Jeep Driver

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Starter-Relay-Standard-SR-123-/261897757391?fits=Year%3A1988%7CMake%3AJeep&hash=item3cfa52a2cf:g:Mg8AAOSwjVVVk-zy&vxp=mtr . http://www.ebay.com/itm/Crown-Automotive-33003934-Relay-Starter-Usage-12-V-Jeep-Each-/191824083835?fits=Year%3A1988%7CMake%3AJeep&hash=item2ca99b3b7b:g:HEAAAOSwZ8ZW5MgN&vxp=mtr Not recommending the sellers, just the two versions I have found.

Double Six, Once you have ruled out any kind of mechanical failure- also inspect the inside of the dist cap and rotor. There are four black wires coming off the dipstick bracket, those are your sensor ground wires, you need to inspect those, they run all the way to the C101. There are also splices in the grounds from the factory inside the loom, check those. Clean your grounds. Inspect the plug to the CPS, inspect the wire to the CPS. If you have another dead CPS, replace it, again. Here is a recommendation- http://www.morris4x4center.com/crankshaft-position-sensor-33004761.html.....I just bought two of these myself elsewhere, but they are out of stock now. The only other thing I can suggest is the coil. My coil went out on the road, there is no warning, they just die. I doubt this is your problem, but you cannot rule it out. CPS, wiring condition, or coil, it's going to be one of the three if it's not mechanical. That would be my approach if i were in your position. Hope that helps and you get back home. Edit, I'm assuming your ignition circuit is hot, I suppose it's possible that the ignition switch has failed but still kick in the starter.......IDK but that's easy enough to check.

How is indexing the distributor going to increase the output of the CPS by a factor of ten? And, if it ran fine one day but wouldn't start the next day -- how would the distributor have gotten out of index? Alright, since you asked- IIRC, in the other thread he had fuel and SPARK. Secondly, you are assuming that the .05 reading is correct, I am not. Thirdly, Second CPS...........I'd be looking around at other things. That said, he likely bought a POS Autozone CPS, I have made comments about OEM, Mopar, Renix..........most of you prefer the $16 store brand junk. So, it's possible the he possesses two dead CPSs. Lastly, it will literally take two to thee minutes to turn the crank to TDC and pull the dist cap to see if you are anywhere near #1. So, why not?

OK. I'll just mention........ The other guy rejected my suggestion as well. But, he did do a compression test, 0 compression, which is also a symptom of a broken chain. He did a compression test that must have taken him an hour, but he refused to check timing, that I could do in 5 minutes. Oh well. He still refused to check timing even after the compression test.

You could get an HO housing and insert a thermo switch and wire the fan independently. And forget about it. Your 12v should be running through a relay, not a switch. Your housing will look different than mine ........however........

If I recall you have the 2.5, correct? You are the second one in the last month that has reported the exact same symptoms. High miles? I'm always suspicious when someone says 'it jumped time', but in your case.......maybe. Or your timing chain has broken. Look up "distributor indexing". Cruiser has a tutorial, surely.

Don't know what to tell ya............. May be that the doughnut was used for the '84-'86 engines. Here is mine that came with my Felpro master gasket set for the 2.5

Index your distributor and see where you are.

Big Dan, I appreciate your response. I bought one off ebay that arrived today, looks to be in better condition than the one that's in the truck currently. So, If nothing else......I'm good. I posted on four other forums, 2 XJ and 2 YJ, only two of you said you were interested. I was willing to send this one off to Cali and have it measured and quoted but it appears that we cannot find enough people to put this together. I found a willing manufacture and I thought it would be nice to put something back on the market that currently does not exist. There are 4-5 left on ebay, used will run you about $100 with shipping...some offer free....then another $50 to have it resurfaced, if it can be resurfaced. So, the reality is that you could have a NEW flywheel for about $100 more than a used flywheel. Just about everything else I have manged to find/buy, the flywheel is the one exception. Eventually there will be nothing, may take a few more years, but, eventually.

I just want the front brake calipers.

Sending unit is grounded directly through the assembly, tank is strapped, straps ground the tank. I don't think the tank will need any further ground.

60.00 1967 Cougar 60.00 1958-1960 Edsel 61.00 1964-1971 Ford Full Size 61.00 1949-1951 Mercury 61.25 1957-1972 Ford F-100 Pickup 61.25 1960-1964 Ford Full Size 61.25 1971-1973 Mustang 61.25 1967-1973 Torino, Ranchero, Fairlane http://carnut.com/specs/rear.html It is a great choice.......but............spendy. I believe the measurements above are WMS to WMS.........ought to give you a place to start looking.

http://www.roadkill.com/840-horsepower-2018-dodge-demon-runs-14-mile-in-9-65-seconds-lifts-front-tires-and-has-valet-mode/

I have searched high and low, none exist. Seeking interest in a group buy. AASCO will engineer and produce a lot of 10. A one-off will run about $2500, number based on a one-off they just made. 10 or more should get the number down below $250 each. They can be produced in aluminum with replaceable friction plate or in steel. Ring gears are available. Looking for those of us who have keepers and are serious about keeping our MJ/XJs on the road.

Spring has always gone inboard on every seal I've installed.

This sounds right. With the old Corvairs you could pick up 10-15 real horses by loosing the fan belt for a quarter mile run. Made a difference! But, that fan power goes up on a steep curve as the engine rpm goes up. So at 70 mph on the highway and 2500 rpm, fan power is nowhere near 15 horsepower, that is a 5K rpm number. 1 horsepower = 746 watts of electricity. The battery has to be charged from the engine/alternator - so their is no net change in power over the long run. Yes, the battery can store power for later use, so there is some time shifting of the engine power. But over the long run, it has to be a wash (disregarding conversion losses). This is why the clutch fan is popular, it trims the horsepower cost to run the fan at high speeds I'm not going to convince anyone of anything....not trying to. Down the interstate/hwy at 70mph is not where you are looking for peak HP or torque. Fans don't run at 70mph............that is the point of an Efan..........they are not supposed to run. Cheap fans, poorly installed/wired, poor cooling systems...etc........has given the Efans a bad rap.

Fuel pressure?

Even better from relatively new springs! Question will be which/what relatively new springs? Looking forward to the new/old measurements General Spring standard MJ springs. The military wrap was not available at the time, 2 years ago. These new springs are MUCH better made, even the bushings are of higher quality.

Using the top of axle tube to bottom of the frame measurement, mine was a exactly 10", now sits at 11.25" . Also seen here, truck sat level before- I got my last set of U-bolts at American Trailer Supply, made to order, $49.75 I called to get another set and they said they no longer had their bolt machine and they referred me to OG Hughes and Sons, 9/16x8 with washers and deep nuts, $25.50, grade 8. You guys should check out the heavy truck repair/accessory shops- bolts, every kind of D-ring, straps, wenches, light bars....etc....lot of this stuff can be used on Jeeps. So, I found this, dock bumpers- Will have to make up an adapter/mounting plate, but, if they can take 80,000lbs ramming a dock.......they can take a little axle action. $16 for the pair, can't beat that.

How many bleeders have you rounded off or broke in the last 30 years you've been wrenching? I have, plenty, in my more than 30 years of bleeding brakes, did so just 2 months ago. And you expect a check valve inside a bleeder to work 4 years from now? Gimmick. That's why I have no experience with them. I'm trying real hard to be positive. :)

I have a set of these and have never installed them. From those of you that have used and/or are currently using them to bleed your brakes, what's your real world opinion on how efficiently they work? The old helper/pump/stop/hold/pump/etc. system is getting, well, old. I've searched and haven't found anything worthwhile here regarding using speed bleeders. I have not used the bleeders. However, since going to the mightyvac..............there is no other way. I clear my lines now when I bleed. You can pull an entire line through in 3-4 minutes by yourself.......only way.

Surely, this is the one he is looking at- https://boone.craigslist.org/pts/6019005508.html The seller doesn't even know what year it is. But, for $150...........your core on a rebuilt will be that.........or..........$150 for a 23 spline TC...............you are still at $300 for a trans/TC combo. OP, go look at it, count the spline.

I'm an anti-purist, my vote is- do what you want.

AW4s did come behind the 2.5 but are extremely rare, this would be the 3rd that I have become aware of in the last 7 years. OP should post a pic, that would be helpful. At a glance he should be able to tell if the trans belongs behind the 2.5, bells are very different, no mistaking those.

Yes, manifold to down pipe.