johnj92131

I have to think this engine is simply not running very well. 70 mph in top gear should not be a problem on a level road. My AW4 equipped truck with stock 3.55 gears and 235/75 x 15 tires would do much better than 85 mph on the freeways. But when the plugs were shot and other things were wrong, I had performance problems. Once the problems were fixed, the truck had no problems power wise - even towing another Comanche over 7000 ft mountain passes. Yes, it was slow. But it did it and had no problem maintaining sensible highway speed towing the other truck on a level road. Check the basics first: new plugs, new plug wires, distributor cap rotor, etc. Then read your plugs and see what they tell you. Simple things like that first. You also don't say what size tires you are running now - I "think" you are saying you want to run 31s - not that you are running 31s now.

Looks OK at one end of the range. How does the resistance change as the float goes thru it's full range of motion? May also want to check the readings with the float thru a vertical range of motion.

Nobody hurt, that is important. The XJ will get fixed. Too bad you have to deal with it. BUT, if that is the worst thing that happens to any of us - Well then - we are lucky. The chump in the Explorer made another stupid decision. And he knows it was stupid, but acted like a 12 year old anyway. Maybe there is some hope for him.

This one looks to be original paint! Seems very much worth a drive to check it out.

I just replaced my fuel pump with a Bosch # 69302 pump from Amazon. It was a Warehouse Deal with damaged packaging - Got a $50 discount off the list price. Ordered a new gasket, lock ring and sleeve. Total cost was just over $40. Amazon may still have one more of these deals. Here is a link to the Amazon Warehouse deal for $29.44 https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B000BZICYU/ref=sr_1_1_olp?ie=UTF8&qid=1486237167&sr=8-1&keywords=Bosch+fuel+pump+69302&condition=used Here is a DIY write up on the Bosh pump install: http://comancheclub.com/topic/45860-bosch-aftermarket-fuel-pump-installation/ If you order it from Rock Auto, don't forget to use a 5% discount code. Here is one I used in January: 5% Discount Code: B985813F856660 Expires: March 22, 2017

I smell a photoshop job. Or some "alternate facts" maybe?

All factory/OEM grade Jeep 4.0 replacement parts. The LUK 01901 clutch is supposed to be "Heavy Duty", what ever that means. The 4.0 is rated at 230 lb/ft of torque and stroker versions put out more torque. The Luk clutches seem to live OK according to on line reports. My TDI engine will be tuned to about the same 230/245 lb/ft of torque, so the Luk clutch should be a reasonable choice for right now. That 230/245 torque rating is the max I can get with the stock turbo. If and when I go to a bigger turbo and more agressive tune, I may well have to replace the LuK clutch with a stronger clutch. It will be easier/cheaper to replace the clutch in the Comanche than in the Passat. The Passat TDI has a VR6 clutch in it right now with a 300 lb.ft rating and I had to detune the engine to avoid clutch slippage from 315 lb/ft to 285 lb/ft. Next time I replace the clutch, it will be stronger. Then I can retune the engine, add fuel back and turn up the boost. Should be able to hit 350 lb/ft torque at less than 1900 rpms.

I purchased the MJ because I need a truck to haul "stuff" from Home Depot and other "stuff" to the dump from home renovation projects. So I really like the 7 ft. 4 inch bed. After moving to the "new" house, I pulled the SnugTop off, that made it easier to bring in trees, plants, and landscaping materials. Not to mention lumber and concrete blocks!

I had my truck repaired at Maaco just a long block from my work in 2009(?). The body man who did the work on my truck was great. Maybe it helped that I was there twice a day taking pictures of all the work. The body panels were well fitted, the new doors fit well and the hood lined up properly when everything was done and adjusted. I paid extra to have them spend more time doing the correct prep work. I also built a good working relationship with the shop owner/manager, he knew I expected a good finished job. Not simply a cheap, low buck job. Now 6 or 7 years later the paint job still looks presentable. There used to be 6 or 7 Maaco shops in San Diego. This shop is the only one that survived the 2008+ economic decline. All the rest of the Maaco shops in San Diego went under. But the old owner/manager has retired. The new management brought in all new people - And their work quality has declined to simple run of the mill crap. I found a different shop last year to paint my Passat and am very pleased with their work on the Passat. Again, I visited the shop and checked their prep work on my car frequently and offered to pay more for additional prep time/work. In the end, I got a better paint job for just a few hundred dollars worth of extra preparation work/time. And I gave the shop owner an extra $200 more than he asked for, because he did a great job. This shop will also be doing the body work and paint on the 86 diesel MJ later in the year. As others have said: Prep work is the key to a good paint job. Spend your time/money here. Do not skip anything here. There is no shortcut to good prep work!

Good write up so far. Nice metal work on the shoulder too! Love that Xray picture. Reminded me, years ago I was told to put a wheel and tire under the car as a back up to the jack or jack stands. Worth repeating, given your close call. Take it you got the truck with the tilt forward GC seats in it? I put GC seats in my truck also, but yours seem to sit lower than mine (and I like that). Are your seats mounted on the original MJ seat mounts or something different?

Tell us more about the ralley. Who/what group organized it? How long is the ralley? Sounds like a 10,000 km trip to me.

Don, You need to replace that tailgate handle. You must have an extra chrome one laying around in your parts stash.

X2 on this. Last Friday, I just had the fuel pump replaced with the Bosch 69302 replacement pump (Got an Amazon Warehouse deal for $31.00 - saved $50) Shop charged me $130 to replace the pump. If you do have to replace the pump, don't forget a new gasket, lock ring, and pump intake sleeve. First check the fuel pressure in the fuel rail. Should be about 35-38 and it should hold that pressure when you turn the engine off. My old pump did not hold the fuel pressure and fuel just leaked back into the tank. So no fuel at the injectors = engine not running. This was a slow, intermittent failure. Just as gogmorgo described. The DIY how to Knucklehead referenced is EXCELLENT!

It's a V6, right? First thing to do is measure how wide it is and see if it can fit in the Comanche without cutting. Think the smart thing would be to use the whole WJ power train in the MJ. If that seems to work, then move on to researching the electronics. Perhaps best to strip it down to just the engine/trans management systems first? Good Luck and post what you learn. This should be a fantastic swap into the Comanche. 400 lb/ft of low end torque!! Modern transmission! What is not to like. Most important you have the whole WJ to start with.

Think I would pass on this one, Even for the 86 MJ diesel. Just too retro for me.

Bonkers, Thanks for posting this again! I always enjoy reading these ads. Noticed the 87 diesel has dropped from $6000 to "only" $3500 now. I will wait for the next $3000 price reduction! Seems to be several nice ones for $2500 or less.

Yes, necromancy! But I have started to notice just a little bit of slip in my AW4 and just now learned about getting the TPS wet. So at least I learned something!

Try Costco for a group 34 battery at $83 plus tax.

Sam, When did you get the Wildernest? I got mine last September, but have not used it yet. Have you used yours yet?

Ordered a LUK clutch, pressure plate and flywheel (new master cylinder also) from Rock Auto for the TDI Diesel conversion. Part NumberPart TypePrice EACore EAQuantityTotal1992 JEEP CHEROKEE 4.0L L6LUK01901 (01-901)Clutch Kit$ 157.89$ 0.001$ 157.89LUKLMC206Clutch Master Cylinder$ 21.79$ 0.001$ 21.79LUKLFW193Flywheel$ 45.79$ 0.001$ 45.79Discount $ -11.27ShippingGround$ 30.98Order Total $ 245.18Visa -$ 245.18Balance Due $ 0.00

A properly function alternator should be putting out close to 14 volts DC at the battery with the engine running. Did you measure the charging voltage with the engine running? Your fully charged battery should measure 12.50 volts at least with no load. That was the spec we used years ago to ship new batteries to the car factories when I worked a Gould Automotive Battery decades ago.

The factory spec is 0.035 for the spark plug gap. Over time, the gap will increase because the spark plug tip will erode away. Eventually, your engine will start to misfire and run like crap - till you replace your plugs and properly gap them. I just went thru this a few months back. Replaced the plugs and the plug wires for the first time in 10 years. Engine ran again like it should.

I used Google to search for information here on the ComanchClub: http://comancheclub.com/topic/19339-trailer-wiring-for-4-wire-and-6-pole-receiver/ http://comancheclub.com/topic/40102-tail-light-wiring-diagram/ http://comancheclub.com/topic/42027-trailer-light-harness/ From Etrailer: https://www.etrailer.com/faq-wiring.aspx Lastly, you may want to farm this job out to a competent electrical shop. I cost me $100 to get a new, clean 4 way harness built and properly installed in my 91 Comanche. Not saying you can not do it. But these guys do it all the time and can be done with it in 2 or 3 hours - even a 7 pin connection. If you need the 7 pin connection, I suggest you buy a trailer brake controller at the same time. It would have taken me half a day just running around to get all the parts, not to mention the time to install and check my work properly.

Thanks for the up dated picture! The truck looks great. Question about the 14 original pictures - is it just me that can not see them or are all 14 links dead?

Very Nice score there!