DirtyComanche

I'm not sure with the later intake as the throttle body might be different than the earlier HO one? I have pictures of how I put the Renix stuff on my earlier HO intake, I'd just have to dig them up. It's fairly simple, most of the sensors just swap over to their news holes, the throttle cable has to be changed out to a HO one, if you have an automagic transmission you need to modify things to allow the TV cable to actually work, or actually pull the transmission apart to install the HO TV cable, the TPS requires some spacers/screws and a little filing of parts to work (there is a writeup in the DIY section). You have to delete your EGR, so either use the HO header, plug the Renix one, or just crimp the pipe on the Renix one, then toss the EGR solenoid and junk. The P/S pump and bracket setup is different too, IIRC. I had lots of stuff on hand when I did it so it wasn't a big deal, of course I wound up milling my bracket so I could use a WJ pump too, but that's another story.

I don't have a picture, but there's not much to tell you. The wires for the CPS connector come out of the main loom that runs by the injectors/past the throttle body near the back of the head. It's a 3 pin GM weatherpack connector, you can buy one from Pico with the pins/seals (so no splices) for $5~. There is supposed to be a clip on the bellhousing and on the back of the head for the CPS wires, and without them there is potential for the wires to become pinched/torn. If there is splices in the wire anywhere then it is suspect and I would pull the loom off and check things. I think Cruiser has a picture out of the manual showing how the wire is routed and where the clips are supposed to be. They're often gone as people replace the CPS and just throw the wire in there.

^^^ Epic picture.

X2 on looking at the oil. Assuming the oil is okay, I'd fill the cooling system back up and monitor things. Unless there's something else obviously wrong with the engine. Any ideas why it is not running?

And maybe those screws that are mounting it are actually 5" long and screw right into the fender...

Umm, no, not likely. It looks like a fairly standard self resetting thermal style circuit breaker. The feet are to mount it, there's a slightly cheaper version without the feet that typically winds up just being left dangling, or at best zip tied to something, since they're not exactly easy to mount. There's styles with pin or blade contacts to plug into a circuit board or fuse box, again, they are not grounded. It's probably dedicated power for a stereo. Or something else broke and nobody wanted to figure out how to fix it correctly.

I moved mine. I went with XJ style stud mounts because I had a set. I do not believe in hanging anything below the axle tube. I am using stock length shocks and get acceptable travel out of it, I didn't adjust the bumpstops as they played nicely with the length of the shocks and fender clearance. I would suggest getting the axle in place and measuring before committing to what shocks you buy or mounting locations. You can see them in this shot... Sorta Or here

You can carefully unclip the brake and gas lines and move them over a bit. Also, buy a fireproof welding blanket (or a couple) and stuff one between the lines and where you're working. They're also good for covering other things you don't want damaged. Change out that leaking master cylinder ASAP. You don't want to damage the fuse block any more than it already is. Good luck on the rust repairs. It will be a big job. You might be better off just riveting some pieces in for now and seam sealing it, until you have time to take things completely apart. You're going to need a whole new floor pan on the driver's side to fix that correctly...

I said one time only, because 99% of the time they're screwed up badly. I guess if you had purchased new leaf packs recently? I've never seen an OEM pin come out in any sort of condition that I wound consider reusing it, normally it's cut them off and in the trash, no wasting time over $3 in pins.

Gotta agree with Hornbrod. Throw a nice light flake paint on it, or just a colour with some vibrancy and depth. That's a colour you paint something if the body work is less than perfect... (Been there!) People might hate me, but for the money I really think using an AMC360/3 speed slush box is a pretty boring/lackluster driveline for that thing.

Stock XJs/MJs can go a lot of places. It just gets rough... And eventually stuff breaks.

The SMP one is probably okay. SMP151 I think is the P/N, but that might be for the HO one... Just make sure there isn't a T on the end of the P/N. I've honestly never bought a new one. Normally the junkyard is full of new ones from people trying to fix idle issues that weren't the IAC. Are you sure the o-ring on it is good? And the plunger is clean along with the little passage for it?

They're one time use. Cut it off and get a new one. Any decent parts store has them. Leaf spring center pin is the correct term. Normally the head has a slot in it though... It's just to hold it to tighten it though. Edit - Often you don't have to put a new center pin in when doing a SOA, as the diameter of the nut is normally the same as the pin head. But it would be more correct to change it out. I honestly couldn't tell you if I did or not when I did the SOA on my current MJ though.

Doesn't to me.

Hope it works out better than the last one I recall being stolen off here, which was torched.

Happens a lot actually. The windshield will take a chip or have small crack near the edge during the summer and it will go unnoticed until the first cold morning when you turn the defroster on. You can actually catch it as it spreads and "push" the crack to change the direction and force it back to the edge, otherwise often it will crack from one end of the windshield to the other. The joys of winter.

I've had decent luck with aftermarket senders. They're a pretty simple part to build... Just don't buy the lowest end garbage (SMP T-series, Rugged Ridge/Omix-ADA, BWD... Oh wait, I actually have a BWD one in my MJ right now, but still, don't buy that crap). I'd hit it with an IR gun first to see if the thermostat is the wrong one or sticking, or just pull the housing and look. Lots of guys throw the wrong (160, 180, not a 195) tstat in these things. And yeah, the cheapest of the cheapest tstats will give you nothing but trouble too. There's a good chance the temperature switch for your electric fan is dead too. At least, most of the ones I encounter are. Or it is just not warm enough for it to come on. Did you get the clutch bled better? They're a pain.

A 2wd OBS XJ... The best you can hope is it's parked in the 'back forty' somewhere. That's not exactly a desirable vehicle for 99% of people. I do wonder whatever happened to the 89? 4dr XJ I had. Last seen on the side of the road with a massive puddle of ATF under it...

There's also options for bucket seats, which is my preference.

Yup, they're Barbie Jeep accessories, IMHO. Use a normal cheap plastic can that you can buy at Walmart for $10 so it can be easily replaced when the tweakers steal it. Not that this reply helps at all.

Ouch, but yeah, looks fixable. That's shame it was so minty. Is calling the cops on your own single vehicle accident a good idea there? Here they would just write you a nice fat ticket for your efforts, then call flaggers and tow truck so you get to eat that bill too... When I rolled my Dodge I was adamant that they would not be calling a tow truck for me as the vehicle was not on the road, which saved me $1000 or so as I used my BCAA (AAA).

I don't understand how it could vibe that bad. My XJ has Energy Suspension poly motor mounts (don't buy them, they're a nightmare to install) and they do not transmit vibrations that are really worth noting. It's not like an OEM mount, but not much worse. And chance you bumped a plug wire or something when installing them, and the engine is actually running really rough?

Should work. Interchangeable P/N on Summit, which has a lot of positive reviews: https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/pwm-7294/overview/ Or more amps or more money: https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/pwm-57295/overview/ There's other options in there if you look for a 12si alternator.

Is that a v belt accessory drive? There's a good chance it's only a 60~amp alternator then, but again it's basically a GM alternator so you can get a larger one from another application. And there's aftermarket setups available. I'm not very familiar with the 2.5L, or the pre-87 XJ/MJs, but I know there was multiple accessory styles and alternators used. Optima's build quality and QC went to crap some years back and I don't trust that they have rectified the issues, and they were denying warranty claims all over. IMHO they command a very premium price for a product that is not superior. Odyssey/Sears Platinum AGMs are a superior product for a lower price, and there is certainly many other AGMs on the market. Optimas are actually a gel cell/spiral wound setup, which IMHO makes no damn sense anyways. That said, there is absolutely no need for 95%+ of people to spend the money on an AGM battery, personally I like them a lot as they perform better, do not cause corrosion, and won't leak if you're way off camber, but high quality flooded lead acid batteries certainly work and they do cost less money. I think most OEMs (save hybrids and electric vehicles) still use flooded lead acid batteries, so they can't be that bad. I only have one battery on that vehicle (it's actually an XJ). The inner fenders are stretched and a battery would not fit in the stock location or the other side. I do not believe in mounting batteries in the passenger area of a vehicle, so I had to find somewhere it would fit. Much trial and error lead to that location. Of the dual battery vehicles I have owned I have never run an isolator. An isolator is for if you want to have a starting battery, and a 'house' battery to run accessories while the engine is off, as this will mean you will not inadvertently kill your starting battery. There is no advantage, in fact there is only disadvantage, to having an isolator in a situation where the second battery is not being used as a house battery; being that you've complicated the system, increased costs, added a failure point, and decreased the ampacity of the wiring install as a whole. If the second battery is being used as a house battery it is also typically/recommended to use a deep cycle battery, which may or may not be suitable for all usage. Unless you're planning to do a lot of long pulls while winching, a second battery is rarely needed. It may be an unneeded expense and complication for you. Also, as Jtrux is implying, the output of an alternator at idle is much less than maximum (a 60 amp alternator may put out a measly 15 amps at idle), and a high idle/throttle lock/hand throttle will go a long ways to allowing the alternator to perform better. That said, if you've got a wimpy alternator, a second battery will certainly bandaid the situation decently. What winch are you buying? And an ammeter is IMHO a silly do-dad at best. I'm assuming you actually have a working voltage gauge or charge indicating light.

What year and engine? I'm going to answer assuming it's a Renix 4L since that's most common. 1) All factory ones are small, 105A I think? Works fine. Some aftermarket rewinds are more or less. It's actually a slightly modded GM alternator, so you can use a GM one to get more jam... 2) Group 34 is about what you can do 3) Something AGM, not Optima. 4) Mean Green probably still sells a kit, I think it's rubbish, it mounts the second battery sideways (like, on it's side) or some garbage. If you remove the airbox you can build (or buy a euro diesel XJ tray) and fit another one on that side. I relocated mine to against the firewall, so it could be used as a second battery location, but you can't run A/C if you do that, and it required a lot of fab work. 5) Back to the battery with the negative. I recommend having a disconnect in the works with winch wiring. AMP makes some nice ones, I could dig up some P/Ns and pics of how I did it on my JK probably. Relocated battery at firewall: