Jeep Driver

He's got a 2.5. Pump will only get power for 2-3 seconds with key on........will not get power again until start.

The 4 door XJ belts look correct to me. Guess one of us is going to find out sooner or later.

There isn't one of us here who would get past/passed a current electrical inspection, so, let's let compliance rest. I was only going to suggest he do one of two things- Either surface mount a 220 and 110 plug at the existing service panel. And-Or, Get a 20-30 foot length of 8/2 w/ground cable and make his own extension cord. He can use one leg of of the 220 dryer connection for his current 110 welder then simply convert the cord over to 220 when he gets the new welder. It's not his house, until it is, he works with what he's got. Mine is hardwired to the panel, runs both my welders just fine-

Welcome.

Are you comfortable opening up and wiring in a live service panel, breaker or fuse panel? Are you still going to maintain a 110 welder or are you going to a 220?

No, sorry. You introduced 20 year old tires into your question, you did, not me. I have no idea about your convoluted 6 tire rotation system. What you are doing is dangerous, to yourself and others. If you cannot afford new tires......don't' drive. Don't insult me with peanut gallery statements.

Not Cleetus again.............sheeesh.......

I've had my Nissan for 2.5 years now, on my 3rd set of tires. Having ridden sport bikes- never rode on a tire more than three years old......apples to oranges, but.........all tires lose their bite with age. Here- https://www.hagerty.com/articles-videos/articles/2010/02/16/tread-carefully-with-older-tires I don't think I've ever had a set of tires more than three years on anything I've ever owned. I do a lot of stupid things but this ain't one of 'em.

Yes this is who I will be using, here is their non-ebay site- https://www.seatbeltsplus.com/product/Q8496P-2DR-BI.html?gclid=CjwKCAjwy7vlBRACEiwAZvdx9mzn3SAd2EkUoidh1esOCQNQOfhPEfukqRWH6MmFHYUik0hCNH_tHBoC0lwQAvD_BwE

Front to rear only, no cross rotation. I rotate once in a life cycle, then replace. Get new tires........can't believe this is even being discussed.

I just found an o-ring the fit over the tube just a general o-ring any hardware store

On the low end- $8,000 and I doubt you'll find a shop willing to do it that cheap. If you are doing jambs and under hood.......doors are coming off and bed is coming off. I'll have at least $1500+++ in materials and countless hours. Prepare to be laughed at or at least snickered. Most shops won't do full paints, those who do, charge, time is money, shop space is time and money. Body work is not exclusive to paint, good shop may not paint over your work. If you want a blow-n-go..........well, you get what you pay for. I'm doing mine myself for several reasons. I found two shops that were willing to do NOTHING more than spray, both wanted $2000 for booth time and nothing else. I would completely strip the truck, do all body work, prime, sand......all prep and have the cab and bed delivered separately and supply all material. This is for a three stage paint, base-pearl-clear. I'm also painting the frame and underside of bed with single stage enamel, stock color no pearl. And black-out with undercoating. No one is going to give me what I want. I stopped asking around because I realized they did not take me seriously, no one pays 8-10K to paint a $2500 truck. Why don't you get some estimates and report back?

Heims .............NEVER!

Check your fuel pump relay. And your ground behind the driver's tail lamp.

Thank you, I appreciate the comment. It's a lot of work.

You really want an answer to that question? It cannot be just me, have you noticed that everything you eat is bland, tasteless, lacking? Milktoast, our entire society, the majority of the western world, has become bland. Most women are not feminine and most men are not masculine. A homogeneous pile of S---! So, Jeep gave you their glorious version of nutlessness. A feedbag of mass appeal. Tasteless, unimaginative, boring, dull. Enjoy.

18x10 5" backspacing, deep lip.

Any longer and he'll be at the bottom of the shock with no up-travel (short compression stroke). I keep reading statements like this but.............makes no sense to me.

Excellent! Thank you.

Just dying to know.........what did you pay for it?

It's a matter of replacing with new and I might as well go extended.

I need extended rear stops, will the universals work? Will the XJ stops fit? Thanks.

Where you see gray primer..........once the clear is gone the paint will literally wash away. Awesome (cleaner) and a scrubby will wash off the paint. There is not enough to preserve. No sandpaper used.