skidoo_j

You want enough air to prevent cupping which will cause wear on the outside of tread. However you don't want too much pressure as it could cause the center of the tread to bulge out causing wear in the center of the tread. Even through I have 31/1050's I still use the factory air pressure of 33 ish psi. I use this because I've not noticed any issues with odd tread wear. 30 psi is going to be right in there too. Do not however read an article about using the ideal gas law to determine you need lower pressure in larger tires. The argument the company makes is incorrect as the ideal gas law assumes a sealed container where more molecules of air cannot be added. Therefore bigger tires do not mean you need to run less air pressure. With that said this is for on-road-driving. In an off road scenario people with beadlocks can run only 2-3psi iirc. I do not have beadlocks, and if going off road will air down to about 20 psi.

Hesco made one for awhile, but I can't find where anyone still sells it seperatly. They still sell their kit online for like 170, all it has is this adapter, a factory 90 and a cone. It's pretty simple so my guess is the adapter they made is where most of the cost comes from. Based on what they did i bet you could get a local shop to make one pretty easy, they could make out of steel and make ti shallower. Last one i saw was sold used here; http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1085755

Correct on the lengths being longer, also the comanche leafs are not centered either whereas the cherokee are, I've heard of some cherokee owners using the mainleaf off a comanche with the eyes hacked off to make a bastard back, IIRC they net 1-2" of lift. Check or search for junk yard upgrades on naxja. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/budg ... xj-847303/

Be sure to download them and save them, No telling how long they'll be up

I never ordered anything from his company. When they wouldn't tell me where they sourced their steel from. I also read that his company was unreliable, I was unaware he had stolen so much. It's unfortunate that people try to screw people to make a living.

Isn't that the basis of most churches? sorry guys but damn, he lost his business, now he's selling his truck I think karma took care of him. I just don't recall this much animosity towards the guy when he was active on here. I hope the CC community doesn't turn on me when I too decide to sell my truck, if and when the day comes. I by no means am defending his actions, but he did contribute to the site and information for various products. Damn I'm starting to sound like a bleeding heart. There better not be more changes like this in my life as I'm becoming a father.

If you use the aluminum spacer plate between the booster and firewall there is no need to touch the lip. I had to slide the old reservoir forward about 1/2" to avoid contact with the booster, easy. Then later I installed the 97+ XJ reservoir inside the left fender, so had lots of room. :D http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=5840 easier said then done on mine, I did an open conversion and used the 2.5 overflow bottle and I'm still using the factory air filter box. I'm not sure if I have 1/2" to move the washer fluid res. Would someone who has done the 96 diaphragm conversion take a moment and measure from firewall to end of booster and to end of master cyc. So I could check for clearance.

95-96 XJ swap is PnP for the 91-92 models. For PnP on a Renix you have to use the 91+ brake switch and splice some wires. I think if you retain the Renix switch you must grind the brake rod flat to make contact, but I haven't done a Renix model swap. So no BFH is needed to tweak the lip above the booster? does the 91 have the same washer fluid res?

I'm wanting to get the easiest dual diaphragm upgrade. I've read all about it in the past between here, madxj, naxja and a few other, but it seems most of my bookmarks are now dead. So I scrolled through the DIY forum here and couldnt find what I was looking for. I know some have used a 97+ xj but then ended up having to pull the rod and rebuild it. so people were using a 95/95 xj and adding the flat spot and enlarging the hole. (firewall spacer needed) I also see people were using '00 wj. (no spacer needed?) But IIRC one combination did not require relocation of the washer fluid bottle or modifying the firewall lip, but I can't seem to find the build/mod stating which one it was. Anyone having insight as to which did not require modifications or relocation other then the push rod for the switch would be greatly appreciated. I think I may have read where they used a dual diaphragm booster from one and a mc from a different one etc. Thanks in advance.

Not quite sure how the TPS sensor not getting put on the correct side would cause a muffler to blow up. Your ecu should have detected a very lean condition and then adjusted the impulse width of your injectors accordingly. I've ran my truck with the tps disconnected and never had an issue. Too bad this happened to you, but I'm not quite sure if you found the correct cause for your results.

Drained the tranny and swapped amsoil SVG 75w90 gl5 for Redline mt90 because of the possible deterioration of the brass syncro when the tranny fluid gets hot. I got the redline mt90 due to availability as I nolonger have a local amsoil dealer, otherwise i would have bought some amsoil MTG. I was rather surprised how dark the fluid had become in under 4k miles. Hopefully the GL5 was not in there long and hot enough to cause damage. I do have to say, even though most likely the placebo effect, it shifts better and smoother. Also pulled the fan clutch yet again because I finally got the replacement pulley. The old had a pretty significant tapper worn to it. Now my belt does not appear to walk at all :) Now it has a new fan clutch (zj), new fan drive pulley(crown 53010309AB), new fan pulley bearing, and serpentine belt, new idler pulley, new a/c pulley. The list goes on and on and on. All that's left now is: Install the new universal joints in the front drive line. Obtain a longer slip yoke and paint the truck and line the bed.

Shaft Diameter : .6267" Bearing Diameter: 1.1811" Total Length: 4.56" Short Side (fan side): 1.10" Long Side (goes up inside bracket not all to important on this length): 1.930" Looks like napa BRG 885154B would work, it wouldnt have the shaft that goes back inside the bracket, but if you can't source it else where, It looks like it would still need a bit of shortening. but 12 dollars beat 120 for the bracket with the bearing (that's the only way my dealership would sell me). Good luck.

Part number and source please. Need to replace mine tomorrow as it's going off road Friday. Sorry don't have a part number, I pressed mine out then took to a bearing supply store in my home town. Put it on the counter and he handed me one that I had to cut one shaft to length. I'll get you some exact measurements of the old one so you could call your local autoparts. I'm thinking the autoparts places that supply old school cars may have them on hand, like napa or carquest, maybe baxters.

You would be correct on that Skidoo. I took another look at the passenger side and, as fate would have it, the other horn is MIA and my guess is that it's the Low tone horn (before I swapped wheels, the horn still on there had that high, whiney tone :ack:) Good thing I picked up 2 spare horns then. Oh well, I had to remove the front header panel anyway to clean up some of that headlight wiring the PO did. I'll post back if I can get everything working. One last question: Does the wire running to the column have constant power running to it? Just so I can know which to splice into to run it to the toggle switch on the dash. The switch in the steering wheel is powered by the accessory circuit. My assumption is however that there's a relay somewhere that the horn button activates. simply because the hokey switch in the steering wheel would not support the current of two horns. If it's not setup through a relay I'd set it up through one if I were in the process of redoing them. Napa shows this as the horn relay for an 89 http://napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogIt ... 0273791734

Crown Part number for the Over Flow bottle is 52003213 (quadratec, rustysoffroad, Morris4x4, discount jeeps parts) Part number for the cap is Dorman 82594 (autozone, schucks, napa)

I'm thinking both wires contact at the same point. All the horns I've seen that are jeep ground through the bracket. Those that are not jeep horns have two distinct contact terminals usually separated. From the video it appears both wires are coming out of the same contact, so my guess is one loops over to the passenger side for a high-low tone dual horn set up. I do not have the second wire at the plug, I do however have the second plug on the passenger side so mine maybe spliced further up. I'd be willing to bed if you pulled that plug off the horn there would be only one male connector on the horn.

I'm thinking the 6 or so wires that go to the back of the truck are pretty easy considering 4 of them are for lights. Also the 90 fsm links has had sections for just the Comanche.

Haynes Like manual: http://www.greatlake...anual_84-93.pdf FSM factory service manuals: what years are you looking for? 90 http://www.greatlake.../tech/90fsm.pdf 88 http://www.greatlake.../tech/88fsm.zip http://www.greatlake.../tech/93fsm.zip http://www.greatlake.../tech/94fsm.zip the one for the 01 file name is 01_XJ_FSM.? but i'm not sure if that's correct as i couldnt' find it again... his tech page and the links are all down but it seems most of the files are still on his server so www.greatlakesxj.com/tech/.... 97XJ.pdf parts catalogs: 1988-1990_parts_catalog.pdf 1991-1993_parts_catalog.pdf 2001_parts_catalog.pdf 1997-1999_parts_catalog.pdf Renix_Fuel_Injection_Manual.pdf

With our transfer cases having the long snout why does everyone hack the shaft, that means some sort of new housing right? I was wondering why you couldn't tap the shaft at the length it is now, and just get a new yoke that either uses straps or u-bolts. I was debating on doing this then getting a drive shaft that slips in the shaft, but not jump to the double cardon. The main thing i'd gain is if my u-joint broke, or the shaft broke I could drive with out it. also I wouldn't have to shim the rear axle. I guess a follow up question is if i located a rear driveline that has the slip in the shaft that's a single cardon, can that same shaft be used by just adding a double cardon at the end? I'm not sure because I think part of the "centering ball" in the Double cardon is part of the yoke of the drive shaft.

In my area they're able to replace cat back in under an hour, but that's if they're not too busy. Usually you've got 2-3 jobs ahead of you when you arrive. If you're wanting some sort of special muffler i'd make sure they have it in stock if you're wanting to get it done in one trip, otherwise you could go in have them throw up in air and give you options then they'll order the muffler and or cat if need. Cost, well that's going to depend on where your break is, if the muffler is bad, if you want a patch or a full replacement. I'd expect anywhere from $50 to 250 for a muffler and tail pipe fix. But the range is huge because there's ton of options and things that could need fixed/repaired. If your cats bad/ rusted etc that's 120 alone for the cat. a muffler will run 50-150 depending on brand and desired dB. The headers are common to break up by the intake manifold, other then that it's just looking for cracks and breaks in the pipe that may need replaced or simply patched.

Assuming the whining sound you hear at first is your fuel pump then the clicking is the starter solenoid. Even though you charged the battery overnight it could be: A totally dead battery that did not take the charge, - take a multi meter reading and see if resting voltage is above 12v.... have someone turn the truck over while you measure, does it go way way down? Have someone jump, connect the negative on your engine not on battery. It could also be the starter solenoid, sometimes whacking it a few times will get it out of a dead spot. The alternator would not be a possible for not starting. it could be for not charging the battery, but not for starting. Starting is battery, starter, ignition switch if not turning over. If turning over and not starting cps (at fly wheel), wires at stator, distributor, coil, fuel.

IIRC the dome fuse is the constant power to the radio. and the radio fuse is the ACC power to the radio. Which is funny because most of the power draw on a radio is on the constant power side. Atleast this is how mine was when I faced the same issue as you currently and I traced all the wires from the radio trying to figure out what the PO had screwed up now, but I found no splices that were not factory.

I don't have a build thread, I was probably going to do something like a couple of others have done, wait until it's 99% done (painted is the last thing to make it 99%)then post 3 years worth of trial and error :) Current stance : Install:

Updating for reference: Crown Part number for the Over Flow bottle is 52003213 (quadratec, rustysoffroad, Morris4x4, discount jeeps parts) Part number for the cap is Dorman 82594 (autozone, schucks, napa)

You would be incorrect. You can convert a closed system to an open system and retain the purge tank and stock radiator design. To convert to open on the cheap side is an inline filler with a pressure cap with a barb that will connect to an additional tank. I'm my case I opted for an alluminum tank and ran it to a factory 2.5 coolant bottle. viewtopic.php?f=2&t=32876&start=30 http://www.macsradiatorshop.com/surge-o ... tanks.html