87MJTIM

at previous shows, they group classes together. XJs and MJs are one class. (I think MJs are in a class by themselves. But that is just me.)

87s did not come from the factory with a ballast resistor. There was a TSB to address the loud fuel pump with a dealer installed BR. My 87 doesn't have a BR. I have a parts 87 XJ that has the BR installed.

Passenger side bed panel (LB) - no rust around wheel arch or the lower rear panel? (Preferably from a bed that has a trashed driver's side.)

Rockers and/or cab corners?

First, welcome to the obsession and madness. Next, change all fluids, coolant and oil. Get new plugs, wires, and dist. cap. New battery. Since it hasn't run in 20+ yrs, try turning the engine by hand to make sure it hasn't seized up. Spray some WD40 or PB Blaster in each cylinder to lube up the cylinder to ease the cranking. Try starting it. If it runs, then perform Cruiser's Renix tips (www.cruiser54.com). A good engine scanning tool is Nick In Time's Renix Engine Monitor (REM) (www.nickintimedesign.com). This will help you see how the sensors are performing. Once you have the engine running, focus on the brakes and tires. Good luck. Keep asking questions. Everyone is here and willing to help.

A 10 lb slide hammer and a hub puller. Acetylene torch is hotter than propane, but not as hot as Oxy-acetylene.

HEAT is your friend! Can you get a propane torch close to the contact surfaces?

Do you have the heat shield that goes between the manifold and the fuel rail?

I was have issues with my clock fading in and out of brightness. I did the dash grounding upgrade (Cruiser54) and now my clock displays bright. All dash lights are brighter now also. If you haven't done the ground upgrade, try that first.

On the block, one is the coolant temperature sensor, the other is a knock sensor. Check out www.lunged.com for more useful information.

proper water pump? Some pumps have the blades facing opposite direction. The belt spins the pump "backwards." I don't know how to check it when mounted.

Did you replace the hoses, especially the lower one? Those are supposed to have an internal spring to keep the hose from collapsing from the water pump suction. If the spring is gone or the hose is squishy, then the hose may collapse, restricting coolant flow.

Not a “car” movie, but a movie with cars…and very funny. It’s a mad mad mad mad world

It looks similar to a "pocket screw." You know the part. You've taken something apart. When you finish putting it back together you look around and see that one screw still lying there. You don't remember what it went into or where it belongs. So, you put it in your pocket. Problem solved!

I will be there Sat on the field.

I believe the NP231 takes ATF. I don't know what grade, though.

The early AX15s have a 1/2" tip (89.5 to 93(?)). The later AX15s have a 3/4" tip (94+). One part to look for is the front bearing cover/retainer plate. The cover has sleeve the goes over the input shaft. If the sleeve is short, then it takes an internal slave cylinder. If the sleeve is long (3") then it takes an external slave cylinder. From the picture, it looks like a short sleeve on the shaft, but I cannot see very well.

The BA10 BH does not fit the AX15. You need a bell housing, the dust shield, the internal shift fork (if external), the crossmember and the tcase shift linkage.

NP231J: NP - New Process; J - Jeep version. Your tcase is an NP231J. However, it has a 21 spline input shaft. The AX15 has a 23 spline output shaft. You either need a tcase that has the 23 spline input or change your existing input shaft. Rockauto shows 23 spline shafts for $90 to $100. I bet you could find a tcase for that amount or less.

“England and America are two countries separated by the same language.” George B Shaw

Junk yard! The AX15 is not difficult to work on. Having a shop press (or friend with one) is good to have. Otherwise, some basic tools are all you need: socket sets, snap ring plyers, rubber mallet, feeler gauges...

That was part of our rebellion against Britain after the first war. We dropped the "u" from color, flavor, neighbor, etc. We also stopped drinking tea. We pronounce "Z" as zee, not zed. (That one took me a while to understand just what the heck you guys were saying.) Happy Canada Day, btw.

The tcase may hang too low or strike the bottom of the floor. I cannot remember which way it clocks to the trans. Either way, a YJ tcase clocks differently than an XJ tcase. The difference is from the bolt holes at the rear of the transmission, not the bolt holes on the tcase. Also, looking at the pictures of your MJ, the grill is upside down. Complete your signature: MJ yr., engine, trans, any modification done by you or a PO. Include your location: state (US) or province (CA).

As mentioned in your "Help!" thread - AX15 crossmember!

You can keep your driveshafts. The XJ rear DS will be too short. The front is the same for both MJ and XJ. The picture shows the bell housing has the external slave cylinder . The tcase shifter in the picture looks like a YJ not an XJ. If the set up came off a YJ, the tcase is clocked differently to the trans. If so, when you install the tcase it may strike the bottom of the floor.