87MJTIM

I am not sure what to say about the pink one. “MakenBacon” comes to mind.

As long as there are no turns on the way home

Junk yard 97+ 👍

Transmission mount for an AX15. For the flywheel, it must match the ECU with the engine: Renix vs HO

I've used 10/30 since new. Mostly Penzoil, but have used other brands occasionally, but always 10/30. I used to use Fram or other brands, but have not used those in many years. I purchase NAPA filters now. Oil changes were done from 3000 to 5000 miles. In 33 years, I have done all the changes. I followed the directions on the SF label - 6 oz. in the oil BEFORE changing. Run it for approx. 1000 mile, then change. It seams odd to put the SF/MMO in with dirty oil. Would it be better to put it in a fresh change. Run it for a 1000 miles then change again?

From reading this, it sounds like a lifter tick is fairly common with these engines. Mine gets a ticking/chattering sound when the engine is warm. I have 312k on it. It was refreshed at 267k. I tried Sea Foam in the oil last year without a noticeable change in the noise. I got some MMO to try next. I am not sure if I can expect different results. (See the definition for insanity.) Is the voodoo and snake oil just a band aid to a bigger problem? Is the ultimate fix to problem to replace the lifters/push rods/rocker arms?

Judging from the tachometer, it’s rev’ing pretty high. Almost red lining

I have the General Springs, also. I have not tested them like that - yet. I have the opportunity to get some firewood. I figured I would test the springs then.

WOW! 😯

Westin Fey - if you are looking for as close to stock.

ballast resistor

87s did come with ballast resistors, originally. They may have been added by the dealer after a factory TSB about the noise of the fuel pump. Mine does not have one. I got a parts 87 XJ that had a dealer installed BR.

Try flipping the crossmember 180*. The drop is not centered in the crossmember.

On the Renix, ANY ground is a critical ground.

I did the swap a couple years ago to an AX15 with an external slave cylinder. I left the PP from the BA10 in place. It just didn't feel right when shifting. I researched part number change for manual trans Jeeps on RockAuto. The LUK clutch kits changed when the Jeeps switched from internal to external slaves, not just the change from the BA10 to an internal slave AX15. Searching the individual components, besides the slave cyl/throughout bearing changing to a separate throughout bearing, the clutch disk remained the same for all years MJ/XJs through 2001. The pressure plate changed when the slave cyl switched from internal to external. This why I recommend changing the PP when you switch trans with an external slave. That background given, I don't think the PP is your problem. I think the problem is electrical. You state it only happens when you release the clutch. That suggests that the clutch pedal is contacting an open wire under the dash. Get under the dash with a light and depress the clutch. See if it contacts or moves some wires.

Try squeezing the lower hose (when it's cool). If it is mushy, you should replace it. While it's running, open the throttle and see what the hose does at higher RPMs.

My first thoughts. The water pump may be pulling enough to collapse the lower hose. How old are the hoses?

I was asked more than once "when will you/why didn't you turn it in for 'cash-for-clunkers'."

I can one-up that. While in an auto parts store, a guy ask me about my truck. He finished the conversation with "my grandfather had one."

I used EvapoRust in a rusty 4.0. The PO parked it with water in the block. I let sit a day or two, then drained, and rinsed it. It cleaned up the internals nicely. I then ran distilled water and vinegar for a few days while letting the engine idle. I didn't drive it with that in it, just idled.

I have a few full cluster from XJs. I am just up the road in New Market!

Could it be a T4 from a CJ? It would bolt up to a 4.0.

Was that a factory option or dealer installed?

An example of government in action or government inaction