skidoo_j

4-month review: Well the zj clutch fan definitely is loud. It seems to move a ton of air and the truck stays cool. I did end up having issues with a belt squeal about 3-4 weeks after original install. I think it was a combination of things. 1. Old belt 2. slightly worn fan pulley (excessive slope in belt running surface) 3. Bad fan bearing 4. added strain due to additional engagement of clutch. I ended up pulling off the whole clutch fan bracket and pressed out the bearing $12(it's a standard water pump bearing). It had a bit of play it in and thought it could have been causing the squeal. It was not hard to do the only pain was getting the mounting plate back on perfectly, I ended up either pulling it off the old or pressing it on the new bearing crooked so i had to spin the whole bearing on the lathe to make the mounting surface square to the bearing rotation. Since replacing the bearing I've ran the truck in stop and go traffic on 100 degree days and the aux fan has not turned on. Infact I began to think it wasn't working, so on one 100 degree day i covered the front of the truck with plastic and blankets, it took almost 10 minutes from cold before it turned on. I can say that the aux fan runs less on my comanche with this clutch installed vs my brother's cherokee with a regular fan clutch while driving caravan. We both have new radiators from radiator barn, new water pumps, and both running stock thermostats. The only other difference is I converted mine to an open system with an aluminum pressure tank from Mac's radiator.

I ended up purchasing JKS uppers over rusty's simply because I ended up getting them cheaper after shipping. I purchased several things through 4wd.com and received a discount and free shipping. I've completed the install of the jks arms. While doing so I extended the lower's 1/2" over what's listed in the diy section. I installed a set of JKS ACOS and some Rancho shocks replacing the rusty's shocks. I think the on road characteristics so far with the JKS arms is much better. I've yet to go out and bury the speedo, but up to 65 it's smooth as glass. I like the JKS over the rusty's for the added flex and still retaining using factory bushings.

Dorman makes one. Part number : 82594 I've got one one my Overflow tank now and it's perfect.

Installed upper control arm bushing in front axle. Installed jks adj Upper control arms. Installed Acos by jks set caster to 6.5* installed new shocks Still need to zip tie the wires and tighten the shock bolts before test drive. Will set toe once on ground. Hell of a lot of work to go up just under .5", however the acos will allow me to adjust for a winch and keep my steering perfect and the lift the same. Will be replacing u-joints in my new to me auto front axle. In a few days. Tips or others: I put the new upper axle bushings in the freezer overnight. Makes the rubber hard so there's less give when pressing them in, also rubber and steel will shrink when cold. Get two sets of spring compressors and compress both sides at once. Makes it very easy and problem free when adjusting control arms for caster. Snug them up when truck is on springs, jack up body and the axle is free to move no need for prying on the axle...

They're not worth anything but shipping :brows: How about $50 so you can ship them to oregon, and I can dispose of them for you :D I've been shopping for an ARB or elocker for some time... The ARB runs about 4-600 used and 8-900 new. I didn't look to see which air compressor you had but most run about 150-200 with the switches new. As far as "dealer cost" I wouldn't worry about it. Have him make you an offer odds are he will be offering you less then dealer cost I mean he's not going to offer you more then what he can pay for it unless it's urgent. If he's not a close friend do you know he's not just going to turn around and resell it to a customer? You can always put it up on Craigslist for a week with a higher price and see what happens. If it were the lower carrier break I'd be making you purchase offers because then I could install it now.

You can post like 10 photos for free right now.

added cruiser54's under dash ground update. refreshed the drivers ground behind tail light added a ground to the passenger tail light replaced a tail light bulb or two. managed to break the tabs on the passenger tail light the bed side tabs. lens is still good. I put in a spare. anyone want it? pm me. otherwise i may epoxy it for a spare.

dasbulliwagen started one in 09.... but it looks like he didn't keep the wood paneling. Here's other pics from 2009 through out forum: 2007

no temp sensor method engine is off as it will be under pressure...

you have to "burp" the block. Most people do this by parking on level ground and then unscrewing the temp sender. Located on the firewall side of the engine beside the valve cover on intake side. It has a single wire going to it. Once unscrewed you add fluid to your tank until it starts to run out at temp sender, put the sender back in, then fill the tank about 1/2 full. close cap and check it in a few days. another ways is you can start it and run it to temp. leave cap off. wait until warm. shut off and wait there will be a point when a vacuum is created and the motor will suck more fluid if you prevent the tank from going empty you can accomplish burping it this way. then fill tank half way.

???? do you mean the yoke into the transfercase or the u joint specifically? Or slip yoke to drive shaft for "phasing" what is the benefit or reason to do this? Secondly after looking at your picture of your pinion angle being 0 and not having a double cardon shaft you maybe getting additional vibes in the shaft causing that extremely extended yoke to burn that seal faster too. here's some reference for that http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/driveline/ http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/PR-shaft/

Correct. But I personally don't like when people always create a new thread only to be directed to a thread that is just a few weeks old that covers the exact question. So I simply asked for clarification as to the availability and compatibility of the recommended yoke, as the OP had a 242 and I was unsure if the 242 has same yoke output as the 231. And i've not found where anybody has actually posted what vehicle this longer yoke by gm is on. all the ones i've found on ebay are advertised as longer shafts for the gm, so what's the stock length of the yoke for said gm... I'd rather pull one from a junk yard at $5 vs 70. I pulled mine and i currently have 2" inside the seal. I measured base to center of u-joint approx 5.25 I'm thinking if i had one that was 1/2" to 1" longer I'd be better off, so the wrangler yoke is an option, however i never see wrangler in the u-pull yards so they always want top dollar for parts

In the random picture thread someone posted a longer yoke at 7.5" for a GM. Is this a Junkyard pullable part or only a part to be ordered? Secondly is the one you've posted in this forum, 27 spline 8", compatible with a np231 in an 89?

i was looking at this one too http://www.harborfreight.com/3-inch-x-3 ... 67230.html

I've been looking to acquire a recovery strap and a tow strap for my truck. I was in harbor freight and saw their Haul Master brand recovery strap and tow straps. I'm wondering if anybody has used them or read any reviews on them? http://www.harborfreight.com/2-inch-x-2 ... 67232.html and http://www.harborfreight.com/2-inch-x-2 ... 36612.html http://www.harborfreight.com/3-inch-x-3 ... 67230.html I know their badland winches have been getting alot of publicity and good reviews for the price. I mean a 12k winch for 234 with coupon is a smoking deal.

mine is 45" collapsed 49.25" extended with a sye, and SOA. had a custom cv driveshaft made out of 3" or 2.5" tube, forgot to measure when i was just out there. it wasnt cheap coming in at $380. your setup needs to be corrected, either lengthen your driveshaft ( around $100 at my place) and fix the seal, or get a sye and have a custom shaft made for $$$. as it was stated before, the terra 2 low doesnt change gearing, it just allows you to be in 2wd low range instead of 4low. i just find it fun to see how far you can go in 2wd. sounds like the guy in town has a good gig charging $100 to install a seal and $250 to install a sye :ack: when i did my sye, it took 2-2.5 hrs. take your time and have a little patience and i would say most people can do it. or prepare to be bent over and screwed without lube by your trusted mechanic :popcorn: Replacing the seal for $100 is robbery, I guess it depends if the $250 included a rebuild when installing the sye. There's some decent liability there, and some stuff that a newbie could screw up.

He will need more than that driveshaft lengthened. Without e slip yoke, the driveshaft now needs to have a slip joint in it. In a Cherokee you can usually get away with a stock front driveshaft. In a Comanche you will need to have a front shaft lengthened, or have a custom one built. Neither of those two options is cheap. Nothing wrong with a slip yoke eliminator on a Comanche. Although they're not normally needed they are still a good upgrade. But I would not install one simply because the output seal is leaking. I would replace the $10 oil seal which takes all of 5 minutes, 4 of which is getting the old one out. If you want to have 2wd low range functionality, I think the $242 listed on that site is quite affordable. Did you perhaps look at the price for the 4-lo (4:1 low range) kit? That one is almost $1200. See I was unaware that I wouldn't just be able to run a front Cherokee drive shaft, that's what I was planning on doing. To my only option with a sye would be to get one custom made or lengthen? I also when to my local transmission shop and asked him what his suggestions were. I trust this guy, I have a few friends that have gotten there gears, lockers, manual trans , and transfer cases rebuilt buy him, He has the cheapest price on labor in town and his stuff holds up with no question. He told me that because of the lift, even with the new drive shaft I really still need a sye or the seal is going to keep going out, he said there is to much stress on that seal from the pressure and angle the drive shaft is at. He said he would replace the seal for about 100$ parts included if I wanted and he would install the sye with new drive shaft, parts Not included for 250$ labor. I didnt think that was to terrible.... Now if i did just do the sye, and get a new drive-shaft do you think I would be able to sell the old one on here? and if I could what would be a fair price to ask? Also yes I was apparently looking at the 4:1 kit, yea 242$ isn't that bad, how ever How low will it be after I gear? And what will my top speed be in 4hi? I tend to cruse down the beach at about 30 mph in 4hi. would I still be able to do this with that kit? The 2-low kit is not a re-gear. It's a set of levers that allow you to have 2wheel low. so you have 2h 4h n 4l 2l no gear reduction. It's great if have a locker up front, or solid passenger shaft etc. so you can launch a boat and still steer type thing

Just take your time and you can make it look like it belongs. It does make a pretty significant difference by just upgrading the harness. converting to the H4 housing and blubs was expensive as a whole for me, that's why I ended up buying cheap bulbs off ebay. The putco harness runs about 40 and the cheap housings off ebay are 40 for a set. I however made my own harness, about $12 in wire, 25 for high heat 12ga plugs, 3-4dollars worth of heat shrink, and 3-4 dollars worth of the wire cover. And solder. my relays and relay holders were from a jy pull... I'd but a round $50 on my homemade heavy duty harness. if you used 14 gauge wire and the high heat plugs by dorman ($11 autozone) it would probably be about half of what i paid. I bought IPF housings "better light spread", "thicker glass" vs the ebay ( i put these in "" because i have no personal comparison. I based my purchase off another CC thread) at $80 then $5 for some 100/90w ebay bulbs. I have yet to do cruiser54's other electrical mod under the dash for the ground. I plan to do it and also redo the ones behind the tail lights when i clean the plugs.

Buttoned up the Headlight conversion. I received the second IPF housing unexpectedly, so I got it installed put all the trim back on and reaimed the lights the best I could with out level ground. Night and day difference going from Sylvania sealed bulbs with stock harness to 12ga. harness with IPF housing and 100/90w ebay bulbs. If the hella and ipf fatty bulbs are better then my cheapy ebay bulbs I think I may need sunglasses at night, so I'll ride out the cheapies before I invest in better bulbs.

bummer, that would irritate me. so you saying you put the relays in the power distribution center box? They're in the same row that the factory ones are in under that plastic cover that reads "relay center" it's just that metal frame though. Nothing special other then its not screwed into the fender.

These were taken with the truck off, as it exaggerated it a bit more for the picture. I admit I was relatively surprised with the difference. I do hope that this may also eliminate my partial illuminated dash turn indicator, I imagine i'll have to replace those plug in housings to cure that... When I measured voltage on the passenger stock plug with the drivers side light connected and on I was getting 10.89V, when at the same time across the battery posts I had 12.87V. When disconnecting the drivers bulb passenger plug voltage went up to 11.9V. Surprisingly with the motor not running I had almost a volt of loss through the stock harness (when it was running and i took this measurement it was a 1/2 volt different). The wire loom I made used h4 ends from http://www.headlightplugs.com/H4.ht.html that had 12ga leads and high temp. I then ran a 12ga wire to each light from the relay rather than looping off. My relays are mounted in the "relay center" as I scrapped a few stock relays and mounts on my last trip to the jy, It makes it look a bit more factory. With my new harness and one bulb connected the other plug reads exactly the same as the battery. I really doubt there would be in voltage drop in 12ga wire. I'll get the passenger side IPF installed completely today and aim the light. Unfortunately I'm still waiting on my second housing, backorder through 4wd.com.

So here's the side by sides with the camera in manual mode. I did however point the lens in the exact same spot for high and low beam. The standard bulb is a sylvania sealed bulb nothing special and the H4 bulb is a cheapy 90/100w off ebay for 6 dollars for both bulbs in an ipf housing. Pictures are of only one bulb. Low Beam Sylvania Bulbs Stock wiring: Low Beam Sylvania Bulbs New Harness with Relays(same bulb as above, I couldn't believe the difference ): Low Beam IPF housing, $5 Bulb with Harness: High Beam Sylvania Bulb Stock Wiring : High Beam Sylvania Bulb Harness High Beam IPF housing $5 bulb w/ harness:

For the Peugot.... gear lube 75w90 is fine. You don't want too thick of a fluid. It will effect cold weather shifting. I know that Chrysler now recommends motor oil and a shorter OCL in the AX transmissions. The main driver for that was the desire to no longer carry the correct GL-1/2/3/4 fluids in their service centers. GL-5 is the current 'standard' spec for gear lubes. But like Marcel wrote, it contains too much sulfur in it for the yellow metal parts in the transmissions. But both Amsoil and Redline do still manufacture GL-4 lubricants specifically intended for transmissions needing gear lube. I used amsoil 75w-90 that they recommended for the tranny and my front/rear diff. As I looked up their site now it shows it's a gl5 oil. Should I be draining it and using something different? HOW FAST will this oil eat at my transmission? After doing alot of google searches it seems everyone is on board with the ax15 not using gl5 fluids. I did contact amsoil directly regarding their SVG line and yellow metals. They informed me that their SVG would have no ill effects or cause any issues up to 250*F once it hits that temp the sulfer breaks from their additives and then issues may be experienced. They do however make a MTG that is GL4 and is recommended for transmissions with brass. " It protects against rust, keeps seals soft for long life and is compatible with brass synchros for smooth synchromesh shift quality........AMSOIL Synthetic Manual Transmission & Transaxle Gear Lube is the replacement fluid for GM part #12346190 and Chrysler part #4874459 (Chrysler specification #MS-9070). " That being said I've also found that Redline has two products safe to use in the ax15 their MT90 or MTL penzoil makes one aswell, however when calling all of my local shops including chains noone had any on the shelf. I also called my local chrysler stealer-ship and asked them their recommendations, they informed me that they have used 10w40 in the ax15, but they followed that up with the change interval is about every two oil changes and only for very well maintained vehicles. The guy at the shop i spoke with seemed like the no BS type. He did say that people have run the gl5 for quite some time with very few ill effects, but the chance is there so usually they push their brand product used in the NV-4500 at $24 a qt. http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/mtg.aspx http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=46&pcid=7

Received my Heavy duty High temp h4 plugs today. Plan to have my wire harness all soldered up w/ 12 ga wire by tomorrow eve to give a stock vs wire harness vs h4 100w in ipf photos... http://www.headlightplugs.com/H4.ht.html

I was going through some folders on my computer trying to find a picture and found a pic i took when helping a friend who'd fouled some plugs on his Integra. He told me "he had tools" this is what I ended up using to get the spark plugs out. I thought someone may get a kick out of it, as I smile each time I've come across my photo.