Jeep Driver

I had to change two freeze plugs in my Kubota today. Years ago, in another truck I had, I had the Efan wired live. When I shut the engine down, the fan would cycle through several times in about an 8 minute period. I never really understood what was happening until I got a diesel tractor. I'm posting this for those who have, or believe they have, heat soak, or for anyone else that want's be become creative with their Efan. Once you shut your engine down, the coolant continues to flow, your thermostat continues to open and close until siphoning no longer takes place. I'm guessing, somewhere between 150 and 160 degrees. Many tractors, machines, and other industrial equipment rely solely on thermsiphoning as a means of cooling. My Kubota, for example, does not have a water pump. Just something to think about for those who want to take advantage of what is naturally happening anyway. By the time you run into a 7-11, fill your Big Gulp and pay for it, your temp should be down around 130 degrees with a live Efan. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermosiphon

My rears have never locked. We are dealing with rear discs here.

Remove sensing valve.......trash can. Cut and flare rear brake hardline at frame. Attach soft line to axle. Cut and remove/discard sensor line. Install plug at front of block. Bleed. Enjoy. It's that simple, really.

You really should try it with the MJ block first. The plug will cost you about a $buck.

That could be O2 sensor also. Which is the point I've been trying to make to you. You can swap to a carb........but..........If your O2, TPS, temp, CPS, IAT, MAP, ignition module, coil, ECM, wiring/grounds........fails...........no ignition or erratic ignition. Also, don't forget plugs, wires, caps. And, don't forget, you have EGR on that thing, you could have an EGR valve stuck open......who knows? That would also cause problems. You gotta look at the bigger picture, not just carb or TBI. And, FWIW, there is nothing at all complicated about the TBI, in fact it's much simpler than a carb, regulator and injector, that's it. Injectors are still available.

OK, I understand. I've been dealing same frustration for 5 years. That's why I rebuilt and spent months looking for NOS or Mopar sensors........the best of every part I could find.........I went through all my wiring........etc...... Yeah, I get it. Stick with it, it will be a learning experience for you too. Try the carb. I won't post links to other forums but there are others who have done the conversion, do a little more research and see what you can learn from others. It' a very slow moving site but you might try 4bangerjp.com just 2.5 jeep guys there.

Look, I'll let you go here......... I'm suggesting that you may have a timing problem.........I'm not sure how you manage that. I know that others have done what you have done, but the bottom line is you still have to manage ignition. And, I see no real benefit if you are not willing to explore intake and exhaust. I have not fiddled with a carb in twenty years and I would not look in that direction myself. I am looking to repower and I will go aftermarket fuel injection with a stand alone engine management system. 2.5s are 100K to 150K engines........that's my opinion......after that...........I suspect you have low compression numbers, chain stretch has put retarded at the crank, you likely have some blow-by, and who know where your timing is, what sensors are bad......etc....... You are looking for something out of a 2.5 that it just isn't willing to give you. I spent a lot of money and time and effort, it was a great learning experience, but I would not do it again. If you insist, I would look to small Weber 2 barrel, I would go the the MPI intake, I would make my own adapter. But, that will just lead to another chasing, more money, more time.....etc.......

OK. You are complaining that you get poor gas mileage, correct? Secondary complaint is that it will not rev very high or there is a loss of power in the upper RPMs, correct? What are you doing about TPS?

A carb alone is not going to give you a 5K 2.5.............clearly you missed my point regarding intake and exhaust. You cannot alter/swap/change one part or one part of a system WITHOUT altering/changing/swapping other parts of other systems. My 2.5 runs right on through 5K even with the pathetic TBI.

Still curious as to what you have planned for a distributor? How are you going to manage ignition timing? If you are going to a carb to bypass Renix......????????...........you will still have to maintain Renix for ignition/timing. If you cannot manage Renix, how are you going to tune a carb to sporadic ignition timing? As far as I know, there are no non-electronic distributors for AMC/Chrysler 2.5s.

I have an '88 Renix. What am I missing here?

Here is the adapter I made for mine, I don't have any pics that compare bore sizes, the MPI is about 40% larger. MPI intake flows extremely well............but you'll choke it up with the stock exhaust. I'm curious as to what distributor you plan to use? http://www.jegs.com/i/Holley/510/12-881/10002/-1?CAWELAID=230006180039030301&CAGPSPN=pla&CAAGID=44693592161&CATCI=aud-224375369591:pla-193247796071&CATARGETID=230006180039218476&cadevice=c&gclid=CjwKEAjw4IjKBRDr6p752cCUm3kSJAC-eqRt1O_yT3nawAWykJ3rnNb_TWeY7SsuULe3ZrUwV0SO9BoCOB7w_wcB I would keep the existing pump and plumb in a regulator...........return line is right next to the pressure line. TBI fuel is regulated at 14lbs and the pump barely keeps up. I's also suggest a fuel pressure gauge.

If you want the full benefit of a carb...........go with the MPI intake. Stock TBI intake is very restrictive............IOWs, they suck. Also, the MPI allows for a larger throated carb. Also, the heated intake............total myth, complete BS.

I'm ordering these and the Frenching buckets on Friday, http://www.speedwaymotors.com/1941-1948-Chevy-LED-Tail-Light-Assembly,7956.html

84-86 were 7/16, so, depending on when your '86 was built, could be 1/2 or 7/16. You'll need to pull one and measure. There are 10 of them, Summit has them for $2.97...............$30 ain't expensive.

Tex, I won't buy another thing from Amix-Ada, poor quality in my opinion. jeepair, I was arranging an entire new system from them, since I'm now going V8............AC is going to be a while. I'd call jeepair before you order.

I have a SMP TPS, T20, I paid $5 for it, dealer closeout. NOS, maybe it's a good one......? but I doubt it :P

Gotta start somewhere.

If you're not moving coolant above idle............water pump.

I'm curious as to what brand is available to you and what do you consider cheap?

You can read Amsoil's take on the matter here- https://www.amsoil.com/newsstand/classic-and-vintage/articles/reduced-zddp-and-wear-protection/ Before anyone starts throwing $90 oil changes at a ragged out 200K engine, thinking that they will suddenly achieve high zinc 'protection'..........ain't gonna matter one bit. On a new engine? Sure. My opinion.

If you're going with the Dakota bell............you're going to have to go with the newer assembly anyway, pretty sure about that. You may be able to piece something together from Wilwood or other.......but........you're going to spend $200+ regardless.

Below is one my old masters I had laying around, a typical Sachs or store brand aftermarket. Mopar sold a repair kit for their clutch master for about $40, I found one a couple of years ago and I should have bought it, I cannot find another and they have been discontinued. IIRC, the repair kit had two plungers, the kits I can find pics for have at least a plastic follower at the end of the cartridge, below you will note an aluminum follower and only one plunger. At least on my '88, the pin on the clutch pedal arm is a little low and it does not push the rod into the master straight, if you get a clicking sound when you push your pedal in, it is the rod making contact with the master housing/bore itself. The fix is to bend the rod down slightly, this compensates for the arc of the pedal arm. I never had one leak, they just seem to fail, maybe they suck in air.......IDK. I finally broke down a bought a complete Mopar master/slave, problem solved, however, I did bend the Mopar rod too. If you were close, maybe you are, I'd give you a complete 94+ bell, then you could go with the more modern Mopar master and be problem free. I had a spare Mopar master that I chucked before I realized what I had..........wish I had saved it. The aftermarkets are just poorly designed.

Did someone mention 44 Cult? Couldn't resist.