Jeep Driver

You need to study what others have done to gain crossover steering, consider the trade offs (steering geometry as it relates to the TB, and custom links), I chose to stay with the Y configuration, not out of laziness, not because I'm cheap, but because I see no benefit. "Toe deflection' only occurs during extreme articulation, you will experience little to no deflection during normal road driving.

Here- https://bellingham.craigslist.org/pts/d/blaine-98-jeep-cherokee/6868843309.html

OK then....... Why'd the body shop do an alignment? If it's so minor? Why have you only had the problem with it pulling after the minor incident? On one had you present an association and on the other hand you say it's not associated.

Beauty is in the eye of the beholder..........I guess.

What we don't know is the extent of the damage, how the damage was repaired, what did they overlook? My guess is this has nothing to do with an alignment. What I'd like to know is just how much stress the control arms are under? My guess is the axle and or the frame has been tweaked.

That XJ looks to be about a '94 model. Brakes will be the same from about '92 through at least '95......those axles are in that range. Yes, you will need some things. Unit bearings, U-joints, fluid change, bushings, rotors, calipers, control arms. You have a choice, go through the axles and do them right BEFORE you install and be a happy camper..........or..................... I do things right the first time, I'm not one of those guys who slaps someone else's junk on my truck and then scratch my @$$ trying to figure out what went wrong. Clean those up, new bearings, new brakes, new joints.........paint. You'll be a happy camper too.

Finally, someone is actually doing something interesting here.

As you probably know, the Launch edition sold out in one day. They will produce the 2-door, no doubt, 2022 limited edition, it will also sell out in one day. By 2025 you'll see those in full production. There are people, lots of people, with lots of money, they will spend it, Jeep will take it.

That's precisely what it is I haven't had a landline since 1999 If I don't recognize the number I don't answer the phone

And maybe I could afford a used one 10 years from now.

I don't want to piss in someone's sale ad..........so........... Member is selling a pair of axles, D35 an D30, 308 gears, member is asking $125 for both. Axles are undesirable. However- '87 to '89 knuckles are getting near impossible to find, anyone wanting a "big brake" upgrade must have these knuckles. These are the only Jeep knuckles with removable caliper/pad mounts. These knuckles alone are worth $125. 2 years ago now I paid $100 for a similar axle but had to drive from Knoxville to Charlotte to get it. I would have gladly paid $150 plus shipping for the knuckles alone. Same regarding a 2.5 engine and related parts that someone was giving away because he thought the parts were worthless......those part are not worthless, member was willing to give away about $500++ Yes, it takes a little effort to break parts down for shipping, shipping is effort, and for the trouble you should be rewarded. Know what you have, know what it's worth, and to whom it should be marketed. People need parts, people are willing to pay a fair price for what they need.

As others have said........just spread the love around. I had no problem welding mine. With perches and brackets....just weld in one area then move on to another and come back to where you started.

With rad cap off- Idle to temp, shut off, let rest for 3-5 minutes, will self burp, idle to temp, shut off, self burp, idle to temp, top off radiator and install cap. Run to test. Fill reservoir. Works every time.

I've never had a problem burping a cooling system........don't know why this is such an issue.

Correct AC and alt bracket for your year.

Mr Complete 2635 Jackson Ave, Memphis, TN 38108 (901) 452-9090 Call here for the compressor bracket.

I see you have a want ad posted. The only part that is not easy to find is the compressor bracket..........the part is 2.5 specific and you must find one for the '88 serpentine drive - '87 to '91. Rockauto has the compressor. All under dash components can be found from any 87-91 XJ or MJ, does not matter if 2.5 or 4.0. Hoses will have to be made, see JeepAir.com Condenser and dryer can be configured from other models, I'm thinking of using a Compass condenser for my V8 conversion with all hose ends to match.....again see or call JeepAir. IOWs you can put this together, part are all out there...........AC bracket and the Alt bracket that goes with the AC bracket, I have the alt bracket and a 105 alt if you need it.

Solving my ground problems for good. 1/4-20 stud welded at frame, all grounds at rear will go here, tail lights, trailer wiring, E-brake, accessories......etc. Just north of fuel tank, this ground stud is for the fuel pump and possibly the new gauge sender.

To the left is a welded on ground stud, all grounds at the rear will go to this stud. To the right of the stud is a square nut I welded in on both sides for muffler hanger mount. Cable running out of frame, I'll explain in vid. Another ground stud welded to frame, this one is for the fuel pump and possibly the new sending unit. New Daystar bump stops. Not for appearance sake- will explain in upcoming vid- I had some rot here at the top of the tub, two layers of glass. Tubs will get blacked out with undercoater just as the frame did.

The short answer is, no.

Just a thought- I serviced my Nissan yesterday, measured my rear leafs, compressed, 54.5 inches, eye to eye. Measured my MJ leafs, 53 inches at full arch.........off truck. Nissan springs are flat, mounted over the axle. There is no reason why Nissan springs cannot be used on an MJ to drop chassis for under axle application. My Nissan handles 1000lbs no problem. Bushings- if you have not done bushings yet.......I guarantee you'll never do them twice. What's my point? If you insist on used, you could have gotten late model (2018) used Nissan springs with good bushings and accomplished both objectives at once. GS has them for $119 each new and bushings are cheap and OEM from Nissan are only $6 per end. Pin location? near center, long perches allow plenty of adjustment to center axle. Springs- you want to race this truck? Clapped out XJ springs would never cross my mind.....no matter how cheap. I thought about posting spring info on your other thread........but then..............regarding spring rates and so forth as it related to body roll and performance.

Good for you, glad to see you working on it.

ECU triggers relay for 2-3 seconds, prime, then no signal. Unless key moves on to start position. The only reason I bother to mention is because if he turns key to 'on' or ignition.........by the time he walks around to read meter he will show no power at 86.........then think he has ign/power/wiring problem.

86 is trigger from ECU, correct?

For example- Service panel cannot be installed in a closet where flammables/combustibles MAY be stored. Panel must also have a clearance of 3' in any direction, no obstacles and must be in plain sight. Panel must be behind meter can, if not, a disconnect must be installed outside at the can. Bridge must be removed and neutral and ground wires must be separated on separate bus bars. Just a few I can think of.........foundation must also be tied to ground.......etc....... My meter is in the garage, I have been grandfathered in, electric company makes appointment with me to inspect the can every so often. I'm not an electrician but I've been around this stuff everyday of my working life.......I've wired a few buildings myself. I've also pulled a few meters to service panels.......just call the electric company the next day and tell them what you did, they swing by and install a new seal. One of those things whereas it's easier to ask forgiveness than permission. And as a homeowner you have every right to act as your own contractor.......pull your own permits, get your own inspections.