skidoo_j

How would it be any different then bleeding a stock setup?

I was thinking of doing this too, but keeping the emergency line and tee after manual valve.

Just so he doesnt have to search:

if you moved the axle that far back wouldn't you have issues with your bed? Just looking at my truck if i moved my rear axle back 2" I would be so far off the wheel well that if it compressed I'd be tearing the truck bed up. So you may not be docking the bed shorter to improve angles, but you might have to move/ cut your fender well 5" back.

I would say it's not worth it. The one you have should be high pinion. IIRC the one out of a jk is low pinion. You can use randy's ring and pinion's website to compare the spline but the high pinion revers cut is stronger and provides better angles then the lower. the main thing you'd gain pending what year the current axle came from is if you had the axle disconnect.

according to the JKS install the pins are only to be used if you have the factory skid pan.

Stabilizer bar to link bolt 45ftlbs stb ar frame bracket 30 ftlbs stablizer bar link to suspension bracket 45 ftlbs pages 907-909 in the 90fsm.pdf

Going SOA is definitely a cheaper route to lift the rear, however I personally wish i never had. I got 7" long spring plates attached to my axle to help prevent axle wrap, still have issues. I tried to keep the lift around 4", but you'll end up about 5.5-6" pending your springs. Hind sight i would have purchased hell creek 4" rear springs and stayed SOA.

There are how-to's on here where you can take the cad shift fork off, turn it around and re-install. And bam no cost 4x4 with out worry of vacuum cad not working. it will then be just like 92+ maybe a little weaker because of the collar, but no monies, just a little time. Then you can see how it handles before and after and decide if you do want to eliminate it completely with the full conversion (requires new seals so the carrier has to be pulled, new single piece axle, new u joint). the passenger axle can be a junk yard pull so you could save some monies there, but you do have to pull the carrier and replace the seal.

Originally When i got the posi-loc i didn't have a locker up front, so i retained the cad it so i could have 2-low. I now run the Posi-Loc and a Powertrax no Slip up front. I got the longer cable and ran it with best forethought to prevent damage (ran a lot of it through radiator hose for added protection. I enjoy having the Posiloc as I can put in 3 wheel drive low range when launching the boat, it makes it easier to turn once i hit the concrete at the boat ramps. Hind sight I would have removed the cad with an axle from a 92+? and purchased a terra 2-low kit. I would have then felt i needed a select locker up front, however people will say they have no adverse steering issues with an auto locker and having both axles engaged. All manufactures strongly advise against an auto locker up front w/o a disengagement though.

We did a hub conversion on my dads 2001 Dodge 3500. It made a world of difference steering. It made the truck track better and definitely improved response time. He only saw 1.5 mpg difference. And my dad is a very very easy driver. he logs his mpg ritually and notes any changes he made. For the dodge it was a no-brainer as it was only 200 more than replacing the uni-hubs, also replaced the axle disconnect that they put on them too. Who would have thought that 10 years after they removed it from the d30 they'd but a CAD on a dodge 3500. I'd jump on doing this conversion if you net 4mpg better ;) still 1300 is pretty spendy, that's both elockers. What size does the center hole on the wheels need to be? I currently have canyons so they'd have to be replaced as i doubt they could be drilled large enough to hold the hub. . It appears the alloy kit retains 5x4.5?

Bled the Clutch, replaced front turn/marker socket. Topped off fluids. received my 8" slip yoke to trim down. scrubbed a spare valve cover to prep for paint and install. @ cruiser I did find that the aluminum valve covers from the 90 i pulled had holes drilled in the vent towers, whereas the one from 88 does not. Also the metal baffles were different, the 90 had a center support and the 88 was just floating. I've yet to pull mine from the 89 to see how it differs, but do plan to cut down a set of towers 1". I barely have any blow by, but figure it maybe stop it completely.

correct it is the clutch bleeder. On mine it's 1/4" for the bleeder and 9/16" for the connector.

I really hope it wasn't just for the "gas savings" 1k for the hub conversion is kinda steep. I look at is as gaining 2-low w/ out opening the transfer case. Decreasing potential wear on the transfer for long distance driving. Should make steering feel more free. allows 3x4 with the locker. I really debated doing this when i replaced my hubs, but arguing another $850 over new hubs was a very uphill battle with the wife. I'd rather get a select-able locker in the rear.

Is there away to change the search results to be more similar to the old forums? It's difficult to find results in the new format. When you click on the preview it shows the first post and only part of the post that may contain the search que (out of three searches my search terms were not even in the previews). It seems the preview is the first sentence of the post and often that's not where the answer is, secondly Its a PITA to have to click on each search result to view a preview. Showing just the title is pretty much worthless as alot of times peoples titles are so ambiguous that what's discussed in the forum maybe very relevant to what I'm searching for, but I'm gong to skip over it because the title is blah, whereas before it would list the results in the forum with about a sentence before and after my found words. This allowed me to read a sentence and know the context of the forum and also better decide if my answer would be in there. Found my own answer. If you click the settings for search (gear next to search) you can select display results as posts. I'd like to be able to get results by post as the default, but atleast I can search the forums like before.

Harbor freight has a 4x4 kit that has the press and like 6 cups rather then the generic 3 if you wanted the benefit of the more exact cups and press. I'd take a new ball joint into where ever you're buying the tool an make sure it has a cup that will catch the lip of the new joint. The cup kit i mentioned had a cup that fit well when i shimmed it with an aluminum can, so it stayed centered and kept it from slipping to one side etc. It was a royal pain in the @$$ when I installed them on my brothers jeep prior to purchase of the cup kit. The generic three sucked. I ended up having to press them in from the top instead of the lip and it tweaked the walls some, how it effects the longevity of the new joint is yet to be determined.

Were the push rods close in length? Were you able to retain the washer fluid res in it's original place? If need move what is the minimal it needs to move? Did it change the height position of the brake pedal?

I found the cup kit from harbor freight very useful. The generic cups didn't fit aswell and found it difficult to keep them square. With the harborfreight ones they fit snug and seemed to make a huge improvement. http://www.harborfreight.com/14-piece-master-ball-joint-adapter-set-66958.html I use that set with the press from autozone.

Seems to run well on Google chrome. It will take a bit to get used to new locations of things, but seems to flow and operate well. Good job guys edit: really like how the edit screen functions. I love how this one re-sizes photos to the screen. IMO that was one of the biggest PIA to have to scroll the screen right and left to read text because an oversized photo was posted.

If you're going to convert your transfer to a SYE you want the driveline to pinion to be as close to 0 as possible. If you're leaving the factory slip yoke you want your pinion to be parallel to your transfer case output. http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks ... -101.shtml http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/driveline/ You should be able to delete the second post when on a computer.

wow, I can't believe how clean it looks. I'd love it if were closer to me, I'd have pulled the tail gate and tail lights, the bump stops the rear portion vlv looks good. the electrical plug that is at the back that controls the tail lights.

Oh believe me I know it comes out of no where. I'm just chasing down any possible issues in the front before I increase the caster. Tires are balanced perfect, little to no tread wear. Very even wear. Toe is good, all ball joints are tight, same with all rod ends. the track bar is tight. as is the bracket. The bearings were tight too, but had not been replaced. I had a squeal in the driver side everynow and then i just figured it was the brakes because if i tapped them it would go away. I decided to replace them and the squeal has not been heard since, If i can get it to experience DW again then i'll be bring the caster off 5.5* maybe to 6. then reset toe. changed the pinion yoke because i actually had slop as one of the tabs must have gotten damaged. Now it's tight tight. Seems everytime I do a shake down i find something else that's loose and needs replaced. I also took the rear drive shaft in to have it balanced, it was well within spec and cost me 30 to find out.

:dunce: :dunce: Managed to get it stuck in my friggin driveway. I forgot I still had the front drive shaft out, put it in 4x4 and tried to go up the bank on my drive way. I managed to get the hitch slammed into the asphalt high centering the rear wheels, a locker does no good when both tires are in the air. While on the bank I'm looking at the front tires thinking oh gawd I broke something then I realized oh crap. I had to walk up the to garage and install the front drive shaft while it was stuck on the bank. It wasn't alot of fun as I kept sliding down the bank. The pictures don't really show how steep it is, my driveway is a 30% grade and the bank is the cut out, I get airborne on the 100cc dirtbike with only the run of the width of the driveway. It was kinda un-nerving being under the truck, knowing it's steep enough the brakes woulnt hold it, and having to take it out of gear so i could spin the yokes to align the shaft. It kept popping and creaking down as the hitch dug further into the asphalt and tore it up. Wife is not happy with me at all. :dunce: :dunce:

Well my driverside hub was toast. And the passenger side U-joint practically blew up when i was pressing it out. I ended up picking it out piece by piece. The pinion u-bolt yoke I installed has a slinger on it, I wish it didnt because I didnt change the seal, and now i think it maybe leaking, but i can't see it. Made some removal videos of the hub. and all the shake downs, but decided they don't really show anything that hasn't been posted before.

When I installed amps I ran the power down the side of the vehicle the battery was on to keep the wire shorter. Then following that same "keep wires short" I would pull carpet and run my RCA's down the tunnel and get them as short as possible, but not tight. Pretty much you can half @$$ an amp install in about 30 minutes. wires ran together. not routed well (hidden, or preventing interference) it's what alot of people will do because they're not looking for quality sound they're looking for loud. If you're buying your parts at walmart or similiar the sound quality will not be there so the attention to detail is not as critical vs you ordering some MB quart reference component speakers with crossovers (separate signal to a woofer and a tweeter) running off a phoenix gold amp. A good source to order stuff through if you don't have a local stereo shop that won't rape you is crutchfield.com they carry most all brands sell everything for a car stereo, and also have pretty detailed instructions for installs. When shopping for amps be sure you pay attention and only compare RMS wattage not peak. An amp claiming 1000watt peak could be $100 dollars. It will put out 1000watts when it's getting 18v and is about ready to catch fire. An amp that has 1000 watt RMS will cost $500 but will drive 1000watt to your speakers safely, cleanly, and reliably.