Jeep Driver

Assuming you assemble it correctly, I don't think it's matter of 'safety' so much as it is likely to cause stress cracks and fatigue to the cab which is part of the 'frame'. You'd see stress at the corners of the windshield or possibly a crack in the windshield itself over time. Common to have cracks around the rear window just from normal use and age.

A quart of clear with activator is about $40........you already had it wet sanded. Just shoot it.

Be thoughtful about it and just do it.

If you plan on cutting out the back of the cab..........then yes, I agree. And I'm guessing here........but...........loaded/built-out and wet my guess would be about 1800lbs...........you are pushing it.

My intuition tells me........... And we've seen this with other parts such as fuel pumps. Manufactures are no longer making MJ/XJ specific parts for Renix era and I suspect soon 90s era models. I beat the drum............... Better set yourselves up NOW if you want to drive your MJ for the next 5 years or so...........after that, WTFKs?

https://www.ebay.com/p/Oxygen-Sensor-Direct-Fit-NGK-23553/76143591?iid=163684314905&rt=nc

I only use Autolite spark plugs

Last thought here- Shocks I've installed on my MJ- KYB, good shock for stock suspension but one failed on me and I will not buy KYB again. Monroe, fair ride but too soft.......slosh. Gabriel truck shocks, harsh, way too harsh, @$$-end would literally bounce over RR tracks. Gabriel air shocks, early attempt to compensate for sagged out rear leafs.........................DON"T even waste your time. Bilstein 4600s, great for stock trucks, on the softer side but responsive, good shock. Bilstein 5100s, must have for trucks lifted 3" and beyond, matched perfectly with GS rear springs and OME front springs. Great shock at a reasonable price. Cost- Parts only, you do the work, moderately priced stock parts, based on my experience- somewhere around $1600 to $1800. To include brakes, uppers and lowers, bushings, rear leafs, shocks, joints.......etc....and don't forget your ball joints. My guess on the mechanic's bill- somewhere between $2200 and $2600. You'll get all kinds of opinions, take it all with a grain of salt, you have to be happy with yours and that's what matters. I'm one who is not happy driving around in a slosh-bucket, my truck will see a lot of back roads and winding highways. And don't neglect your steering sector.......ZJ boxes are good, find a tight one. And check your intermediate shaft.

Shocks will not compensate for weak worn springs. Yes, you are correct, with a mechanic it will never end and the cost will be steep. Do a lot of reading, study and compare parts and prices, study what others have done. Map out a plan for replacement, save and buy parts over time. Example: You'll set out to install new unit bearings in the front and realize that your axle shaft ujoints also need replacing........make your joints part of the plan. You'll plan to install new brakes and realize your soft lines also need to be replaced.............do it all at once and be done with it the first time. After 30 years your springs have sprung and your bushings are shot. The slosh in the corners are not just worn shocks.......track bar, uppers and lowers (bushings), bushings in rear springs......shackles.....etc.......all play a role. Buy quality the first time. Or do like I did, I've had three suspensions under my truck......one of the very reasons my build thread is titled Evolution '88.

Dead snakes are good snakes.

Yes, direct fit.

Ask the people you know- who did we gain our independence from ? All I know is they stole my damn potatoes.

You can get Baler belt at Rural King different widths and sold by the Foot which is basically Tire material perfect for all kinds of things and is cheap. Also the truck stop near me sells mud flaps which were about 3/16 thick and appears to be very firm but pliable rubber it is perfectly flat with no writing on it or impressions they sell for $20 this would also be perfect for your gasket / pad.

2.5 radiators did not change until 1997, same radiator from 1984 through 1996. In 1997 the 2.5 went to the 4.0 radiator. I would encourage you to think this through, I also plan on doing a small block swap and I intend to contact Ron Davis radiators and have a custom radiator built. Also intend to maintain the 2.5 radiator configuration I'll just have a radiator built they can handle the small block Chevy. I don't think the 4.0 radiator will be sufficient or efficient. Also if you are going to cheap out on a $100 Spectre radiator you'll probably cheap out on the fans and you'll be one of those guys who will come back here complaining of overheating.

If you want help from us you will have to be more forthcoming......that's how it works, we are not here to pull teeth. You could have told us from the beginning that it was a late model swap, that said, I still don't believe that is the harness even for a later pump. Too many wires. You may have 12v from somewhere and the pump may run.........but............it still does not look right.

You'll be buying quality and value. Yes it will ride like a truck.........but then.......it's a truck.

Shocks and springs work as a team. People ride around on crapped out springs, install new shocks, still rides and handles horribly, then blame the shocks. Photo courtesy of the jokers at NAXJA-

Well, now that you mention it.......... From the south or not, from rockauto or not........that is not an MJ pump/sender anyway. Anyway, Welcome!

OK.............well..................... Fuel pump plugs into C139 which has three wires, red, black, tan. Red is power, black is ground, tan is gauge. I have no idea what you have it tapped into but it ain't C139. Someone here will post for you a link to the '88 electrical manual............you need to trace this down. And that type of splice is not acceptable for longevity.

Yes, get the 5100s.