johnj92131

Thanks for the information! I have a couple of sets of the under dash tweeters but have not taken the time to splice them in to the MJ. Given my hearing problem, I may never get around installing them in the 91 MJ. But if/when I actually do the 97+ doors on the 1986 diesel MJ, it makes sense to make sure I get the good speaker system. Even the door speakers on the 97+ are better than the earlier speakers.

Where do the Factory Jensen tweeters mount? Under the lower dash panel or somewhere else? Minuit, What trim level Cherokee did those tweeters come from? The only 97+ tweeters I remember seeing were in the arm rest are on the 97+ doors. Looking ahead to a 97+ door conversion on the 86 diesel, I would like to find out more about the 97+ doors those came with. Maybe even find a set for future use.

Just looking at what it might cost for gas alone if you found another Lear Cap 1000 miles away from home. That is a 2000 mile round trip. At 20 mpg and $3/gal for gas (California cost) I get 15 cents per mile for fuel to travel. My gas cost alone for 2000 miles would be about $300. Then you have to pay around $200 for a new/used Cap. IF/when you find one for sale on Craigslist etc. That $500 price for the window begins to look like close to what you are going to have to pay - one way or another. Pay now and get it now or pay later and get it later (maybe). I faced the same choice when I wanted a Wildernest Camper shell.

When my starter was acting up late last year I went to a local rebuilder and got a locally rebuilt starter. Then returned the old core for my core deposit. Yes the starter works fine. You should be able to find a local rebuilder in Las Vegas or Henderson. At least then you know who did the rebuild. Can not say that about a starter from the local Auto Zone, etc.

The above radiator is $200. RockAuto sells a C.R.A.P. radiator for $63.79 plus freight. (C.R.A.P. = Chinese Replacement Auto Parts). It just depends on how many times you want to get stuck doing the same job over and over again. Us Old Pharts here learned after the Third or Fourth time...Buy the good stuff, do it right one time and move on the the next problem. Then fix the next problem the Right way with the Good Stuff. Your car/truck/what ever will be much better for it.

Hi Tom, Ever heard the term "CraigsList Flakes"? It applies to both sellers and to buyers on Craigslist, unfortunately. Craigslist can be a very useful, but many times it is worth EXACTLY what you pay for it...Nothing. Because it is free to advertise, lots of people are just putting a hook in the water on the chance they will hook the Big Tuna. But it is also a place where you can find a good value on many things IF you are patient.

Getting a set of factory service manuals for $75 is like buying an oil well or a gold mine for just $75. You would not pass up a gold mine for that price would you? I have a full set of factory service manuals for each car I own, Including a couple I have had for more than 45 years and still use.

Renix full gauge cluster from an 88 should work fine in your 89. BUT the plastic mold for the non full gauge cluster is different from the full gauge cluster. You might want to try to repair the broken cluster with epoxy glue like J B Weld or the like. Just a thought.

Try the simple things first. I had an issue with the radiator cap not holding pressure. Replaced that and things got better for a little while. Next replace the thermostat with a fresh Stent 195 degree one. After that I have to wonder how old is your water pump? When the truck gets warm/hot and you park the truck - Do you see any water/coolant on the ground? Try getting it warm, then parking the truck with the engine off for 45 minutes. See if you have a leak, maybe from the water pump?

Congratulations on the purchase! Just keep looking and eventually you will find just about everything you want/need. Much of the fun is in the hunt! It took me a long, long time to find a real factory MJ diesel so I could register it in California. Also just recently found a Comanche specific Lund Visor at a semi reasonable price.

Think you need 87-90 cluster. Check the speedometer cable on an 86 and I "think" you will find it is different than the 87+ speedometer cable connection. 1991+ speedometer is electric, not mechanical drive.

Here is a link on how to go from bench seats to bucket seats in your Comanche. http://comancheclub.com/topic/7656-making-xj-buckets-work-in-a-mj/ Hope this helps!

Yellaheep, Can you email me a couple of high resolution pictures of that cable end? I need to figure out what to use on the end of cable, so I can hold the spare tire in place. Mine broke off and I lost the old cable end. As I recall, it seemed to be a molded hard plastic? Any clue as to what would be a good substitute? My email: johnj92131@yahoo.com

Webbing was likely part of the Noise, Vibration and harshness upgrades. Along with the "brace" for the main bearing caps and some other changes. As old tooling wears out, you replace it with new tooling and make some improvements at the same time. The inline 6 block went thru many improvements over it's production life.

Don, Nice write up. What about putting it in the DIY section? Most, if not all, the Comanche/Cherokee bucket seats I tried had the same tilt lever sticking problem. Schardein, I would also like to know what your find with the rocker seats. Especially the part about a lower pedestal? Funny thing is that I have not had that issue with a couple of pairs of Grand Cherokee seats that I have used in the Comanche. I seem to be able to better adjust the seat back recline and have more leg room with the Grand Cherokee seats. Installed the fold forward mechanism from the 2 door Cherokee/Comanche buckets on the GC seats and I am happy (for now).

Here is a thread from Jeepstrokers that addresses which blocks can be overbored to 4 inches; https://www.jeepstrokers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=538&p=6646&hilit=sonic+test#p6646 Here is the specific post I am refering to: Blocks Postby Plechtan » December 26th, 2008, 2:53 pm According to Lee at Hesco, the later 4.0 blocks can be bored to 4" without a problem. Well i thought i would give it a try, i had 2 blocks and here are some of the sonic test numbers 0 is the front of the cylinder, 90 is the passenger side, 180 is the rear, and 270 is drivers side. First number is is top, second is middle third is bottom. Casting 53010328AB Cylinder# 0 90 180 270 1 .281 .306 .154 .291 mid .195 .315 .108 .269 bottom .814 .334 .115 .295 2 .198 .325 .180 .252 mid .182 .288 .150 . 250 bottom .189 .318 . 170 .281 3 .166 .342 .188 .295 mid .144 .309 . 158 .275 bottom .169 .511 .172 .305 4 . 188 .325 .148 .305 mid .177 .301 .136 .281 bottom .200 .388 .159 .313 5 .190 .327 .180 .285 mid .171 .301 .163 .254 Bottom .176 .622 .190 .280 6 .189 .350 .263 .280 mid .146 .321 .223 .238 bottom .182 .576 .313 .272 Casting number Casting 53010327 AB 1 .223 .226 .173 .261 mid .186 .236 .144 .227 Bottom .242 .268 .159 .285 2 .162 .284 .147 .308 mid .163 .284 .122 .244 bottom .145 .262 .201 .269 3 .152 .176 .185 .314 mid .133 .255 .141 .269 bottom .245 .260 .163 .274 4 .140 .202 .218 .360 mid .141 .202 .155 .272 bottom .169 .318 .169 .361 5 .161 .227 .182 .303 mid .134 .231 .155 .247 bottom .154 .261 .169 .275 6 .144 .225 .278 .284 mid .136 .258 .203 .242 bottom .178 .249 .231 .276 we wanted to have a .09-.10 minimum cylinder wall at the thinnest point. It looks like both castings have plenty of meat on the sides of the cylinders, but are a little thin front to back. The 328 casting is generally thicker, but has a thin spot in the center rear of the #1 cylinder. To get to 4" we have to remove about .062 per sides of the cylinder ( .125 on the diameter) We ended up using the 328 casting and sleeving the #1 cylinder, we did break through a little, but i think the sleeve has plenty of support. Both blocks had almost no wear on the cylinders, you could still see the hone marks. I will look for another 328 block to see if i can bore it to 4" without sleeving it. Peter LechtanskiThe worlds Fastest Comanche Prroject

Unimportant. Most of us are not going to care about the block alloy. All we want is to bore the block we have out to the next size when it is time to rebuild after 300,000 miles. We are not likely to need another rebuild for another 300,000 miles, if the engine is properly rebuilt. How many of us even go as far as have the blocks sonic checked for core shift?

Count how many straps are holding your current tank up. Two straps equals 18 gallon tank. Three straps equals 23 gallon tank. Since you have a long bed, you can buy a 23 gallon replacement tank and use it, no matter what tank size you have now. Ebay is a source of multiple sellers of Comanche gas tanks. Be aware that prices are all over the place! Please do tell us why you want to buy a new tank. Rust from the existing tank?

Just put these in this morning. Amazing difference from the old incandescent lamp! I could actually see the LED backup lights with the bright morning direct sun.

That is cheap.

Just wondering how much for the "new" door. 5 years ago I got a pair of doors with P/W & locks complete for $200. Same color as my truck. Another advantage to the complete used door is that you don't have to spend time making the final adjustments to make sure everything fits just right.

Just a comment about large capacity oil pans: Oil needs to get up to a running temperature in the engine to do it's job properly. Large capacity pans promote slower oil warm up. It means water in the oil does not boil off as quickly. It also means you are using thicker oil longer as your engine warms up. Thicker oil does not get into tight spaces like a thinner (or warmer) oil.

Congratulations! From this Dumb A$$ and thanks for posting the solution for the next bunch of D.A's

My dad had a 56 chevy and my uncle had a 55 chevy - at least one of those had the fuel filler behind the tail lamp. Think it was my dad's 56.

My 1991 owners manual says to use engine oil that meets SAE SG/CD requirements. Then it tells me to see the oil viscosity chart for which weight oil to use. The chart says above 0 F use 10-30 and 5W-30 from 60 F and below 0 F SO, Look on the motor oil package for the SAE grade SG or SG/CD. That is the oil Mopar says you should use. Then buy the cheapest oil that meets that specification to save your cash. Change the oil according to Mopar spec. Same with the filter. Change it according to Mopar spec. Above is what the factory said to do for long engine life. Other people may "think" they know better, (including ME) but Mopar had to build these things and make them work for years and years. Who do you want to trust?