DirtyComanche

That's the 2.5L bottle?

Yeah, that needs to go to an overflow bottle so the coolant in captured and returned to the system when it cools down. If I'm understanding you right, that is.

This is a Renix or a HO? The Renix and HO use a different downpipe, different collector flange and gasket, and it should be a different flange at the tranny crossmember, so it is not interchangeable.

Alright, it's not your fitting, that's good. Hopefully the relief valve piston behind it is moving smoothly and not stuck, as that can happen as a result of taking the fitting out (shoddy remans may come with it stuck!), but it's probably not the case. I don't know how the line between the reservoir and pump is run, or if it's a factory molded line or just bulk hose, but with something like that you want to make sure it has a nice even slope and minimum turns. Basically, you don't want it to look like a roller coaster, because that will trap air in it. If it's like that it's only a problem for bleeding, as once bled it will always be full of oil so it won't matter. Hence the comments on shaking/wiggling it and tapping the fittings with something that won't damage them, you just want to make sure any air bubbles in there are freed up and work their way back up into the reservoir and out of the system. I wouldn't apply vacuum to it, it's probably counterproductive actually. What would be better is if you can take the cap off and stick a piece of (clean) radiator hose over the neck for the cap, and tighten a clamp around it (and a rag to get some of the weep, it's not like it's going to seal properly), then fill it right up with oil. That will put a little more head pressure on it for the process of bleeding it with the engine off. It's probably not necessary though, but it can be a handy trick for trying to fill/bleed other unruly fluid systems.

And you did say you changed the reservoir, correct? Sorry, I'm a little scattered with my reply here. The fitting I am referring to is the high pressure outlet fitting in the pump. Behind it is the relief valve assembly. Pull the hose off and look in it with a flashlight, there should be a fairly small hole in the center of it. I have some pictures, give me a few. If bleeding it extensively does not produce good results, I would recommend taking that fitting out and seeing what is going on with the relief valve, if it is not behaving correctly it will force a massive amount of fluid through the steering box, which does not help anything.

I didn't realize they used that remote reservoir setup on the 2.5L in a MJ. I've seen it on TJs, but I swear all the older 2.5L stuff I've looked at uses a P pump with the pear shaped reservoir around the pump. Anyways, it's a T/C pump then, not that it really helps you at this point. I'm still banking on you have an issue with how it is bled and will need to deal with it first. That style of reservoir can make bleeding MUCH harder. I would recommend shaking the lines after you fill the system, and tapping the pump and hard fittings with a screwdriver handle, and absolutely make sure that line is routed correctly and is free of low/high spots that can trap air. Basically, try to get the air pockets free and flowing back up to the reservoir on the inlet side of the pump. The issue is that ANY air that is pushed through the pump will expand massively when it makes it way to the return side of the system. Your initial problem easily could have come from low fluid level causing one gulp of air getting sucked in when cornering/braking/hitting a bump, and from there the problem compounds itself as the air is forced through the system and causes the oil to become emulsified with air. Edit, also, I would go back on my previous advice with this system and avoid running it during the bleed process for a lot longer. Only try running it after you've done a pile of lock to lock turns. Maybe 100! Also, make sure the correct outlet fitting is in that pump. People (like me) play with the orifice sizes in them for various reasons, and there is more than one size/style offered from the factory. It should be about 1/8" max if it's factory correct. Also, people play with the relief valve in the pump, might be worth pulling it out, BUT if this was a known good pump (not an 'new' reman unit, at least half the shops that reman them have no idea what they're doing and will put the wrong/modified parts back in them!) and you did not change the outlet fitting, I would not worry about this.

Does the 2.5L use a T/C pump like the 4L, or does it use a P pump like an older Chevy? Is the correct fitting being used on the outlet? Honestly, I think you just have trapped air from poor bleeding, and need to bleed it more. Yeah, not the answer you want to hear, but you've replaced everything so short of having the lines hooked up backwards (which really doesn't work out, and is extremely difficult to do), there just isn't a lot of options. The way the internal passages are drilled in the steering box can cause difficulty with bleeding if the box has been run really low on oil. I would recommend filling the system up, doing the lock to lock with the tires off the ground/not running thing about 30 times while checking the fluid level, then fire it up with the tires still off the ground and go lock to lock again a couple times, shut it off, keep doing it with them in the air and not running, run it again, and repeat for a while. It's almost impossible to have a return side leak that will admit air rather than leaking fluid. Would you take a picture so there is no 'smoking gun' that we don't know about?

You can tell that the wheelwell on the bed doesn't line up right or anything, so yeah, it's probably a real ugly hackjob so they can just test that the concept works or whatever... If they don't offer a 2dr version, it would be really stupid. Hence I bet they won't offer a 2dr version. :rotf:

This seems odd. Really. You don't have different components from anyone else. Lube everything that moves with silicone grease? Failing that, I would either take Hornbrod up on the return spring, or just install something generic.

Looked it up, apparently they called it the Vari-lok diff. It's with the Quadra-drive system, not Quadra-trac I or II, not Selec-trac, only the Quadra-drive. Worth pulling one from the junkyard? Meh.

He is remembering incorrectly. Jeep never offered a limited slip in the front Dana 30. Not in the XJ, not in the MJ, not in the ZJ. Maybe his dealership was installing them as a dealer option, but it was not a factory option. I think a front limited slip would create some real handling problems in snow or ice. grand cherokee WJs with quadratrac came with front and rear limited slip Really?

It's like Plastidip. I could get into it... But you put that $#!& on your truck, don't you dare come back to whine about it. You're better off going to Homodepot and buying a gallon of Behr Ultra and a smooth roller.

Gas tank skid is actually kinda useful.

Didn't bother to read the rest of the thread so somebody else might have said it, but there is in other vehicles. Volvo cars are a good one, they often came factory with a Trac-loc clutch pack limited slip. You can stick it in a front D30. Edit, woah, Necro thread. I should have read it before replying.

Take the dimple out, above idea using a C-clamp is probably a good way, or a hammer and dolly if you're the type, or get a tailpipe expander and open up the other side so it can go in more. 1" ain't enough unless you're welding it.

Just don't smash the crush sleeve any tighter when you torque the pinion nut and it will be fine. Normally the crush sleeve needs a fairly ridiculous amount of torque to crush, so you can put locktite on the threads and torque the nut to a 'safe' number, stake it, and it won't change a thing. You can also put a witness mark between the nut and pinion before you take it apart, thus you can see if you're going to tighten it too much. I think you mark the nut and flange. Count the rotations to take the nut off. Then assemble the nut with the counted rotations (turns). Then about a 1/16 turn more. The correct way is you need an inch-lb torque meter. If assembled, then rotate the nut with the torque meter (dial type). Get that reading. Need to torque the nut when reassembled to that torque value. Can use a new nut and sleeve. At least that is what I am told. Counting turns sounds good and everything, but I take that sort of stuff apart with the impact and it's extremely hard to tell. The nut will torque up nearly where it was before, and as long as you do not exceed the torque needed to crush the sleeve (probably about 200ft-lbs) you will not affect the bearing preload. But yes, if you're using hand tools and want to count turns, go right ahead, it will work fine. Be careful going past the marked line, as if it was torqued quite tight prior that 1/16 turn may be enough to crush the sleeve a bit, although it is not likely. Also you can't/shouldn't mark the nut against the flange/yoke, as the flange/yoke is not master splined and can be put on the pinion in many different orientations. Standard practice when pulling a flange/yoke is to mark it against the pinion (or whatever splined shaft it is on) so it can be reassembled the same way, so really one should just draw a nice line with the paint pen across the pinion, nut and yoke, or center punch each of them in line. Otherwise, yes, pull the carrier, measure drag torque (preload) with a dial torquewrench/torquemeter, take the nut/yoke off, install new crush sleeve, install seal, reassemble, torque until the prior measured drag torque is achieved. Waste of time.

If you're worried about the inside of your rockers, you could drill an access hole at the front of them (inside the wheel well where it won't be seen, put a plug in it later) and I believe there is already a couple plugged holes from inside the cab, or you could add some from below, and then use this product: http://www.eastwood.com/internal-frame-coating-w-spray-nozzle.html There may be BETTER versions of that product out there, but that was the one that came to mind.

Looks like a good excuse to put rectangular tube rockers in.

Herculiner or just in general? Mind if I ask why if its just in general? In general. I did my own MJ, but I've done a couple vehicles since then for people using different products. The last one was a 91 Toyota pickup. If you're going to do heinous body work and want it covered, sure, it's the way to go, and with that truck it certainly was the case. It's just always going to look dirty, unless you pressure wash it all the time, and I just can't stand it. And if it does rust under it, you won't get any symptoms until it's quite terrible, and then it's really terrible to get it off to do anything about it. I'd go with a cheap Macco paint job, you do the prep. At least I'm assuming you can still get a Macco paint job in the US for very little money. Or I'd just buy a cheap gun and go at it with implement paint (rent a compressor if you need to). Or find somebody other than Macco that will spray it if you do the prep. Or even, gasp, Valspar with a roller and add the hardener. If your paint is intact you could try cutting it and polishing it too. It would blow you away what some of the products out there can do.

Looks like your gantry crane could use a new crossbar!

I did it once and would never do it again.

Just don't smash the crush sleeve any tighter when you torque the pinion nut and it will be fine. Normally the crush sleeve needs a fairly ridiculous amount of torque to crush, so you can put locktite on the threads and torque the nut to a 'safe' number, stake it, and it won't change a thing. You can also put a witness mark between the nut and pinion before you take it apart, thus you can see if you're going to tighten it too much.

A plugged cat can also make it run hot, if you have one and it's been in there a long time. One of those things that people don't think about because it is not at all related to the cooling system. Normally you get low power associated with that though. Is it an oiled air filter? I would not recommend running one if it is, but that's not related to your cooling problem.

Right on, I hope it works out for you. :cheers:

You took out the thermostat? Because otherwise it sounds 'normal.' Your gauge probably reads wrong. Unless sitting still and idling it just gets hotter and hotter. But I would have done the water pump, or at least pulled it off and looked at it, before adding a pusher fan. Try revving it up while you're stopped (in park/out of gear) and see if the temperature comes down at higher RPM, if so that's a classic sign that the water pump is on its way out or potentially obstructed.