Jeep Driver

Couple of things here- One, never ever argue with a cop, for any reason. Never show 'evidence' to a cop, it will be confiscated. You will accept your ticket THEN have your day in court. I have represented myself pro se twice and I prevailed twice. Secondly, your cam device MUST- Record high resolution vids. Record GPS location. Record speed. Record the time during the infraction and voice during the stop. Must be seamless and unedited. Multiple devices recording different data will not be considered as evidence. You show up in court with your grainy, no data, no voice, POS $49 Amazon garbage and any judge with throw you out on your @$$. And even then your device will not stand up against a state certified radar gun.......ain't gonna happen. You better be smarted than they are.

You and Kelly ought to get together..........lol

Another one and quite a character.

Thinking back on this- I think I did this more to accommodate the brake switch than anything. You might want to check length yourself. At the time I had gone through several switches, OEM switch design is horrible. I have an E-brake controller relying on the switch, the switch became more important than just lights. Going to the Ford or later model switch became a no-brainer. This makes the style of rod end irrelevant, no modifications necessary and bracket is a bolt-on affair.......from later XJ.

This isn't going anywhere, hasn't gone anywhere in 5 years.

Yes I butt welded, had I to do it again I would thread the rod and use an adjustable end, those are available. The spacer comes with the WJ booster.......about 1/4" thick or there about.

Like anything and everything, you'll get what you pay for. I was going to point you to the KimKomando show, worth a listen, she sold one until recently...store closed and she is reformatting. https://www.komando.com/cars-trucks-tech/388885/the-right-dash-cam-for-every-driver But here- https://www.digitaltrends.com/cars/best-dash-cams/

Another master-

He actually did a vid on estimating but gave no real numbers. From what I gather based on comments regarding his time verses body shop time..........seems most of his repairs will be between $500 and $800. 4 hours dentless @ $800 or 4 days at a body shop @ $2400? Gives him quite an edge. Of course not all repairs are dentless repairs and I've also watched him do dentless at a body shop where the panel can only be repaired 95% and the body shop finishes and repaints........part of a larger collision repair.

Also, you'll want to understand 'staging'.............positioning those in the lower panel offers the worst of staging. Useless.

Tweeters require crossovers, active or passive. Watch his vids, he is one of the best.

Correct.

I will have to overcome the same problem when I go V8. I will retain the existing 2.5 rad support. I will find or have built a suitable radiator. Obliterating the steering geometry is not the answer. Be strategic.

I cut the end off the MJ booster rod........cut end of the WJ rod, welded the MJ end to the WJ rod. Yes, spacer = not having to beat the crap out of your firewall.

Nice. Better that I expected. How much?

I watch a lot of his vids because I like to learn and I'm also always amazed at people who can do what I cannot.

I have the WJ booster with spacer and I extended the rod. Deleted the height sensor. Kept the dist block, no adjustable prop valve. Rear discs. Bias perfect.

Ball joints....ball joints will clunk, if you have had those inspected and you are assured those are not the problem........set that aside. Worn bushings in control arms..........those will clunk, again, if those have been inspected.......set aside. Steering link will clunk, tie rod ends..........if you are assured that is not the problem...............set aside. Gear box to frame, frame can crack, steering box lose.............inspect, tighten. Lastly, and here is where I think your problem is- Track bar- If hole is wallowed at axle end..........clunk. If fours bolts are lose at frame end..........clunk. If rod end at frame bracket is bad.......clunk. If hole on frame bracket where TB rod end is mounted had wallowed.........clunk. None of which may be immediately obvious. Inspect closely, instruct mechanic to inspect closely.

Ultimately every part you will need is available, you'll have to hunt and be patient. Electrical.........EVERY MJ and XJ of the era will come with some electrical problems, every one can be overcome. If you are willing to do the work.........comes down to a clean body or not, just my POV.

Just offering my POV- I have shipped MJ parts to PR and shipping USPS Flat Rate is same as continental US. Cheap. I just sold my MJ tail lights on ebay for $150, fair price for fair condition, buyer paid shipping. I just today shipped a toolbox to a member here, member paid a hefty sum to ship, HEFTY. I texted him a photo of receipt as proof of ship, receipt has all his pertinent information including cost of ship. My mobile devices are invaluable, however- I never ever use mobile devices for anything financial. EVER! If it's important it gets done right here at my desktop. For the very reason you posted.

If half the key remains in the cylinder you may want to get it out before long, eventually something is going to bind up.

Yes it will drone. If you are not going to use the spare tire space you can place the muffler there, no turn down on the tip.........that will minimize the drone.

Interesting speculation here- https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/dealer-pricing-less-than-jl-wrangler.14568/ When I say $80 I'm talking about the fully loaded Mopar version. Mopar has already designed and will provide every 'aftermarket' part under the Mopar name.........heading off the aftermarket world. Leather, sound system, wheels/tires, suspension and ever bit of bolt-on BS you can imagine will be available and my educated guess is exactly that.....with a tight supply- $80K

His idea, from a corporate mindset/perspective, -is the owner of a maxed-out JL @ $70K going to buy a maxed-out Gladiator @ $80K? His idea of a 'die-hard fan' is completely different from yours. None of which applies to any of us. Which I tried to explain.