Jeep Driver

Remove the bolt at the driver's engine mount. Unbolt the trans mount at the xmember. Jack up the engine a couple of inches. Slide the trans to the driver's side an inch or two. You'll have all kinds of room and a better angle. And if you have one and are worried about it....remove the mech fan.

This is the problem. People think or believe they have actually done something by doing X or Y or Z and because of that they are safer or because they get ABC insurance credits for mitigation of some sort that they have actually accomplished something. When the fact is, for example, 9.99 of 10 people reading this sentence have no strong connection between the roof framing and the foundation other than the roof sitting on top of the wall framing/block....so.......they FEEL real good about that new shingle being nailed to 'code' when there is a greater chance of the entire roof separating from the house and blowing away.

I've been building in one capacity or another for more than 34 years.......I've seen a lot of S--- over the years. "Mitigation" of any kind, for the most part, if your has has not been built within the last 20 years, is meaningless. Winds blow, winds suck, positive forces, negative vacuums. In this photo I suspect the was was sucked out, not blown out- Garages are the first to go, large spaces, vacuums, I've seen this personally after tornadoes. Most houses, structures, built to 'code' or not, are built slightly better than dog houses. For those with money, times are changing, building materials and processes are changing, rapidly. I follow the Build Show, see here for some impressive framing- Worth your time.

https://www.nachi.org/wind-mitigation.htm

I suggest you find a good pair of axles from a late model XJ.........3.55 are just fine. If you wait, are diligent, you may find a pair out of a 2.5 XJ..........4.10s.........good all around gear for you.....and me. You can obtain the best bang for your buck.........under or around $400 with new brakes and fluids, rear discs if you want to go all out. Good axles, good gears. Hold out for LS rear, when it works it works nicely for moderate driving.

Since you are asking for opinions- Main page forum menu- -DIY- Sub DIY menu- •General Maintenance •Electrical Maintenance and Modification •Suspension •Driveline •Transmissions •Engine Maintenance and Modification •Cab Water Leak •Paint and Body Work •Etc.............. I don't bother with subforums much because it's just a cluster of confusion. And, FWIW..........we should be mindful of whether or not the information or the quality of work is worthy of the thread/post. IOWs, something that any one of us can replicate and actually use. Better to sort it all out in some kind of organized fashion than a cluster of "stickys" on every page.

You are not going to over pressurize a caliper, it should release regardless of pressure applied. You've got a problem, prop valve or no prop valve............I'd be looking elsewhere. More than likely you've go crud in the line. I'd start with flushing the entire system.

What is the appraiser's job? to satisfy the lender, no one else, that's it. We judge for ourselves everyday on everything we buy what something is worth to us. If the house is worth 99K to the buyer and to the seller.......they agree..........then it's worth 99K. Lender needs to be satisfied that what they are lending money on is solid, worthy of it's value. Once an offer is signed- if the house appraises for 110K, solid deal, buyer is buying into positive equity and lender is more likely to approve. If house appraises for 89K, lender will reduce the amount they will be willing to lend or they will refuse to lend.........this gives buyer the ability to back out. And remember- you can home inspect yourself right out of a deal. Seller is not obligated to fix anything. Seller may offer a couple thousand dollars of credit for repairs but you will get to the point where the seller will feel abused and he/she will simply refuse....this also kills a sale.

4.10 for the win.

So, you are suggesting it came with a D44 front from the factory? Yes, pics please.

From the looks of it..........yes.

Phone and email...........done everyday by every lender. I'm pretty sure that Publix takes good care of their own, if it were me, I'd start there. These people will walk you through all of this.

Realtors negotiate sales. Appraisers appraise. Write your landlord an offer contingent upon appraisal and financing. The last thing you need is a realtor. If your landlord accepts your offer, you pay for an appraisal and survey, your lender will demand both............find an attorney for the closing, they will handle title and so forth.

There are tabs that lock onto detents in the female stub, you need to stick something inbetween to unlock. There supposedly was a tool for this that no one has ever seen. Or, you can get yourself a Hurst/Core and chuck that sucker in the trash.

If you cannot find an illustration.............. Given a test light and 20 minutes and I can identify everyone of those wires.

Grab a couple cans and clean that out. Use an old toothbrush if need be.

You made is sound like you had a forest growing in there.

How about a pic so we call see the mess you are talking about?

Here is an NOS Mopar- https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Mopar-Locking-Gas-Cap-5278655AB-NOS-M59/372676133066?epid=83599931&hash=item56c53a80ca:g:tZgAAOSwGNFcawjd For those of us who have unloaded the BS emissions crap- vented Corvette cap- https://www.ebay.com/itm/75-81-C3-Corvette-Original-Vented-Gas-Fuel-Filler-Cap-NEW-GM-476/321341318359?epid=168921835&hash=item4ad16f64d7:g:XqgAAOSwipdap0BV:sc:USPSFirstClass!37843!US!-1

We have standard GM gas caps..........you'll find these anywhere.

Do a want ad for it I know that Pete just bought one I don't know if he's willing to sell it or not they are around you'll find them I'll check eBay

This.

https://www.softopper.com/softopper Don't see a long bed here........call them.