to a sudden stop after driving for a while. In addition, I would notice that the temp gauge would gradually creep up as I drove on the highway, even on cool days. All of these issues are signs of a radiator that doesn't radiate enough, so I bought a radiator that radiates more: This is a CSF 3 core copper radiator. It's approximately twice as thick as the stock unit and much heavier. Thankfully, UPS didn't customize my radiator fill neck like you see so often. One of my favorite things in life is overkill, and so I figured that the stock replacement would be insufficient for driving to school and back. The swap goes like any other radiator swap so I won't bore you with the details, but you will have to get rid of these brackets at each side: I assume those brackets are for a later model A/C condenser or something so they only have to make one radiator to cover the later XJs as well. You also have to transfer the rubber cushions from your old radiator. While I was in there, I plumbed in a Hayden 678 transmission cooler. The specs sheet says these are suitable for up to class C motor homes, so this is probably overkill for a stock street driven truck that doesn't tow anything, but considering the AW4's reputation for overheating I wanted overkill. I positioned it behind the aux fan mostly to make routing the hoses easier. It was an unbelievably tight fit getting it in there without having to remove the header panel, but I did it. Not going to bore you with the details except to mention that you want the hot fluid coming in the bottom and working its way up the cooler if you're mounting it sideways. I plumbed it into the system in the generally accepted way, after the fluid leaves the radiator. If you want an all-OEM parts solution, many XJs had a factory transmission cooler. Look for a wide, short cooler in front of the A/C condenser. It's a tight fit, but I ran the lines like so. I later snipped off part of the tail of the hose clamp so it wouldn't touch the fan. Using a smaller hose clamp would probably have been a better idea. Other than needing to break off 2 brackets and scratch the paint on a brand new $250 radiator, I was happy with the CSF radiator's fit, and very happy with what it did to my temperature gauge: After replacing the radiator, the temperature gauge now sits new-car steady right on top of the 2 in 210 regardless of outside temperature, driving conditions, speed, and phase of the moon. I presume this is 195* on the gauge, and an infrared thermometer pretty much verifies this. My upper radiator hose temperature hovers between 185 and 200 degrees, and my lower radiator hose is in the 120-130 degree range, both right where they should be in my book. My transmission is probably quite a bit happier now that its fluid is actually being cooled by an actual cooler. Immediately after adding the cooler, the AW4 seemed to shift a little bit more smoothly but this is probably just in my head. Unusually for an aftermarket part, I've had no reliability problems with either the radiator or transmission cooler since I installed them in October. So far, I can definitely recommend both products. I finished with final exams on December 8, and true to my restless nature by the morning of December 9 I was working on my trucks. The first thing I decided to tackle was my fog lights. I bought a new pair of them about 2 years ago and put them on the bumper but never wired them up. As someone who absolutely hates the thought of adding fog lights in the usual aftermarket way, I knew I wanted to either use the factory wiring or build a new harness that incorporated fog lights. I found a 92 Laredo in the junkyard with its factory fog light wiring intact (the connectors hadn't even been cut off. Incredible!) and snagged the harness. Adding factory fog lights to an MJ is pretty simple. The trucks are all wired for them out to the front lighting harness connector, so you can add them simply by swapping out your original front lighting harness with one that has fog lights and adding the switch in the cab. Be careful though, since I believe the pinout for the connector changed at some point from what our MJs have, and I believe it was for the 1994 model year, but I can't confirm that year personally. Out comes the header panel... Other than taking off the header panel, you just remove your old harness and put the new one in the same place. I hooked up the harness with the header panel off just to test the function of the lights. I almost forgot that on HO trucks you have to add another fuse in the PDC slot marked Aux Lamps to make them work. That's better. Hey Buck, remember how I said I wouldn't be doing anything interesting to this truck unless I found something on my "buy immediately" list? To be continued...

Just plain old numbers. No digital display until 97. The speedo and odo are controlled electronically after 91, but the displays are analog. That's exactly how my 91 idiot light cluster looked. The red and black full clusters rest at 9 o'clock regardless of era. The cable driven pre 1991 "blue" clusters (idiot light, 3/4 and full) sit a little bit below 5 when the vehicle is stopped and the electronic 1991+ ones sit at exactly 5. Doesn't mean it hasn't been tampered with, but that is definitely the correct idiot light cluster for a 1991. I don't think the mileage is suspect just because the cluster bezel has been changed. I think an owner probably just liked the woodgrain better. The numbers on the odometer line up nicely, so I don't think that particular odometer has been altered. I'd expect to see the numbers not line up correctly if it had been rolled back. Of course, there's no way of knowing if it's been replaced with another low mileage cluster except for a Carfax report or similar.

I took a look at the '94 FSM since that's the latest one I have, and the pinout for the front lighting connector is definitely different. Didn't know that before and I apologize for giving wrong information :oops: The '94 FSM I have mentions parking light and high beam relays on the front left radiator closure panel, which is confusing to me because I have never heard of an XJ having those. I can't find any other evidence that 94+ XJs have them, so I'm not sure if I trust that particular copy of the FSM. The '91 and '90 FSMs agree with eachother. I don't have the '92 or '93 FSM it looks like the change occurred between '92 and '94 for sure, if I had to guess '94 assuming the manual I have is right. My fog lamp harness came from either a '92 or '93 and it was a perfect match. I did need to replace the connector on the harness since it was corroded but I didn't change the arrangement of the pins.

You can use the switch with whatever kind of lights you want. It's just like any other switch. There should also be a plug under the dash (probably behind the switch panel on the left side of the steering wheel) that goes to the OEM fog light wiring. You can also add factory fog lights by swapping out your front lighting harness for one from an 84-96 Cherokee or Comanche that had fog lights. No wiring work needed at all, just plug and play. If you don't want to use the OEM fog lights you could snip the plugs off or make an adapter. Probably takes less time than wiring up aftermarket lights, too. If you like a streamlined looking install that's the way to go IMO.

4 and 5 should make it turn on (don't know if you'll actually be able to see anything, but on the green faced ones the time will show up), and 10 and 11 should make it light up. The pins are numbered looking into the back of the radio, not the front of the harness plug. Ground is a tab next to the plug.

I wouldn't wanna tick that one anyway :driving: Actually, it depends at what point in the '89 model year these boxes would have been ticked.

Looks like someone ticked every single box on that one. 5 speed too, very nice.

Looks like it's in pretty nice shape under all the dust!

I'm looking for a very specific OEM radio. Part number 56002467. To my knowledge this was the highest level radio in approximately 1988-91 Jeep vehicles. By 1992 it seems to have been replaced by the more common green tinted version. I need the one on the right. Not interested in the one on the left. Note the black display and no CLK button. When the radio is powered on the display should be green. I need one in good working order. The cassette player doesn't have to work, but the radio needs to be otherwise functioning. Willing to trade for parts of similar value that I happen to have on hand, just let me know what you need.