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DirtyComanche

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Everything posted by DirtyComanche

  1. I only drill them a size over because normally the holes are oblonged. It's a case by case thing. I also tried using metric bolts that were just a hair bigger, along with high tolerance bolts (also a hair oversize).
  2. They're just a 1/4" roll pin, IIRC. Maybe they're 3/16"? Sorry, I don't remember. I drill the hinge the next size over and put a bolt in when I make the doors quick removable, and I would probably do that even if I wasn't making them removable.
  3. If there was one thing that was consistent about AMC, it was that they were inconsistent with everything they built.
  4. Correct. There's dynamic seals on both ends. The adapter space is not meant to be sealed and has a drain on the bottom of it. There's some exceptions to this out there in other applications, but every factory trans/tcase combo in a MJ will be like this.
  5. The ATP Y803 or Pioneer CA3004 are likely the best bet. The first one is for cruise control applications, so it's out. And the last one is 100" long, which is insanely long... An 83" cable with screw on ends should be fine.
  6. The Fairchild stuff on Rockauto is listed as being 152"x1.03"x.85". https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1777322&cc=1179996&jsn=1822 I haven't bought it but I don't see why it wouldn't be correct. They also have a kit (2 pieces) that saves a little money. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3385443&cc=1179996&jsn=1825
  7. Sep 8, 8lbs, 22". (Hell if I know )
  8. I think it would look even better with a set of Napiers on it. But that's me.
  9. WayneHartwig/Diffsonly sells new stripper LS harnesses and will redo them too I think, plus programs ECMs. I'd probably use him if he would deal with me on it (won't program out of country stuff), since I buy almost all of my gear/axle stuff from him.
  10. He's talking about the seats that have curved sliders. They sit different than the straight slider version.
  11. Some blunt sucker will pay it.
  12. It's a truck, there's supposed to be some rake to it. Otherwise when you put something in the box you'll be looking up at the stars and blinding the world with your headlights.
  13. The supplied lubricant in them isn't very good. I lubed mine with dry graphite before installing it, but I think there's probably better products.
  14. Do you have the trim "seal" installed around it? It's basically there to hide any gaps.
  15. While I'm sure it wouldn't matter that much, the factory glass is curved.
  16. Is WIPP the whole Yucca Mountain thing (as National Geographic put it "Yuck, a mountain, full of radioactive waste" or something to that effect)? Gotta bury that stuff somewhere. And I agree, you won't see salt use decrease in any of those areas because it's such a big industry. I wish they wouldn't salt anything here, it doesn't actually help. If it just stays cold and you put some sand down it works much better, as the sand embeds in the ice and it acts like sandpaper. Even on clear ice in the cold you have great traction. It's the freeze/thaw cycles that salt (and warm weather) introduces that actually make a slick surface (it's cold enough the whole winter that you only get significant freeze/thaw in the spring really, and even that can be combated with just sand).
  17. You missed the point. Did Toyota make a ton of money by having to replace 225,000 truck frames? Absolutely not, it's assumed it has cost them billions of dollars just to replace the frames, plus potentially a ton more in lost sales due to damage to their reputation. As the manufacturer seems to be held responsible for the safety of their product for longer and longer, it is in their own interest to demand that the vehicles are not subjected to such horrific conditions. On the flip side the NHTSA will likely wind up pushing for better corrosion control requirements on the basis of safety, which will also cost the auto manufacturer money (like you were saying, you just missed why they were going to have to do it, I can assure you they don't want to spend the money), hence again they would be better off to go after the excessive salt usage instead.
  18. It's surprising that either the auto manufacturers haven't demanded that some limit be placed on the amount of salt that is put on the road, or that they haven't been required to build vehicles with even better anti-corrosion technology, since the salt usage in those areas can render a vehicle structurally deficient within 5 years.
  19. This was what I was trying to get at. No point doing any other troubleshooting until the cables are installed correctly.
  20. With the lights on? I did it more because I didn't feel like trying to get a burning headlight switch out of my dash on the side of the road in the middle of the night, again. The lights are noticeably brighter now though. Not saying they're amazing, but it made a difference.
  21. It's definitely a high pinion? 2000 is the transition year I believe. Be sure before you commit to using it. But yes, I'd use it over an early axle. The brake and hub parts are more plentiful (cheaper) and the knuckles are stronger.
  22. Out of those, I assume only the TruckLites have a DOT approval stamped on them? I just sold off a set of cheap LED headlights I bought because of that. It's not worth the headache to me, since you're either getting an inspection order (which will cost about $150 even if nothing it wrong) or a ticket for running unapproved headlights.
  23. Even if you're intending to travel to a new location every day, the sheer amount of 'stuff' that they packed into the Earthroamer XV-JP was just insane. Curb weight was 6700lbs. There's a super long thread on that one as they wound up changing it significantly from how Earthroamer built it. https://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/earthroamer-xv-jp-northwest-edition.51254/ I guess there's certain places where you would actually need the level of features they designed them with, but it just seemed to me like they compromised mobility too much to justify it. I'd think if you needed that much stuff you'd be better off going to a full size truck with a compact/pop-up camper, loaded weight would likely be similar, along with overall dimensions, and the price would be a lot lower. Or just take a small trailer.
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