Jeep Driver

It's a one piece seal, you'll need to drop the trans. If its leaking that badly it may be that he crank is so badly scored that a new seal won't last long.

That's why I called them whiners and not very smart. Brand new AX15s for $1500 all day long.......bells are everywhere. I work my @$$ off for everything I own, everything I do.............ain't nobody donating S--- to me. And the phrase "cheap Jeep" has worn very thin on me.

Now if you want to watch something of interest........gets me thinking-

Watched it already. Borderline whiners..............eh.............and maybe not very smart.

I'm anxious to know how this works out.

Since I'm an open book............for everyone to see.

Nine lives............you just killed number eight.

Or it could be that 99% of Jeep drivers don't know how to drive a stick. Dead serious about that. I have no idea how it is that people burn up clutches.

POR? Witch's brew. Clean it up and do it right!

Near $1500, assuming you can find a donor for $500 or so. New uppers and lowers, TB, shocks, brakes, soft lines, bearings, etc............maybe new springs............Ujoints, rear DS........and so on. I won't bolt on garbage, if it comes apart- it goes back on right.

Are you referring to the plastic TOB? Mine has been out a couple of times due to bad trans after the clutch replacement. I've had a new National brand cast steel here, the plastic LUK went back in, nothing at all wrong with the TOB.

Yep.

What I do, as a matter of course........ The A-pillar trim is not unique, common to every MJ/XJ. Get a pair off an XJ to practice with or if you are successful just paint those black and use those, then save your existing for future replacement. .

Most of us have installed new headlight harnesses.......when you get back up and running with your shop.........look up "harness upgrade' and you'll find info ad nauseum.

It all depends on whether or not you working with what you have or creating a system. Not all amps can be bridged, that said, if you are starting from scratch why not match the amp and speakers to begin with? Scan through my build thread, you'll see what I'm doing with my front speakers and rear, rears will be treated as mid-bass. Tweeters are in the sail panels, not the dash, not the door card. I had a moment of stupidity some time back, I cheaped out on the sub, thinking that I was going to use the 5 channel amp I already had. Existing amp and sub are by the wayside now. New sub will be as shown here, new amp will most definitely also be JL, I have not decided on 4 or 6 channel, sub is active. Active or passive crossovers.........that's my question to resolve but is some time off yet. What head unit? what amp? what speakers? crossovers? staging? wiring? sound control/vibration/deadening....what are you doing about that, the MJ is a F-ing rattle-trap?

You going to come back?

Good call, didn't even think about the rod/switch.

Right behind the headlight, between the air cleaner box and the headlight.

This is the one that I'm getting- https://www.crutchfield.com/S-HCOKv45d0jP/p_13693330/JL-Audio-ACP108LG-W3v3.html?XVINQ=GLX&awkw=132253908505&awat=pla&awnw=g&awcr=69546578425&awdv=c&awug=9013407&gclid=CjwKCAjwwZrmBRA7EiwA4iMzBFyOt4YqIGpAGadSsQhbO1Dc_2NjxcD7qTMYSt54ftm3gyb77HuFdhoC5bgQAvD_BwE These come with two different woofers, make sure you get the W3v3. When I see/read audiophile I think of PS Audio where a pair of speakers will set you back $100K

An 8in wheel is actually 9 in in width. This is why it's important to actually measure the back spacing. An adapter is a spacer.

How are they weak?

No, 10 is the correct size for a 12 inch tire

There are engine guys. There are transmission guys. And then there is everyone else. I'm an engine guy, I know my place, I have no business inside a transmission. If you have the aptitude and patience for it, give it a shot.

What's the big secret here?? Why can't' you guys just say I paid $XX for a couple of tailgates? So the rest of us know what things are selling for.