skidoo_j

You may have never had an issue, but I look at it this way, the manufacture advises against it for legalities because they are uncertain if it could possibly lock in 2 wheel drive. After you installed the spartan and you did the lock test how firm did you need to hold your front drive shaft to lock the wheels? Regardless with you running the spartan up front with a straight axle do you hear the ratchet of the spartan at every corner? How long have you ran it this way? Do you check the teeth often?

Cheap Extended brake hoses for the front, would fit xj and mj Napa Part 38182 and 38183 they are about 4" longer not sure what they're from. they cost me 13 each. way better than any other i've found. they have a bracket you need to remove but for the price :)

MJs have CAD, right? :oops: 86-91 if original front axle or hasn't been welded or swapped for a straight axle sould have CAD. A very common thing for people to do is to replace the two piece passenger axle setup with the later model single piece axle, or simply swap the axle out too. the single axle design is stronger then the two piece style. In addition the vacuum system is not reliable after 20 years as most people never maintained the system, sometimes the actuator is stuck in the locked position or doesn't work at all. The vacuum actuator is on the passenger side of the axle. I removed this and replaced with a posi lock control another common modification is for people to pull the cad housing and move the clips inside to lock the fork so it holds the collar over the axle. fast test jack up the front end with motor off spin drivers wheel if passenger front spins the cad is not working or has been altered... if drivers spinns and passenger doesn't cad is still there... to test function with front still jacked up start truck put in 4x4 leave in neutral when spinning drivers wheel right side should spin opposite here's a post regarding the vacuum line routing for trouble shooting if you get that far or find it's not functioning viewtopic.php?f=2&t=35623

Richmond gears disclaimer on their powertrax noslip and lock rites NOTICE REGARDING FRONT AXLE APPLICATIONS: The Powertrax No-Slip Traction System works well on the front axle of 4-wheel drive vehicles provided a couple of important guidelines are followed. The Powertrax No-Slip Traction System should be used only on vehicles equipped with locking hubs on the front axle or with front axle disconnect. In addition, the vehicle must not be equipped with full time 4-wheel drive. Vehicles equipped with a Powertrax No-Slip Traction System on the front axle should not be operated on the highway with the front hubs locked and 4-wheel drive engaged. Following these guidelines will ensure very on-road driveability while still providing maximum off-road traction. Most full time transfer cases have a limited slip mechanism of some sort built in.

a lunch box locker is a locker that replaces the spider gears in a carrier. spartan, lockrite, no-slip, etc. the locker in the front "could" lock when turning in the front that is why the manufactures advise against it in the front of a vehicle w/o free hubs or cad. In theory as long as the drive shaft spins freely they shouldn't lock. the tire wear isn't bad as the truck is light, but i have about 5k on some good year duratrac tires and i've rotated them twice. the rears seem to be what's wearing down my tires. The edges of the tires get worn, the tire wear looks like they're cupping, but they're not

this is a decision I think we all face. One thing I will point out before i get into my opinions, In your front axle it is not recommended to have an auto-locker, unless you have a way to disengage it for street driving. IE you have the CAD or locking hubs. If you have the straight passenger side axle you end up with some odd steering characteristics and all manufactures advise against in unless off road only. Randy's ring and pinion recommended me the etched in the rear so you have a limited slip when not engaged and therefor will not get tire scrub and still have improved traction vs open, and gives you one more option once you get stuck. and either a straight elocker or ox locker up front. They are advocates of using minimal traction to get places until you need more ie 2x4 is what you drive the trail in and engage 4x4 when stuck, then lockers if still stuck. I personally went with lunchbox lockers because I didnt want to fork out the huge differences in money and did it to kind of get the feel. And was/am debating on gear changes. If you leap for non-lunchbox lockers you have carrier breaks that limit the gears you can install. With a D30 and D44 they're at different points so if you wanted to run at 3.55 and later decided you wanted 4.10 you'd have to get a new locker whereas if you have a lunch box they just replace the spiders in both carrier breaks. Because of those reasons I put a powertrax no slip up front and a lockrite in the rear. I kept the CAD but converted it to a posi-lock cable. In dirt / mud it's like a tank. point and go. Just the rear locker alone made dramatic improvements, however i feel that because of the light truck on the lockrite i do have tire scrub as i find it doesn't disengage when i corner at all under even light power and only when in very tight corners when not under power does it disconnect (parking lot). The front no-slip is to behave like a limited-slip-locker... it is supposed to be a more gradual lock and have better traction. According to their site it allows me to corner at slow speeds with out having to disengage the 4x4. if the vehicle is going to be used in snowy/icy areas regularly lockers front and rear will also change your driving and handling because of the crown in the road if you do get in a slick area the truck will have a tendency to go sideways. When in 2 wheel drive w/o sand in the back i just spun both wheels locked and i start doing a circle. put it in 4 wheel drive and i get moving, but then you can't turn for $#!& because the front locks up too and you just go. When i got in a patch of ice I had all four wheels spinning and i went sideways and found that by disengaging the posi loc i actually had 3x4 and i was able to baby the throttle and manage to drive out of it. Again no chains or weight in the bed. This was on a road with new snow fall and ice. In my area we don't salt roads and only main roads get gravel added. So if it starts to melt during the day and refreezes at night it's a skate park. I debate all the time to remove the front no-slip and either put back in the spider gears or pick up a select locker as i miss 2 lo and don't care for what feels like a left pull in my steering because its turning all the mass (carrier, drive line) vs the passenger side just turning a short axle. In my mind the best scenario for me would be a select locker up front and keeping the posi at the cad or converting to free hubs. This way I could have 2hi, 2lo, 4hi+lo open, 4hi+lo locked. up front. But i do a majority of my driving on the street and launching a boat, so I think id benefit having more options for the ohSh#t senarios. again these are my experiences and opinions.

I picked up the dynamax blackjack headers about a year ago. they had the egr tube port that I plugged because my attempts at connecting a rigid tube were not successful. Also I had already removed the vacuum lines to the egr solenoid so i just rid the hole system with a block off plate. Right now I'm working and freeing up the intake as the exhaust has such free flow with the header and down pipe.

a family friend had at TB of a GMC laying in his garage, Turns out they also had these freak 4.5mm x 0.75 aluminum screws that hold their TPS sensor too. So i've got a set now. Just waiting on my tap i had to order so i can clean out the threads first.

two bolts or screws. Ya man I would just go to a junk yard. I know of a couple of renix 4.0 xj's around here That I could prob get them from as a last option but It would prob cost ya in chipping and what the junk yard wants to part with them for. As a last option of course. Well that's always an option, but those screws must be made from aluminum or a grade 0.5 as they are very very weak and break easily. Atleast this has been my experience. I managed to snapp off both sets that were at the pick and pull :(

two bolts or screws.

anyone know where I can acquire the screws that attach the TPS to the TB on the renix. They're some freak size of 4.5mm-.75 I couldn't find them anywhere locally today.

or 3 and 2 was an earlier model's metric ton.

replaced the harmonic balancer. Trying to chase down a belt squeal to no avail. The old balancer was probably on it's way out as the rubber was becoming disconnected and a pretty good piece came out so i don't feel too bad having replaced it. But am even more confused now as to the cause of my serp belt squeal caused by it moving on the clutch fan pulley.

I replaced the harmonic dampener. The old one had some of the rubber coming out of the ring, however it did not solve my problem. When under hard acceleration or at certain rpm the serp belt walks to the front of the vehicle on the clutch fan pulley and squeals. It's loud... I held some sand paper on the pulley from the underside to clean up that lip encase there was a bit of rust accumulation, I held wax on the edge of the belt that rubs.. I cannot see any movement in any of the pulleys when the belt travels only the belt appears to shift, and only on that one pulley. between the idler and the power steering you can see some vertical vibes or waves in the belt, but no front to back movements. I watched the belt down the a/c pulley to alternator and see no shift in any direction. watching the belt from the dampener to the water pump there's no shifts in the belt. So i'm wondering if that pulley that drives the fan clutch could be bad, or the bearing that it spins on. problem is there is no part number through any parts store listings. So does it never go bad??? Could the belt be bad? Too tight, too loose? age of parts: water pump is about a year and half old a/c pulley a month idler is 2 years old dampener new (today) belt 3 yrs atleast clutch fan a month (zj)

That was my fear, but it doesnt have any odd motor vibes. And the harmonic balancer looks like it's spinning true. I'm thinking maybe the fan clutch pulley is off or just the extra pull the working fan clutch has put on it is causing the belt to move.

Recently I noticed a squealing sound comming from my engine compartment at 2200-3000 rpm. I opened the hood for investigation and found that when in that rpm range the serpentine belt walks forward on the clutch fan pulley and squeals. When watching the belt it appears in perfect alignment at sub 1k rpm. none of the others appear to be spinning akwardly. Both the idler pulley and the a/c pulley are new. I recently replaced the fan clutch so i rechecked the bolts and they're tight, I did use the zj fan clutch that is bigger. I'm trying to figure out what could be causing the walk. Belt tension seems fine, I can turn it to 90 degree with out having to wrench on it. Ideas or thoughts greatly appreciated.

tinted windows with gila 20%. not bad for under $30

It's not mine, but here are photos. I really want to purchase it, but the wife will not let me acquire another vehicle. :( It has an 8.8 in the rear with a rusty's lift infront with adj upper/lower control arms. has hitch.. non-factory video of motor from cl: 1991 Jeep Comanche 4x4 for sale; this vehicle has gone through a diesel engine conversion replacing the petroleum distillate powered AMC 4.0L with a 1982 Mercedes OM617 turbo diesel (124,000 miles). This conversion was chosen because the 4.0L had a mechanical failure and was longer capable of being reliable. The adapter used to mate the AX-15 manual transmission and the OM617 diesel was purchased from Mercedes 4x4's. This vehicle has a large number of upgrades one of which is the '98 Ford explorer 8.8 rear end with 4.10's; along with the rear end, i have replaced the clutch and all seals on the OM617. It also has a 4.5" lift to accommodate the front sump oil pan and all front axle bushings have been replaced, as well the cross over steering. the front end comes with quick disconnect links and 4.10 gears. When I was driving it, i consistently got approximately 33 to 36 MPG and has good horse power and torque as well. This project is just about complete, However, if I were to own it I would personally have a dual battery system, put on a long arm front suspension, a free flowing exhaust system, replace timing chain on OM617, adjust fuel timing for more power, install hydrobrake booster and upgrade steering column. those are just a few things i would do. Reason I must sell: I am currently a student at OSU and I will be graduating in June and after that i am moving. Unfortunately, I am not able to bring my project along with me, as I will be out of the country most of the time. Due to the circumstances I am flexible on the asking price and I must have this truck gone by the middle of June; this is an excellent field vehicle with one of the most dependable indirect injected turbo diesel ever engineered. If you are interested or have any questions please call, there is far more than I listed. Thank for your interest. 541 521 8670

IIRC you have to hack them off even if going sua so the ubolts can go through.

True an XJ axle rear leaf to leaf is about 2.5-3" narrower. So you have to cut off the spring perches and weld on new ones. This is when you decided if you;re going to go spring over axle too... i bought new perches from ruffstuffspecialties but just about everyone sells a version. I went with them because i went soa and they had the longest perch to help prevent axle wrap.

Gears/axles from an auto trans MJ would be a good step to take. Better yet, some 4.10s out of a 4 cylinder MJ. Bored TB from http://www.strokedjeep.com, have a headpipe made that eliminates the "crush" in the stock one, High altitude CPS, free flowing exhaust system. Do you have one of the bored TB? Did it come with a new butterfly? Did you have to modify the intake opening? Gaskets any different? Noticeable difference at what rpm's, mpg, more acceleration etc. ?

nothing wrong, clutch will need replaced in the next 20k. and had read external is better. I was looking to purchase the luk pro clutch kit and it comes with an internal.

I went with rusty's due to cost for the lowers at the time. I've got a little extra right now and know the jks is supposed to be superior. I'm going to be going up another 3/4" up front now and will need uppers so I'm exploring my options. My rusty's have OEM bushings at both ends with a jamb nut at the adjustment to prevent movement. I'm just debating if i'd be better off going jks on the uppers or if i should just stick with rusty's

Do you have a ball park guess as to price on the external bellhousing/availability? I'm assuming this is a JY part not something i can p/u at napa/autozone etc. What vehicles came with the external slave bell housing?

Okay so this may have been answered prior, but i've gone through 6 pages of searches and not found what I'm looking for. I see that some people are "upgrading" to an ax15 with external slave and paying 2-300 more for this style, but I have an AX15 with internal slave on the truck. Can an AX15 be converted from internal to an external slave? How difficult? Parts/ Prices? Bell Housing Modifications? I did find one thread about an internal to external conversion, but it was for an ax-4 and ax-5, I assume it is not all too similar.