Jeep Driver

Probably easy to swap the lower bushing from your existing shock.

Was your Mopar chain tight? I've had 2 Cloyes sets be sloppy out of the box, and before I drop $100 on a new Mopar silent set I want to be sure that won't happen (and be sure it isn't just an aftermarket part in a mopar box). The Cloyes chain I have now is only a little bit tighter than the original and announces its presence loudly. Sent from my LG-D850 using Tapatalk Here is a pic of mine, don't recall any slop. Where did you buy your Cloyes? I only get my hard parts from Summit or Jeggs or Mopar. You might find this interesting- http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/just-destroyed-the-crank-sprocket-on-a-brand-new-cloyes-timing-set-for-sbc.736749/ And I just went to Cloyes site, still made in the USA.

Yes, I too want those plates, where? Please.

Note the absence of the little lugs on the bottom of the cover where the gasket goes, I ground them off, the blue Felpro gaskets fits much better, no leaks. Lugs are shown here-

You likely have blow-by, crankcase pressure, you'll never get it to stop leaking. I suggest an aluminum cover from a 90s Wrangler. There's a 90% chance you'll destroy the cover taking it off, they get brittle with age. So, the chance of you altering/modifying without damaging the cover is slim. Plastic is still available, if you want a plastic replacement, I suggest having the new one before you remove the old one. My setup is a little different now but this was the replacement-

One of our saving graces........ 2.5 and 4.0 internals are mostly all the same, timing sets, oil pumps, con rods, push rods, rockers, pistons, tappets,....etc......regardless of year. FWIW to you, I purchased a Mopar Performance double roller, came in a Mopar package, was Cloyes.

http://www.billavista.com/Tech/Articles/Driveshaft_Bible/index.html

https://www.moparpartsoverstock.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=995102&ukey_make=1097&ukey_model=15916&modelYear=1988&ukey_category=22690 This is what I find every time I visit one of the dealer sites.........NLA.

I watch for NOS parts, AMC, Mopar, they are out there, just have to dig for it. Here is an example: http://www.ebay.com/itm/232107023716?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT And here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/231423893970?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT And find a dealer with a friendly and intelligent counter man, dealers have access to "Vintage Parts", just as they do their own parts. I just bought two new Mopar rad mounts for my '88, there where only 9 left in the country and I got two of them through my local dealer via Vintage Parts. I just bought two new NOS Mopar/Seimens/Renix/Bendix TPSs, manufactured in '03. And a copper rad that had sat in a warehouse since '91 for my '88. Buy now, this stuff won't be around in a year or two.

http://spicerparts.com/calculators/driveshaft-safe-operating-rpm-calculator

Yes, it's that sensitive.

Those are nice gauges. I would connect it the existing wire at the dash first and see how correct the gauge reads.........then go from there. I'm afraid your mech pump will not draw fuel through the existing pump. I think you'll have to remove the pump and install hose in its place. If you do remove the pump from inside the tank, I would cut and end the pos wire to the pump on the outside of the tank. I would not want a hot wire just dangling in the tank with nowhere to go.

Here is what the inside of a NSS looks like. Some writeups will tell you to smear dielectic grease on the contacts, do not do this, you'll be taking it apart in a week or so and cleaning it again. Simply clean the contacts with some 800 grit sandpaper and reassemble.

Aside from a multi-meter and a test light, you should have a test lead. A piece of wire about 5' long with an alligator clip at each end. Attach one end of the wire to the small post on the starter, with the ign on, touch the other end to the pos post on the battery. The engine should turn over and start. This is how you test for a bad NSS, takes all of 30 seconds to perform. If yours does not.....you look to have two problems. The fact that you are getting fuel but no spark, (meaning that you ignition circuit is hot) I would first suspect a bad or damaged CPS. From there- Take a test light and check every fuse. Check every connector, every end of your wiring harness. You should have tagged/labeled every connector before you disassembled, even if it seemed obvious. According to your sig line, you have a 98 XJ at your disposal, the two harnesses should be identical, you can study that harness to make certain your MJ harness is correct. Could be something as simple as a bad coil, you have one on the XJ to test with. After checking every fuse, every connector, CPS, coil......ect..........worst case is you'll have to break open your looms and start tracing wires down (broken or cut wires). Once you set your mind to it, it's not that difficult nor is it as intimidating as it looks.

Minimum diameter is 3" at 4', I don't think a shop will retube an XJ shaft.

And I'm suggesting he may not even have an NSS problem. What OP do you mean by a full 97 swap? I'm a little confused how you say for sure the NSS isn't the problem. And if it isn't, what else could it be? NSS can cause a no crank condition and yes there is a chance it isn't the problem, however it is the most likely cause of the no crank. And a 97 swap is taking an MJ and a 97-01 XJ and putting everything from the drivetrain, interior, wiring, the front body panels, and in my case the axles from the XJ in the MJ. Basically the only thing original to the MJ is the main body itself.Set the NSS issue aside. If you have everything connected correctly, it should start and run, regardless of the NSS. The fact that it does not, the NSS is not the culprit. This doesn't make sense. Youre basically saying that as long as it's connected it works? So by that I should assume that a battery being connected, having 12v or 1v, it should still work? Parts can go bad and cause problems. I don't understand what you are trying to say other than ignore the NSS. The NSS can in fact cause a no crank if it's bad and is the most likely cause in this case. That's not to say that other things aren't causing problems but it's best to start troubleshooting with the most likely culprit first. Do as Hornbrod suggests.

And I'm suggesting he may not even have an NSS problem. What OP do you mean by a full 97 swap? I'm a little confused how you say for sure the NSS isn't the problem. And if it isn't, what else could it be? NSS can cause a no crank condition and yes there is a chance it isn't the problem, however it is the most likely cause of the no crank. And a 97 swap is taking an MJ and a 97-01 XJ and putting everything from the drivetrain, interior, wiring, the front body panels, and in my case the axles from the XJ in the MJ. Basically the only thing original to the MJ is the main body itself. Set the NSS issue aside. If you have everything connected correctly, it should start and run, regardless of the NSS. The fact that it does not, the NSS is not the culprit.

I guess he's local to you? Yeah, that's real nice work.

And I'm suggesting he may not even have an NSS problem. What OP do you mean by a full 97 swap?

It won't keep it from running. Keeping the engine from starting except in park or neutral is what it's there for. My truck would intermittently not want to start in park. Turn the key to start, and nothing happened... cleaning the NSS has fixed it for 4 years now. It disrupts the starter circuit, NOT the ignition. I made arrangement for my wife to get new tires last month.........that's why I have a current pic.......... I stole this XJ four years ago for $1,000. Bad NSS. I had it towed from the seller so that he would not be pissed. Got it home, jumped the starter............been the best (spotless inside) used vehicle I've ever owned for $1000.

Then you have another problem, it ain't the NSS.

My shaft cost $225 new, with new Spicer joints. The only thing I supplied was the slip joint and the measurement. By the time you buy one, have it shortened, install new joints..............$225 starts to look like a bargain.

Bad or dirty NSS will not keep the engine from starting. Jump the starter with the ign on and start the engine before you take off the NSS.

Same Xmember and mount. You'll want a new rear DS, I wouldn't.........didn't.........bother with the stock DS. Tube in tube design and I doubt you'll find a good drive line shop that will shorten it.

It's the ZJ shafts you want. I switched and will never go back to ujount shafts.