Jeep Driver

Reclocking the AX5 is the simplest part of your swap, nothing to it. Just take your time drilling the holes, and yes, you'll want to worry about the clearance. I scour the SE often looking for 2.5 MJ/XJ (looking for a flywheel now) and they are virtually non-existent. Take what you can get and regear later.

Thank you jeepmurphy@gmail.com

New engine, new NOS TBI, new 55lbs injector, all sensors are OEM except ECM temp sensor for which I'm currently looking for, AMC or Mopar. Engine runs perfectly with one exception, it runs rich. I contacted the company that I got the TBI from and explained the situation, I got a quick lesson in tuning injector to the engine. My fuel pressure gauge came today, it will be permanently attached to the TBI, no more guessing or wondering. My MJ is slated for a new dual exhaust next month, I'm waiting to replace my springs (military wrap group buy) before the exhaust so I don't have to work around the cans and tips. No Cat now, no Cat in the future. I'm going to have the speed shop that's doing the exhaust weld a second bung in for a wide band AFR gauge in the future. For now, knowing the fuel pressure will at least give the injector shop some information to work with. Why am I explaining my current situation? I'll tell what a Cat would have done, masked a rich condition. I see all kinds of FP numbers and guys swapping this injector and that. The only exception are guys running superchargers, no one else making an effort to tune their engines. Cats will not save the world, nor my great great great grandkids.

Who and how much? I need mine done.

This is precisely why I chose the JKS. Frame brackets for every one that I looked at at the time either dropped down, or, and. moved forward. Also, I like the factory bracket, it has a bulged pressed in for strength, the aftermarket bracket look weak.

If you measure back on your AX15 case I think you'll find the mount plate holes are in the same place.........they are on the AX5............2w to 4w are exactly the same. My 2w used the same mount and Xmember as the 4w...........may be something as simple as you have the Xmember turned around. I'd figure this out before you start drilling holes.

Please do. I'd love to have.........I would have.......a complete custom cluster myself but I cannot find gauges small enough.

Looking way down the road to replacing the spring pack (next winter). I am inclined to go with a original 3+1 spring pack simply for a more comfortable ride match to a good set of shocks all the way around. Then to cover extra weight capacity, when needed, use a set of air bags on the rear axle. Does anyone have experience with this on their Comanche they would like to share? Thanks I did just that, you'll be looking to replace the front springs too. You'll end up with about 2"+ of lift over where you are now. The standard springs are comfortable with about 1200 lbs of load..........I picked up a load of marble that was weighed at 1200lbs. I'm in line for the military wrap springs, Joe tells me I might get 3/4-1" of lift beyond where I'm at now..........which is good. ACOS in the front, easy to level out. Ride is comfortable to me but stiff, which I like, Bilstein 5125. Just expect that one thing leads to another.......always does.

http://www.quadratec.com/products/16007_0009_07.htm Mine was set more than two years ago and remains untouched. I like simplicity, the lack of a sleeve is a non issue for me. As I stated in the other thread, I'm moving mine to the XJ and buying a new one for the MJ in the next couple of months when It comes time for the WJ swap.

I'll give you a tip. I can't remember exactly........but I used aluminum bar stock, might have been 1/2" x 3/8" x 4". Lay it across the JJ under the bracket, between the two, it acts as a stop and keeps the JJ parallel with the bracket when you go to tighten the jamb nut at the axle end.

I went and got one from a '98XJ, IIRC, the washer would not sit flat and the taper was different for the MJ. The taper is different for the later models and the sleeve fit better on the later bracket. At any rate, I had movement, the '98 solved that problem. Plus, the paired/plated bolts are nice. It's a good TB, I've had mine for better than two years with no issues. Mine will move to the XJ and I'm buying a new one for the MJ. You'll enjoy it.

Precisely what happened to my last AX5. I was told by a mechanic at a Jeep shop that the countershaft bearing had let loose allowing the gears to bind. I had to drive home on a Friday night 2 hours away with only 3rd gear..........quite an experience. When I goes.......it's gone.

I have to crank my engine for at least 5-10 seconds ( sometimes more than once) every time the engine is cold. I've done all of Cruisers tips, replaced the coolant temp sensor with a brand new Mopar one, tried several junk yard IAT sensors and not a single one has been able to fix my problem. Once my engine gets even the slightest bit warm it'll start right up :???: That is also the sign of a failing fuel pump or regulator.

http://www.high-impact.net/transmission_and_gear/stick_nv3550.htm New OEM NV3550, no core charge, $1250 I'd go this route if I could find a Dakota bell. Specs are also shown in the link above.

Found this elsewhere- "The Renix ECU basically stops functioning when the Key is turned off... that's not a good thing because your XJ was just running with the idle stepper motor (ICS) set to idle a warm motor at 650rpm or whatever... "The idle air requirements for a warmed motor are no where near the air requirements to start a cold motor... so the B+ Latch relay was added to the system (by Renix in the level I implementation of this ECU line - never released in the US, but found in Renaults) . When you shut off your key, the B+ Latch relay continues to power the ECU so that the ICS backs-out and is ready to admit the additional air-flow required for your next start (time of the latch is a second or so and is 'controlled' by the ECU). "Additionally, the B+ line (in the ECU) provides the ECU with a clean and seperate power source (since it passes though the relay and not all the way though a noisy switch) -- This is useful for items like injector and/or ignition drivers where there are very-square output waveforms that would ordinarily drive noise back through power supplies and into other more delicate circuitry (ie: the knock sensor amplifier and/or the TPS and MAP voltage regulators).

Tire Pressure Monitor System.....TPMS They would be meaningless to you without the rest of the system.

Yeah, I probably should have stated pairs rather than sets. Surely he's aware how many guys want pairs, I suspect he'd check in here and take a final count.

I called Joe two weeks ago and told him that I wanted a set. He said he was making at least 12 sets. He took my number but I have not heard anything yet.

I had the poly. It was not necessarily the physical vibration, that I could have lived with, it was the reverberation of every part of the truck, the sound was horrific.

On the subject of engine mounts- I had already gone through 2 sets of aftermarket mounts, so, I decided to order Brown Dog mounts. Once installed, the vibration was intolerable. I also had another problem to resolve, I needed to lower the engine to gain room for the CAI (carb hat). Some time ago there as a guy looking for mounts for a '98 XJ, Euro-diesel IIRC, the mount inserts were similar to those pictured below, that gave me the idea of looking around. NAPA has a counter book with about 100 different mount inserts, I chose the off-set mounts, this allowed me lower the engine about 7/8". If you have the ability to make your own, I highly recommend it. I now have virtually no engine torque-roll movement and the vibes are no more than you would expect with any late model car or truck. And yeah, on the 2.5, the oil filter has to come off to get the bolt out.

Where did you find your new overflow and washer bottles?

Could be your idle air control. I also have low idle, in my case I have one cylinder with low compression that is evident at idle....and........I suspect my O2 needs to be replaced (burns rich). I have a new engine waiting so I'll live with it until the new install.

The 'bouncing' part tells me that you have a bad connection, check your wire/connector or replace your sender or check ground to gauge cluster. Or your sender is not making a clean contact with the block. I would run a fine bead of thread sealant about 3-4 threads up from the end of the sender, that way the sender can make contact with the block and I can still get some sealant on upper portion of the thread. As for the fluctuation- it should........increase RPM and increase pressure. Mine rests around 35-40 at idle and I can increase to about 50 by tapping the throttle. (whether gauge is accurate......another matter)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GsgVspgy184

Never ever scrap a 2.5, they are getting hard to find.