skidoo_j

after you've used that double drive a few times please provide all of us a review. I was interested in getting one, and one of the screwdrivers, but was apprehensive as it sounded too good to be true and i figured it would be of weak materials.

From all references i have, and it's been discussed multiple times. you want a 95-96 xj or a 00 wj you'll need to make the push rod ring larger on both if you keep you same pedal assembly. and make a flat edge for the brake light. 95-95 i think has more common brake line ends where the wj is a bell.

*Wouldn't work*

I too purchased one just to make omelets and over easy eggs. I seasoned the pan like it suggested and it worked beautifully as long as the pan was hot, there was just a wipe of oil, and the pan never got over heated before you put the egg on. I used it regularly for two month making eggs every morning. It was awesome I had over easy eggs that were perfect non-broken yokes, and the whites were perfect and had no burnt edges. I never washed it, I'd just wipe it out after every use with an oiled towel to keep the seasoned effects. Then we had family visit. The MIL used the pan, must have over heated it, she burned stuff to the bottom then washed it with who knows what. It's never been the same. Everything sticks to it now. Everything! It's pretty much garbage. I'm just glad it was $20 and not a $120 pan gamble.

You shouldnt' have lost enough fluid to make a difference. Yes the fluid from the diff will get over to the cad and stop at that seal. You could always check your diff fluid in 100 miles or so...

Call oldman emu directly they may have leaf sets. alot of times they have stuff that doesnt always get listed. they have a location out of washington. http://www.arbusa.com/Contact.aspx

You would not receive a lift by using xj springs. MJ springs are alot longer and have a significant arch vs xj springs. There are a few places out there that sell mj lift springs. Hell creek is great, i think rusty's it trying. the front springs are the same, but the rears are way different. A cheaper method would be to make a bastard pack of leafs look through the diy forum there's junkyard tips and spring pack references on there.

I'd like to acquire the switches on the left side of the column. the fog and rear cab light. With the logos. I don't have the rear cab so i'd make that the rollbar light switch. and the switches on the right would become lockers when i get there.

http://www.rimsntires.com/specs.jsp You can use this one to see the difference different wheels/tires will produce.

Wheel Technical Information

All the time. I even caution what I post on here. It seems every time someone does something bad the first thing the news broadcasts are publishing is what was on their facebook profiles and the internet. Whats worse yet is people are getting fired for stuff they post on facebook, even if it happened years ago.

Maybe a dumb question but are you sure the tires aren't catching the control arms causing binding? Maybe the turn stops just need adjusted.

The WJ arms do require the bushings to be ground down. People have done it with just an angle grinder. Another option would be a set of wheels with a smaller backset, or getting some bolt on style wheel spacers. It would make your tires stick out of your wheel wells a bit.

Well I'd say that if the truck was at stock height you'd probably never notice any difference. With my set up It's kinda like a house of cards. My caster is at 5.5* with driving weight now. When I had paid to have it aligned I had about 500lbs in the back of the truck with still new MT 4+1 rear springs. Well the next day i removed all 500 lbs. The springs unloaded and i had a slight wobble. Took it back in for measure and the caster had changed out of spec and another alignment was required. So i took it home and adjusted the caster myself with out the weight. and she drives great with or with out weight.

The Toe was effected when he put 2" coil spacers on. then ad a reverse rake that would increase (closer to 0) his caster, a slight shimmy would be expected. If you don't think rake could effect the toe, go measure your toe then put 1k of weight in the @$$ and re measure. The front will lift some due to the weight. Secondly if the rear of the truck goes down the lower arm goes forward around the pivot of the wheel. This changes the caster slightly, which in turn will also change your toe. An alignment of both caster and toe should be performed or checked after every alteration to front or rear suspension. I learned the hard way to be sure to do the alignment with driving load. So if you plan to have a canopy the alignment needs to be done with the canopy on. and redone if you remove the canopy and plan to drive for any length of time. If for nothing other to ensure best mileage on your tires. You can check toe at home w/ a 2x4 and a tape measure and check caster with a $9 angle gauge.

toe and caster would be effected by rake. they can both cause shake upfront.

I'd like to see more detailed pictures of those plates they used for the lower arms installed. I know the owner of this MJ is on here, hopefully they post tons of pictures of the completed "trucks renovations". Also looking forward to his comments on handling and flex. I'm curious if they made him buy all the parts or if they were "gifts".

I went to the episode site and the wheels were Classic II, Aluminum, Matte Black, 16 in.- 8.0 in., 5 x 4.50 in. Bolt Pattern, 4.437 in Backspace. the tires were Baja Claw TTC, LT 315 /75R16, So with the terra flex wheel spacers the effective backspace is 3.18". With a tire that wide and tall I'm still sticking there's going to be a hell of a lot of rubbing before the steering would contact the dif cover. Garvin true regarding the bump steer being caused by the track bar drag link relationship, however the effects of bump steer are dramatically worse with a y-link set up imo. Probably the biggest is that when using y-link if the suspension is stretched you get toe in, and when compressed it toes out. So if you're going down a bumpy road your tires can start an in and out weave/wobble in addition to the bumpsteer.

On this particular jeep I saw spidertrax spacers on the rear so I'd guess they're on the front too. The wheels didn't appear to be that shallow of backspacing, my guess is 3". I guess my theory is I wouldn't spend the money for the offset parts if my steering was limited to protect my tires. To me i'd rather protect my tires then to turn sharp and let them bind against the control arms and possibly damage truck or tire. I like the knuckle to knuckle design dramatically if not completely eliminating bump steer.

What's the point of having steering knuckles that turn that far? I only have 31" tires and I had to lengthen my stops so the tires didn't rub. With the tires being 35" I'd guess they'd hit even sooner.

I purchased this one from quadratec. It matched up with the OEM holes. fit my 89 with ax15. It's the one that screws to the tunnel. http://www.quadratec.com/products/52106_03.htm

Yeah Cruiser has a procedure for removing the towers in the valve cover, cutting them an inch shorter and drilling a whole in them. I did his procedure on my 89, have had no adverse effects. I did however find that in 89 jeep had already drilled the wholes in the towers, so I just cut mine 3/4". I did not have any blow by prior to doing the mod, I just did it because my valve cover gasket was leaking. What I did find out is that by replacing all the vacuum hoses the diameter of the hose from VC to manifold is very important, too big and it got too much air and it pulled enough air through the valve cover it would raise the idle. http://comancheclub....r-vent-options/

Walk over to your neighbors and ask them if they know anything. if they're coy or otherwise seem like they are being dishonest when they respond, calmly say you just can't figure out what happened to your truck and thank them stating hopefully it's not someone vandalizing vehicles in the neighborhood. then return the favor. and unscrew the valve stems from their tires, while leaving them in just enough that it can be filled with air. Takes lots of people a really really long time to figure it out. It's not vandalization, could be considered mischief, but just don't get caught.

Just an idea... Take off your bumper. remove or modify the thin piece of metal that runs between the bumper mounts. The one with the hole in it in the photo. attache a piece of angle iron or such between the two bumper mounting areas, weld and arm off of it that would come out and clamp to the steering. it would stiffen the frame and box probably better then the 3/4" rusty's tube, and wouldn't interfere with the radiator.

https://www.rsracing.com/tech-wheel.html