johnj92131

Why would you intentionally buy a rebuilt transmission that the seller admits was rebuilt incorrectly and doesn't work right? I'd rather get one from a junkyard with higher miles and a 90-day warranty. The ad says it pops out of second on occasion. I figured if i got i could spend another hundered bucks or two to have 2nd gear fixed and i would have a freshly rebuilt nv3550 for $700. To optimistic? YUP! Way too optimistic. How often do your stars line up just right? Mine don't line up very often.

I picked up a used 2 wheel drive AX15 last summer from a Comanche Club member for $100, complete with bell housing. I was told it worked well and it will go in my 86 diesel MJ shortly. But if I have a problem with it - I will get it fixed or replace it with an Aisin AR5 and still be $$ ahead. If you change your current AX15 to an NV3550 are you going to change from an internal slave to an external slave? Gear Ratios: NV3550 First Gear 4.01 Second Gear 2.33 Third Gear 1.39 Fourth Gear 1.00 Fifth Gear 0.78 Reverse 3.57 Gear ratios for the AX15 are: 3.83, 2.33, 1.44, 1.00, 0.79, for first through fifth, respectively. Not much of a difference at all in the gear ratios worth picking one over the other. I "think" the Aisin AR5 will swap over using the AX15 bell housing and the AX15 input shaft. But I need to actually try it if the AX15 doesnt work out. Gear ratios for the Aisin AR5: Gear ratios (Canyon, Colorado, H3): 1 2 3 4 5 R 3.75 2.26 1.37 1.00 0.73 3.67 Keep me in mind if you get the NV3550, I may just want to buy your old bell housing and AX15 input shaft to experiment with.

Bo, Did you add the GlowShift to your new truck or was it there when you got the truck? I am going to add an EGT gauge to the diesel Comanche and GlowShift looks reasonably priced. Also plan on calling GlowShift to see about their air/fuel gauge next week. Thanks to all for the pointers!!

Poly bushings etc also tend to have a higher durometer reading than natural rubber bushings. That durometer reating translates to more noise, vibration harshness tranmission. A lower durometer reading means a softer, more compliant bushing and less noise vibration harshness transmission. But Poly bushing can come with higher or lower durometer readings, Just like natural rubber can. But Poly bushings tend to be higher in durometer readings than natural rubber in general. Poly bushing have a longer lifespan than natural rubber bushings. I suspect BrownDog uses very high durometer reading Poly bushings, simply because of the many, many comments about the noise, vibration, and harshness they transmit.

Newton, Thanks for posting the picture of the Rodeo light. I didn't think of putting the overhead light that close to the front window. I was thinking a bit further back towards the middle of the cab. So the picture was/is valuable to me. I have a new headliner on order from A1500ram for the 86 diesel and looking for ideas to mount an overhead light. Perhaps an overhead console also could work.

:rotf: Hey GranPa, is that any way to bring up the younger generation? No wonder the world is in trouble!!!

That is xerootg on TDIClub who is finishing his kitchen this month. Got our kitchen done last summer with a good contractor. :laughin: :laughin: See the pictures of the interior on this link for the interior color to make the new headliner: http://comancheclub....2-86-diesel-mj/ Your stock color should be fine to match the 30 year old faded "porno red".

One more Reserved for future update

Updated March 7, 2018 TDI engine stripped down to long block. Notice the problem in exhaust port #3? See all that carbon? A cylinder leak down test showed the rings to be in good shape. So the head was pulled. Inspection of the cylinder bores shows original factory cross hatch pattern still visible in the bores. Inspection of the cylinder valves shows likely oil leak in the #3 exhaust valve. See the wet area around #3 valve. Brown stuff is cardboard from the head being put on a sheet of cardboard to avoid damage to the head surface. So the head is off to the machine shop to be freshened up and new valve seals. A new head gasket and upgraded head bolts will be ordered before the head goes back on. The cam and lifters look great, so will be reused. This will mean a 2 week or so work stoppage. In the mean time, a freshly rebuilt 11 mm injection pump and a set of fresh, larger nozzles are ready to go in when the head comes back from the shop. Both items will add to the engine torque and horsepower.

In mid February, it was finally time to get the 86 MJ into the shop and out of the Michigan winter. Renault engine getting ready to be pulled It is out! 2.1 TD and AX-5 on the floor Cracked cylinder here and a crack in the cylinder head explain the problems with the 2.1 TD engine The now empty engine bay Next attention moves to the VW TDI engine. Here is a link to a quick video of the TDI engine running on a test stand. This was simply a test run to see what might be wrong with the engine. Lots of smoke, but the engine does run. Next step is to replace all the gaskets, a new timing belt, new water pump and a rebuilt alternator. The original alternator was frozen - so it was sent to a rebuilder.

It is time to start documenting the history and progress of this project. The search for an original diesel Comanche started 6 or 7 years ago. After a couple of conversations with the California DMV and BAR about attempting to do a diesel conversion on my 1991 Comanche I quickly figured out that the best thing for me was to find a real 1986 or 87 original MJ diesel. It simply avoided a whole lot of issues in California. Some of you may have seen my thread from last summer with pictures of me towing the 1986 Diesel Comanche I purchased in Victoria, B.C to the shop in northern Michigan that will be installing a Volkswagen 1.9 TDI engine in place of the broken down Renault 2.1 original Turbo Diesel engine. Here is a link to that part of the Comanche's journey with a couple of pictures along the way: http://comancheclub.com/topic/51141-86-diesel-mj-on-its-way-to-new-home/?hl=victoria&do=findComment&comment=521006 I drove 1200 plus miles from San Diego to Victoria on Vancouver Island to pick up this truck and then towed it 2000 more miles to northern Michigan. Since 2013 the truck has had 3 different owners before I purchased it last summer and has been offered for sale at least twice here on the Comanche Club by different owners. Here is the first time the truck showed up on the club. Notice that the truck ran in 2013 and that IslandXJ did put some work into the truck before he lost interest and sold the truck: http://comancheclub.com/topic/40422-86-diesel-mj/ By August 2015 the truck was offered for sale by the second owner. http://comancheclub.com/topic/48148-diesel-5-spd-low-milage-vancouver-island/?hl=diesel This time I spoke at some length with the seller but I passed on the truck because of the price and a third owner purchased the truck in September 2015. By June 2016 the third owner listed the truck For Sale on the Victoria, B.C. Craigslist. By now the truck was advertised for parts and not running. After several phone calls, fresh pictures and verifying both the registration and the VIN number as a real factory diesel MJ I purchased the truck via PayPal and otherwise unseen. The purchase price was $350 Canadian or about $286 U.S. More info and pictures of progress will follow in the next week or so as I gather some pictures.

I am looking for something to help me tune the 4 carburator setup on my Corvair. I have one primary and one secondary on each cylinder bank. All 4 carbs have an idle circuit and the idle seems to be OK. But when I put my foot in it, it bogs down. One bank seems to be running way too rich. So I think I need a wide band O2 sensor. Bo - are you not running an Exhaust Gas Temperature gauge on your diesel? That will tell you real quick when to back off the boost. I had my tuner cut way back on the fuel at high boost levels to keep from melting a piston or blowing the turbo on my Passat diesel after I put a bigger turbo on the Passat.

This is what I found when I chased down Bo's Cyberdyne: http://www.cyberdynegauges.net/air_fuel_gauges.php I am actually looking for a test instrument with a tail pipe probe so I would not have to weld in a wide band sensor bung into the exhaust system. But it may turn out that a weld in bung might be the least expensive way to go.

Thepepenator, People are talking about 2 different things in this thread. Your first sentence above seems to indicate your fuel gauge is not working properly because of a "bad float". Meaning the fuel level signal is not getting to your fuel gauge 1) If you don't know how much fuel you have in your tank - A new fuel pump will not fix your fuel gauge problem. 2) If your fuel pump is bad, your truck will not run. For problem #1 there is NO new part your can buy to fix the problem. The factory parts are no longer available. So DO NOT throw away your current "floater" assembly. It can likely be fixed/repaired. See the link in post #7 above for a how to. The "floater" in the Comanche is NOT the same as the one in the Cherokee. Because the shape of the fuel tanks are different between the Comanche and the Cherokee. The Renix era Comanche "floater" will fit in the H.O. era Comanche fuel tank correctly BUT it will read FULL when the tank is empty and will read EMPTY when the tank is full. Hope this helps.

Newton, Congrats on MJ of the Month. Very nice work in a relatively short 1 year time span. Question: Can we see a picture of your full headliner? That last picture in post #71 shows just a little bit of it. Also want to see what you did with the Rodeo overhead light. Can you post a link to the A pillar gauge pod? The fit looks quite nice for the Comanche and I may need to get one for my VW TDI engine swap into the 86 Diesel MJ. Thanks,

Can anyone point me to a reasonable price Air/Fuel meter? Looking for something to put in the tail pipe and help me adjust a multiple carb system on an older car. Thanks,

How do you know? Ever look at them using an A/F meter over varied conditions? A culmination of in the field results from a large sampling of people who tried 710s and settled on 746s. OK - sounds fair enough.

$80 seems like a fair price. Glad you have good results. But just wonder what would happen if your old "710" injectors were cleaned up again and then put back in your truck?

Here is the link to the 91 Fuel Float repair. Excellent documentation and pictures: http://comancheclub.com/topic/52339-fuel-sending-unit-repair/ To the O.P. - Read that thread before you buy anything.

Yes, very low population density there. Last summer I used the 91 Comanche to tow the 86 diesel from Victoria, BC to upper Michigan. All along I-90 and I-94, 1100 miles from Coeur d'Alene, ID to Fargo, ND. Not too many Comanche Club member in that area. Same story in Saskatchewan and Manitoba.

Please tell us where you purchased the 746 injectors and how much they cost. Were these factory new 746 injectors or "just" cleaned up old injectors? Last questions - how long had the old 710 injectors been used, were they factory new injectors or "just" cleaned up old injectors?

First, welcome to the club. Lots of helpful people here. Here is a link on How to Post Pictures: http://comancheclub.com/topic/37727-how-to-post-pictures/ Please note that you need to use your own picture host site like photobucket or the like. Again, welcome to the club.

Good.

Do you have one of these engine support bars from Harbor Freight or something like it? http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-capacity-engine-support-bar-96524.html Should be easier than trying to hold the engine up from below.

I had a little bit of trouble at first with one of the LEDs. But looked at the bulb and the socket then just made sure the LED was properly screwed together and pushed it in the socket. Had LED in my Right hand Socket on my Left hand. Just a firm push, then a twist to lock it in the socket.