Jeep Driver

Are you putting it in backwards somehow? The plastic piece you are missing will not allow you to install it backwards.........but.............since you don't have the plastic piece...............maybe?

Don't know, can't even guess at that one. But, something ain't right.

Go to your local automotive paint store and discuss 'adhesion promoter' or 'bonding primer' and plasticiser for the paint (additive to paint to allow it to flex). Plastic will need to be cleaned, and cleaned, and cleaned........then allow to dry before application. Don't rattle can it and expect much. I haven't gotten around to mine yet, but, I will.

That's a late model CPS, what year flywheel do you have?

Agreed. I took a pic of this side too.

Rules? I'll break the rules. Found this today.

I'd grind the end down smooth and then drill and tap for a stud. That's just me.

Bushwacker

Something went awry.

Thank you Jeep Driver! Would / should I flush the entire system as well after I put it back together? I'd replace the water pump too while I was there, stick a hose in the block and wash it out until the water comes clear.

There is nothing wrong with that housing, clean it up. Crud is from 15 years of non-service. I would just wash out with a water hose. Acid flush will cause that muck to loosen up and cause overheating......unless you are prepared for multiple-multiple flushes, and even then......... I never use RVT where water/coolant is present, Permatex #2.

If they had the 242 tcase they were not CAD. I have an early non-CAD axle in my truck. What is the bigger picture on this? You want stock width, stock bolt pattern, bolt in a housing (no changing brackets on the axle itself), with really big brakes? Why? What are you doing with it? I've mentioned it before, but I really regret not just getting a set of JK axles and using them. There is bolt on big brake kits for them, and the brakes they come with are massive compared with the MJ/XJ stuff anyways. Plus you already get crossover steering. And, I've realized I'm rubbing the frame in the rear, so the width would have been nice. Oh, and IMHO those cartridge TREs are a great money grab. No thanks. Why not run the generic '1-ton' stuff? The advantage of it is it's available. Anywhere. Plus their generally isn't strength or longevity issues with it providing you buy decent TREs. A little inspiration...........watch at around 6.00 minutes.

What is the bigger picture on this? You want stock width, stock bolt pattern, bolt in a housing (no changing brackets on the axle itself), with really big brakes? Why? What are you doing with it? It's going to be driven, hard. I just wanted to swap knuckles for 'big brakes'. I want Brembos and 14" rotors..........just what I want, but may have to settle for 4pot WIlwoods. Hey, if Jay Leno uses Wilwoods........... :P

You'll need to make a longer rod to compensate for the amount of lift.

Got it. The crap I go through for MJ parts............................. Road construction and accidents, just got home. Kings Mountain, NC. Backroads, BFE, Billy Bob, Deliverance comes to mind.

It really is not that difficult to open up your harness and inspect and replace wiring and connectors. It would be a great learning experience for you, it was for me.

Thank you.

looks early to me, calipers, just want to make sure

I just contacted a seller of a 1988 D30, Pic indicates non-cad. I'm going after the early knuckle. Did jeep use non-cad d30s in 1988? Maybe with the 242? I need to leave in an hour, axle is 156 miles away............can't find a straight answer with search. Help is appreciated.

80s jeep just don 't exist anymore...........jeeesh.......... Found one axle for an '88 about 150 miles away but is not CAD. I thought all d30s of that era were CAD. Did some come non-CAD?

Being a finish man for the last 32+ years.............I've used every commonly found solvent there is at different times for different reasons. The only two solvents that are not considered 'HOT', that are readily available to him, are going to be mineral spirits and alcohol. Acetone, ethyl acetate, is found in nail polish remover, why? it removes paint. Alcohol, is found in window cleaner, deicer, leaves no residue, is not harmful to most painted surfaces, is water soluble and can be washed away with water. When I cleaned mine, since I was going from mineral to PAG, I wanted to get the system as clean as possible. I first washed with mineral spirits then chased with alcohol to remove the spirits. The only way the OP is going to chase out whatever solvent he uses out of the evap is with the use of compressed air. Since I seriously doubt he has a $4000 dryer behind his $300 compressor, he's going to be introducing atmosphere (humidity/condensation/water) into the evap, as I said, alcohol is water soluble/compatible. Being that he is going to use compressed air, that he is leaving the evap in the truck, he is going to be atomizing the solvent. I don't how careful you are, you are going to be getting solvent all over the general area of the evap ports. Any other solvent, other than the two I mentioned, are going to eat the painted surfaces immediately. Even if you are able to wash it down (soap and water), the solvent will absorb into the paint and relieve it at the metal surface. I'm not an AC expert, I just know what to expect from whatever solvent he's going to use. If it were me, since the only part he's retaining is the evap, I'd just blow it out with air and be done with it. It's not as dirty as you might think anyway. I'm not writing a dissertation paper when I give a quick answer here, but there is always a reason for my opinion.

Stock sagged-out springs with 31s and WJ LCAs. No rubbing of any kind. I don't know why people keep saying you have to go up 4" to clear 31s?

Not even with a supercharged 4.0? :D Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk Read all the threads of disappointed XJ owners who went down that rabbit hole. Over and over and over. Very current thread from 'elsewhere'.................I have read this statement dozens of times. I learn from the mistakes of others. Spending thousands of dollars chasing the illusive HP/torque from a 4.0 No thanks.

There's no way I'd repower with a 4.0, not now. Let the purists pounce. There is just that thread ongoing here, I remained silent.

Denatured alcohol. Evacuate with compressed air. Rinse, repeat.