Jeep Driver

Idle-up is total BS (wiring), those who have don't know they have it because it doesn't work anyway. You need two parts specific to the Renix 2.5, the bracket with adjuster and the pulley. Everything else can be overcome with parts from other Jeeps. Box from ZJ and pump from WJ for example. WJ pump will have it own reservoir. You find the bracket and pulley and we'll help you from there. Run a want ad. There was or is a couple of guys with parts engines............wake these guys up and let them know you need parts.

Burping, here's what I do that works for me- Let idle and bring to temp, let rest for 5 minutes, idle to temp, let rest, idle to temp and top off rad and overflow...........will self burp. I've had a '98 XJ with an auto (others in the past) that never has over heated or ran hot, if it did- I'd do just as I described in the earlier post. I'd bypass the radiator all together.........trans heat is aggravating the situation.

He's been dealing with this for months. If you have air in your system you'll know it immediately.............not months later.

Not a winch bumper of course.

I'm also curious about something else- How many miles on the engine/trans? What does your engine compartment look like? Clean? or saturated with oil?

This is not your problem. If you are serious about solving your problem- Start with Motorad or Mopar stat. Replace your rad cap. Divorce your trans or at the very least run a cooler........cooler first then to rad. Replace the fan as stated. Use override switch for heavy traffic or really hot days- Efan full time. What is the replacement radiator? I was under the impression you did this work but apparently it was the PO?

No batteries required. Comes down to a matter of taste.

Mopar or Motorad only

I'm all for bold color........but................

Actually, the entire panel does not look good. At the very leas you are going to have to get a test light and start tracking down circuits.

Been a while but I've been working on it here and there when I have time. Cab was sanded and reprimed because it sat too long. I got all my block sanding done. Spot primed again yesterday. Windshield is out and channel is cleaned and primed. The only thing I have left is wet sanding, clean, paint. And I have to build a tent. I wet sanded a small panel yesterday just to see how it was going to come out, slick.

Ground to the cluster is attached to the dash frame just above the hood release handle. Clean that ground.......improve that ground and every other ground on your truck. Do you have tilt wheel? if so is it loose? just curious.

The green wires are your fused links, those attach to the starter relay............or pos battery post. The other wires.......to trans, those are '86 and may be different than later models...........don't know but likely back up lights and 4X light.

https://www.ebay.com/p/Bumper-Rock-Crawler-Rear-Warrior-Products-565-fits-84-01-Jeep-Cherokee/214901453?thm=1000 I have the 560, these are nice bumpers.

I have been, or could be, quoted here as stating this- $80K was my number, and here it is- Jeep Gladiator Prices Are Soaring As Some Dealers Add Markups of up to $20,000 https://www.caranddriver.com/news/a28105626/jeep-gladiator-prices-dealer-markups/

I didnt' get to talk with the owner, he was out on a delivery but I did chat with his coworkers. Those cars are now fetching $60-125K and are rarely seen as a driver. They are creeping in on exotic............that's just my opinion.

Form and function. I will agree about light bars. I did order my JW Speaker headlights last night. I have a Warrior bumper, now with four holed drilled into it for the lights I had..........trying to find lights that will work with the holes already drilled has been my stumbling block. I've decided on old-school look but I insist on LEDs. I've gone back and forth over the KC lights but VisionX has me intrigued.

Top of driver's side bell.

The view from my office window. Eat your heart out, Eagle.

FWIW- I don't remember which and I don't care to look for it.....but......... Early, AMC, windshields used Ford mirror mounts and IIRC later Chrysler mounts were GM mounts. If you have a later windshield with later mount, any GM mirror should fit. It may be the other way around but I don't think so...........GM mounts are bigger than Ford.

Last thought- I'm painting all of my trim with base coat black- no clear. I'll end up with a soft-semi in the beginning knowing that it will fade to matte in a year or so and will have be repainted in a couple of years. Specifically for something like a roll bar, I don't want it to talk back to me..........should not be the highlight of the truck.........muted, there but in the background. "Flat" clears will milk out the color.......just so you know, that's why no clear.

Also beware: that is if you are serious about color coordination- Paint a bumper semi today and in one year it may fade closer to a matte. Powder coating does not fade like a black paint will. A matte powder coat and a semi paint may look identical in a year or so.

Look at sample first. All depends on perception. To some.........matte is a semi and semi is a gloss and gloss is a hi-gloss. To some this is a semigloss.........to me this is a matte- I know what they look like in real life.