Keyav8r

Timken's strong suit has always been tapered roller bearings as used in automotive wheel hubs, differentials, etc. in passenger vehicles as well as heavy haulers, earth overs, etc. This type of bearing is also used in industrial applications to handle high combined radial and thrust loads. On the repair side of our pump business, we have used them to upgrade equipment when other types of bearings have repeatedly failed. Both the automotive and industrial markets for tapered roller bearings remain strong and if Timken walks away from either or both, another bearing manufacturer will fill the void. Will that product be as good as the Timken product it replaces? Only time and experience (using the "new" bearings) will tell. Timken is/was faced with the same problem that many other American manufacturers have faced. Reduce the cost of production or go out of business trying to compete with lower cost imported products. And, if we're honest with ourselves, the problem is caused by us, the American consumer, who chooses to go to Walmart, Harbor Freight, online stores and parts stores and buy the cheaper import product instead of the higher cost domestic product. That's the base reason jobs are being exported and America is loosing production capability (and skilled labor force) that will be essential in the event of another global war or major disaster in one of the countries that now have our production capability. If you've never been guilty of doing this, I apologize. But I have to admit I'm part of the problem at times.

What they may offer doesn't matter. Unless it happens to be at or more than I'm willing to take to start the whole MJ process again. For the right money I'd start looking for a replacement auto 4x4 HO tomorrow. Or, just buy my buddy's 88 auto 4x4 XJ, fix the AC and drive.

Money_Pits - when you say completely rusted through do you mean each bracket is in two or more pieces or do you mean the rust is so bad they won't support weight? If you have one complete front bracket and one complete rear bracket (no matter how rusty) you can use them as patterns. Make new brackets with some plate and/or angle, one set like your examples and one set mirror images. Did this on the 88 I had but didn't make any drawings.

Hornbrod had a NOS battery tray for sale a few days ago.

Use some flat bar or plate to span between the XJ mounts and weld the MJ brackets to the bar or plate. There's probably a write-up with photos on the forum.

AX18 transmission. Can we assume that is a typo and you meant AX15? Did you swap the AX15 in to replace the BA10 or was it in the truck when you bought it?

I used Walker down pipe and tail pipe on my 88 LWB and had good fit up. I did have to work with the tailpipe and new hangers to keep it from touching the frame above the axle. Not too much trouble and, yes, I can sometimes get a little OCD going.

Put a good battery in it and see if the windows, locks, mirrors and whatever else works. If nothing works, say goodbye (after you get your good battery out). 20K miles without an oil change - what other routine maintenance was skipped? New radiator, no heat? Computer replacement raises a red flag also. Everything always worked good before it was parked.

Either one works for me. April is better for me than the March dates.

And after you do the harness upgrade, don't put those on your MJ. IMHO, they just don't look right for a Comanche. There are too many other options. But, it's your truck, your choice.

Give me a date and time and I'll be there (unless I get a chance to go to the beach!). Assuming you're looking at a weekend meeting, I'm in for the 12th-13th or 26th-27th, out on the 19th-20th. We need a date first to get an estimate of the number who will participate in order to determine where we could meet.

Have to wonder about the hitch. Would it be a fifth wheel style on the roof of the sedan? Doesn't look like enough room between the back of the car and the front of the trailer for a tongue. Or, is it just a good photoshop job?

Run a tap in the threaded holes to clean them out and then use some brake cleaner to blow out any debris, oil, grease, etc. (put a shop towel over the hole and wear safety glasses when doing this). Clean the bolt threads with a wire brush and some brake clean for the same reason. If the threads aren't clean the Loctite is useless. If you do all this and the bolts still back out, get new bolts.

Yes, regreasable joints are better - if you regrease them. Regreasing the joint provides fresh lubricant and flushes contaminants (water, mud, etc.) out of the joint and therefore prolongs the service life. As Hornbrob said, regrease with a hand grease gun. The powered guns can develop enough pressure to damage the seals. Non-greasable joints are lower cost because it takes less machine work to make them. OEM parts are usually selected based on (a) meeting a minimum performance specification and (b) lowest cost. It's never wrong to use better parts, especially if you plan to use your vehicle for heavier duty service than the original design.

Thou shalt Just Empty Every Pocket to upgrade thy Comanche.

Great to hear you got the job! Lafarge had a cement plant and a couple of aggregate quarries in the area that were sold to Argos. The guys I know who worked there (now working for the new owners) said it is/was a good company to work for in terms of pay and benefits. Hope that proves to be true for you!

91 - because of the previously mentioned improvements and because that's what I have! Used to be 88 (because that's the first one I had). Regardless of the year, I believe that no matter how "finished" your Comanche is there's always something that needs (or you want) to be done to it. And then another something after that.

A commandment is an order or command to do or not do something, as in the 10 Commandments. An amendment is an addition or change to an existing policy or document, as in the Amendments to our Constitution. An example - the Second Amendment.

Don't remember seeing Lisle tools in AL. Are they sold retail? Through parts stores or ?

If I remember correctly, there is a recessed bolt in the center of the engine side of the connector that has to be removed. Tried to find a reference in MJ Tech section but couldn't find it. If my memory is incorrect I'm pretty sure someone will on here will provide clarification.

I can't believe anyone would put that much ugly in their MJ. Roll Tide Roll Just received a text photo of my granddaughter with Big Al in Phoenix. Freshman at Bama with a 3.979 in her first term in Chemical and Biological Engineering.

The one at the dealer looks like a true crew cab with roll down windows in the rear and you can see the rear door handles. The green one looks shorter and has camper style windows. Extended cab version with maybe a smaller door on the passenger side? Or maybe no rear doors like some of the early full size extended cab pickups?

Good luck on the interview. As hard as it is too find people with a good work ethic, proven skills, and the ability to communicate, you should be golden.

Not really a direct answer to your question, but I've got the Quadratec Cherokee mats in my MJ. They fit pretty well, but not perfectly. I believe they would hold a lot of mud, slush, etc. and they look pretty good. Only complaint is that occasionally my heel will hang a little on the "tread" pattern when I'm shifting. Not enough to be a danger, just a nuisance. I had Weather Techs in my '05 Silverado and didn't like the way they moved around a little on the carpet. Also, I had the tan color and the driver side mat had some obvious wear/color difference in a fairly short time (of course, the driver side tends to get more wear). They probably wouldn't move around as much in a Comanche due to the floor pan shape. Put Huskys in my Ram and like them a lot more than the Weather Techs. Don't move around and clean up well. Haven't checked on availability for Comanches or Cherokees. Don't know if this helps, but it's all I've got to offer.

I prefer the hypo-turbulator grease for its higher lubricity, negative deviation and non-corrosive properties. You can gain 2 to 3 MPG due to the decreased rolling resistance. It is fairly difficult to find at the chain stores but you can order it from most mil-spec or aviation supply houses.