Jeep Driver

If you have 8g wire to the pos post, you must have 8g wire to ground, ground must be within 2 feet of the amp.

Your problem is not likely a relay if there were a relay. Check the plug near the air box. Or your multi switch has gone south. Pull the connector.....long connector.......off the column, use a test light to find the brights/low circuit, easy to find by toggling the switch, if you have power at the column- either the headlight switch itself is bad or the plug at the air box has fouled.

Your ground wire must be equal to your Pos wire in gauge and must be no longer than 2 feet long......straight to a good ground, not just a sheet metal screw.

My time is too precious.

This is not what I have planned but I cannot believe more people are not more creative. But you get the idea. These aren't bad though.

You can get Baler belt at Rural King by the foot, it's cheap. Can be used for anything, isolating a compressor to floorboards on a tractor to muffler hangers to......... ......padding for a gas tank.

What's paltry?

You BS should be close to 5".........BTW, it's BS you want to look at here. 1 1/4 spacers will put you at 3.75 BS. Will it work? Yes. You are jumping through hoops, personally I'm tired of hoops.

I got a PM a day ago or so....is this the one? I'll get a shipping quote and a pic of it before you buy to see if you still want it in the next couple of days.

Question for you- I like the Ironman long arm set up.....however......... What is the likelihood of getting dual exhaust pipes past the new X-member? I'm going V8 and the X-pipe will be after the X-member.

Now that you have the bracket off....... Drill a hole in the top so you can get an extension through to a socket and hit it with the impact. But, before you waste your time- I know for a fact that the taper is different between the early AMC/Chrysler brackets and the later brackets. New TBs are sold to fit the later brackets. I've experienced this and I've read posts like yours enough to prove the case. 97+ bracket solves the problem. But then............so does going to the HD JKS TB and being done with the BS.

Your bracket is toast. Get one off a 97+ XJ...........and a new TB end or new TB.

You are correct.

I've been watching this build, builder has complained about the time spent videoing the build, here's why- Worth your time, pretty good.

I'm not a Destroyer, many of you are, I am not. I don't mean to sound like an @$$ but I simply have no intention of dragging my truck over rocks and stumps, not my idea of a good time. I want quality, my truck may take me years to complete but every part will be of the best I can afford. I'd like to have crossover steering, however, I already have my Wilwood brakes, I have already sourced my knuckles and have those prepped, I'm not willing to give up my Wilwood for WJ knuckles and piss-poor braking. If I were to build an axle from scratch I'd consider moving the TB.........I'd only do that if I were to consider long arms, I'd only consider long arms with independent uppers and lowers, not the BS combo arms I see everyone with. Trade-offs, you accept one thing at the expense of another. And again I'd have to consider my brakes, I'd have to be able to retain my Wilwoods (I really want the 6 pot and 15" rotors for the JK). "1 Tons"? I've yet to see a stock Jeep, or any other for that matter, tie rod end shear. Wear out and come apart? Sure, but it's called simple maintenance, every part requires maintenance. New wheels came a week ago, new tires will be the metric equivalent of 35-12.50. I'm currently looking for a SBC block........I've been back and forth on how I want to build this engine, may go mild in the 350-400hp range with the expectation of a Wipple supercharger which could put me near the 600hp range, if and when I can afford it. The only thing I'd change in my current front end is RCV axles. Why the Synergy? I looked around, studied what others have done, dollar for dollar, $550 well spent.

It's called a torque dampener. Unbolt it and throw it in the trash. You can find aftermarket from $100 to $300, universal. Build yourself a set of engine mounts, you'll be happy.

I would have voted but you left off the option- That S--- doesn't belong on my truck.

You take the guy a little too literally, he's a geek, a nerd, bit of a soft man. That said, I suspect that 'truck' will out drive you, road coarse or straight away. Electric is the future.

700hp and 800tq and 0-60 in 3 seconds. Just short of a Demon. But exceeds the Demon in torque. If I could afford it I'd be all over it.

This is why I'm going to create hide-a-way back up lights.

If you do go with the auto (mistake) just know that the pedal assembly has value, there are guy here who need those.

That injector will piss all over the place when it functions, you will know it when you see it. If you are by yourself, you can leave the ignition on, using a test lead/jumper to the starter........looking down the throat of the TBI you will see if the injector is squirting while the engine turns over.

You claim the fuel relay chatters/stammers between open and close.........is this correct? Put everything back together, just the way it is supposed to be. Unplug the fuel pump at the fuel pump. Does the relay still chatter? If it does, you have a wiring problem. If it does not, reconnect the pump, does it chatter now? If it does, you have a bad pump. When you 'bench test' a pump you are cramming magic pixies down it's throat, that does not mean it is good in it's intended state/environment.

I'm usually very good at reading exactly what someone states. Here you state that fuel is running out underneath the intake. You realize that the TBI requires pressure to function, correct? If you are not building pressure the injector will not squirt. That said, I'm well aware of the pump needing modification, I did mine, but you still have either an electrical problem that needs to be resolved or a bad pump.......something is causing the relay to stammer.