Jeep Driver

96* my bad came with Aw4 and anp242 thats in my MJ now Since your '96 was a Sport, it had 3.55 gears. I will second the advice to look for a 97+ 8.25..........or other.......... You'll be dollars ahead and fewer headaches.

When are you going to develop one for the Renix 2.5?

That's a D35

The price of the factory clutch fan is 7lbs of torque and 14hp. See dyno testing: Motor Trend On-Demand, Engine Masters, this months edition. Before anyone posts that the test was done on a V8 and is not relevant.........parasitic drag is going to be measured the same regardless of the engine or HP rating. 7 and 14, that's the price, for those of us with 2.5s, we cannot afford the cost. I've been through many thermo switches, the one shown below works, cycles flawlessly.

My relays are at the battery. You can choose any hot off the fuse block to illuminate your switch. Upper right of fuse block you will find a philips screw, my ground is mounted there........so........... Hot to illuminate and ground at the fuse block to the switch........then........ The only wire you got to run per relay is one ground per relay from switch to 85 or 86 at the relay..........this........ Eliminates you from running any hot wires through the firewall.

$9200 See how close I am. 2X

Illuminated switch would be the only reason.

Just run the switch to ground, no need for power to the switch at all.

I will, just got my new Ubolts today. But I'l already coming off relatively new springs.

These are special order, made to order, in Nebraska IIRC. One of the few makers that make special springs left in the US.

They will not work for me, conflicts with shock mounts. I'll sell them for cost. Welded, primed, painted. Ad in classified.

Those door panels look sharp, man, very nice.

Here's the skinny.........depends on what bell it comes with. http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/transmissions/manual/nsg370

I pulled a tandem trailer for months, weighs in at 3500 to 4000lbs, the 2.5 will do it but the AX5 will not last. Mountain roads. What you want to do, as you described, a 2.5 will do just fine. 4.10s with 32s, I now have a new modified 2.5 in my MJ with less than 30 miles on it, it will no longer be pulling a trailer regularly. 34s on the horizon, next year I'll likely go with the 305/70/18s. Below is my new Frontier, same displacement as the I6, 4.0. There is no comparison, none, litre for litre, the I6 is a dog, sorry to all the purists, it just is. Yes, the MJ pulled that trailer everywhere I needed it to.

Disconnect the soft line from the caliper, have someone press the brake pedal to the floor. If stream is strong and clear...........that problem lies with the caliper or the bleeder.

I'll suggest it one more time........... Weld in a gusset, if it bent that bad being dropped or caught up in shifting freight........imagine want a side load will do when pulling a trailer. With a gusset in place, that would not have bent, or, at least not as badly, nothing that a little mallet would not have straightened out. It would just get bent where the gusset stops. And a gusset can't be put in there. Pulling a trailer and dropping it are two totally different things. OK

I'll suggest it one more time........... Weld in a gusset, if it bent that bad being dropped or caught up in shifting freight........imagine what a side load will do when pulling a trailer or being jerked out of a ditch (pulled). With a gusset in place, that would not have bent, or, at least not as badly, nothing that a little mallet would not have straightened out.

I spent 6 months as a forklift operator at an OD dist hub, the hardest and $#!&iest job I ever had. Your hitch may see as many as 6 vans before it reaches it's destination, loaded and reloaded, hub to hub. Freight gets damaged all the time, loads shift and operators F-up. Make up a crate/box out of 1x8 and 7/16 OSB if you want to guarantee safe delivery. Will add $30 to cost and take 15 minutes of time......if your buyer wants to pay the freight. Otherwise, strap it to a pallet, it is then 'freight' and freight fees apply. Or, do as you do and do not guarantee safe delivery, disclaimer.

Unscrew and remove the left tail lamp from the fender. The ground connection is a sheet metal screw fastening several wires to ground behind the lamp. This is the third OP recently that has removed the bed and either have no tail lights/running lights working or no fuel pump. When I install the the new tail lights........that G107 ground will be direct to the battery. I already have a new ground post at the rear for trailer brakes and accessories.

Next week I'm ordering 1948 Chevy LED tail lights, and frenching buckets. And and English wheel. :) http://www.speedwaymotors.com/1941-1948-Chevy-LED-Tail-Light-Assembly,7956.html

http://www.ebay.com/itm/161795944527?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Different seller, exact same claims. A lot of genuine NOS is popping up now for some reason.......dealership closings......estate sale collections...........whatever the reason.

That's a good deal. However, he is uncertain as to which bar..........do you know? I know the 2 bar is for forced induction.......do you know if it matters? I looked this up in the past and really got no answer. I replaced mine with a GM MAP, it works, from now on I'll only buy ones that are embossed with GM.

G107 is the ground at the tail lights, make sure it is grounded. There is a link to the electrical diagrams here somewhere, maybe someone can post it, I have it saved as a doc but no link. You'll find it on page 94 once the link is posted.

I just got my Ruffstuff cradles today, they come unwelded and will need to be welded.

Clean plumbing, nice.