skidoo_j

Correct. You can just disconnect them at the speaker, be sure to prevent the ends from touching each other and the truck if you're going to just leave them there, wrap with ends with electrical tape etc. By not cutting them at the deck it makes it faster to remove the amps setup when you sell the truck. Also it is best not to run your 12v from battery and your RCA cables from the deck beside each other for any significant length. This is more important with cheaper RCA wires.

Correct. You can just disconnect them at the speaker, be sure to prevent the ends from touching each other and the truck if you're going to just leave them there, wrap with ends with electrical tape etc. By not cutting them at the deck it makes it faster to remove the amps setup when you sell the truck.

You can use and amp for full range speakers, however your deck needs to have outputs that cover full frequencies. There are ways around it, but they require other components and are nolonger worth it as a Deck with 6 rca out is only a hundred dollars. the basics... You need an 8 gauge fused 12v+ from the battery to the amp(or larger pending wattage). You need to run rca from the deck one for left/right of front and rear assuming you're running 4 channels off the amp. Then you need your amp turn on wire. A good ground at the amp. Then you run wires to each speaker. I usually ran 12gauge speaker wire to each full range speaker. the benefits will be: your speaker life will increase, you'll hear better sound. Bad thing is if your amp is powering stock speakers odds are you can't really turn the volume up all the way as they're not designed to handle the power and can blow up. Non-oem speakers love power and will get cleaner and cleaner (within reason assuming you're not going to send a 50watt rated speaker 70watts). reason your speakers will sound better your average deck that says it's 50wattx4 is peak, the actual rated power is about 5-10 watts per speaker. where as your amp if a good brand being sold at 50wx4 is going to put out 50wx4. Some of the cheaper amps will actually put out 25 when sold as a 50. so powering non stock speakers that want more power will operate in their correct power band range so they'll last longer with cleaner power.

Good tips thanks, I checked the connections at the T-case then traced the vacuum lines up to their connection point. Everything appeared to be connected properly. Help me out with those abbreviations, what is the CAD and IAC? I thought there was an acronym decoder on this site somewhere. IAC Idle Air Controller It's on your throttle body. Its controlled by your ecu and moves a pintle in and out to control air flow at idle. During start it opens wide and is supposed to then close to control your idle 500-700 rpm. CAD central axle disconnect. It's a vacuum actuated fork that moves a shift collar connecting your inner an outer axle on the passenger side. It's controlled by a valve on the back of the transfer case. When in 4x4 it allows vacuum to pull the fork into the locked position, the vacuum then continues up to the switch that controls the dash light. The switch on mine was a blue round thing under the purge tank near the fire wall. It is a switch to ground. First test the switch by disconnecting the vacuum to the switch, if the light goes out then the light switch is good and your problem is the actuator at the axle or the switch at the back of the transfer case.

Is this a legit truck? I've never seen a photo of a dually comanche before. It looks OEM. Did someone just do a good job modifying one?

The 4x4 light is coming on because the sensor under the purge tank on fire wall is receiving vacuum. Could mean there's a problem at the vacuum valve at the transfer case or at the CAD. The light turns on when the axle is engaged not when the transfer is in 4x4. only real way to see if it's stuck engaged is to jack up front end when running an spin the drivers wheel, if the passenger side spins the actuator is holding the front axle locked. It will not cause any problems, they did away with the cad and put a solid axle on the passenger side in later models, often upgrade by those of us with CAD. Your extreme idle could also be a stuck IAC. http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Eng ... ostics.htm

5.03/ gal for 92

Installed new outer axle u-joints and timken unihubs. Also changed the Dana 44 pinion yoke to a u-bolt style.

Not sure that one for the wrangler would work. It has that notch in it and also the hole is off center. Id be worried it would split pretty easy because of that. I could be wrong though. Fit perfectly on my 89. Screw holes even lined up. He's got a 4.0 too.

http://www.quadratec.com/products/52106_03.htm

https://www.treadwright.com/c-7-31-10-5r15.aspx

How thick of a spacer are you guys using on a 95-96 booster into a <89???? According to the specifications the push rod on a 95 is 5.75" where the <89 rod is 5". This measurement is from booster to center of push rod. The stock spacer only appears to be 1/2" at best. Am i missing something, wouldn't that mean that your brake pedal is pressed in 1/4" at all times? Or is there enough slack in the pedal assembly to allow it to just sit 1/4" further from the floor board making the brake and clutch offset? I could see the 95-96 being a benefit because you don't have to screw with the brake line adapters for the sizes, however still relocating the washer bottle is probably a no go for me. Because I converted to the open system with the aluminum purge tank and am using a 2.5 overflow see my pic. If a 97 washer bottle was available around me it maybe different. I'd much rather buy a 95-96 as a reman booster and new master would be about 130 vs 240. Another question, when everyone did the booster upgrade did anyone keep the weight proportioning valve? Here's a pic from jpmagazine. left is 89mj middle 95xj right 00wj-- you can see the push rod length differences.

Ordered timken hub bearings. and new outer axle ujoints. Decided that with 133k on the originals it wouldn't hurt to replace them even though they don't seem to be loose or making any sounds, its just the last things that are on the front axle that are not new. I ordered them through autozone.com, saved some $$ by entering a bigger city zip code, Then i got free shipping at $30 on a gift card coming too. I'm planning to install these before i mess with the alignment any more. Then I'm going to take the rear drive line to get it balanced and/or replaced. at same time I might replace the yoke on the 44 with one of the u-bolt style. Check out this video I found reviewing the "store" brand unihubs. http://www.youtube.com/embed/8zHBxwwOg6s

I'm not 100% sure how the alignment shop's machine reads caster. But the tech told me I'm off by 5* Which is crazy, I could see if i was at 5*. The screen showed that I should be at 0 degrees? I'm going to add a couple shims to make it a little more positive. Just looking at the ball joints if i go 5* neg it looks like they'll be over the top of each other. And if I went 5* more positive the pinion would be pointing downwards. When I put the angle finder on the diff cover bolts according to http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoAlignment.htm I'm right on, unless i'm 87.5 the wrong way...

Looks to be from the Wj based on what you did, and the appearance. the 97 plus requires the rod to be replaced based on my readings. I noticed in your photos that the washer bottle is not attached, were you able to attach it back in the factory location? I think I'm set to pick up a wj set up, seems best option for pre 90's. as it's only 3/16" longer rod so all is needed is minimal spacer, drilled rod, ground flat and good to go. Still in air if washer bottle needs relocated. the 95-96 is a direct bolt on with 91+ un-sure of spacers as i didn't research it much. I've read that the 95-96 rod is actually 3/4" longer then pre 90 so it's advised to space it or cut and weld. Thanks everyone for your help and pictures. It's really helpful. I like when we can gather information all in one thread rather then across 20.

If you are using the 2.5 overflow bottle, you can relocate the washer resivoir to above the HVAC fan.....it fits there like a glove. Just drill two holes in the pinch seam and bolt it in: Image Not Found Image Not Found Jeff did you change out the pedal assembly in the cab too, or did you space out the diaphragm to make the push rod the same length?

Yes, yes, and AFAIR it ran me about $240 shipped. But try to get your original balanced first. Been racking my brain to think of things that I have not replaced that could cause some issues.... uni-hubs, the outer axle u-joints

I had inconsistent vibes and after trying everything you did plus a lot more. I pulled the drive shaft and brought it to a local shop for balancing. The foam wrapping was deteriorated and the guy could not balance it and get consistent readings. No charge from him, and he recommended getting a replacement. I did (a custom fm. Tom Woods) and it the vibes went away. If all else fails, at least have a shop check the shaft balance. Did you get a longer shaft made through tom woods? Did you stay with the slip yoke? What did it run you?

a renix system only has one O2 sensor. It's located near the manifold above the connector, its easier accessed if you remove your front drive line if 4x4. It's a pain to get out usually you have to heat the bung up until it's glowing orange and use a end wrench and a bfh to get it out. Some people try to keep the o2 sensor cold with a wet rag so the metal on it doesnt expand. When I tried it it was just too much to control, not burning the crap out of the intake/ egr/ clutch hoses etc while yanking on a wrench that's hot as hell and keep cycling a wet rag to the o2 sensor. I guess more stuff could be removed to improve access even more. I did chase my threads once I got the o2 sensor out, but I don't recall what tap it was.

OEM drive shaft. The u joints are Newer they were replaced shortly after doing my SOA.

This is more of a rant then a request for help, However any guidance that's not the typical would be appreciated. Here goes. My truck ran well, drove the road well and had no issues. I was running stock upper control arms, rusty's adj lowers, rusty's 3" springs, a dayco spacer 1", 31x10.5 good year duratracs. I got a wild hair and decided i wanted to level it out more, so I replaced the dayco spacer with a set of acos by jks. (at lowest setting so gained about 3/16") and added a set of jks adj upper, at the same time i replaced the upper axle mounts. I extended the lower arms 1/2" then adjusted the upper to get my caster at 6.5* my toe is set to 1/16". and i've fing have the on shimmies of death wobble showing. so first thing i did the shake down of all tie rods, there's a little loose at the pitman arm, but not enough to allow any. the track bar is solid and i see no shift when on the rack, ball joints look and seem solid. Keeping in mind they're barely over a year old. I checked my toe and caster again they're fine. now i notice i have a vibration at 20-25 mph then at 45-55 so for the lower i through oh must be ujoints, so i removed the front drive shaft thinking that' s the only ones that the angle has changed on. shimmy is still there. Came home after that test drive threw the back in the air on stands. at 5mph i have a pretty bad driveline vibe, but it's gone once it's past that. ran it up to 85+ while on the jack stands and let it coast back down no vibes. Had the wife hold it at 20-25 and 45-55 and didi not see any rear tire hoping or any noticeable drive line issues. :ack: I'm at the point now where I want to roll it down my drive way with a forsale sign on it and just watch it drive away. I'm so pissed at the suspension/ death wobble!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I picked up a new tierod at pitman arm. I'll swap it out tomorrow, I have an apt at 3pm for the alignment shop to measure my alignment and check balance on tires. But if i still have it after 3pm tomorrow I'm at a loss. Oh i also went through all the bolts in the front and checked all torque. 55ftlbs on upper arms 130 on lower arms, Friggin JEEP!!!!!

Nice, I think the shop vacuum hose is really sexy for $500

Using side walk chalk is pretty smart. I've done it with chalk line chalk and coun't tell a damn thing cuz it went everywhere.

How much trimming is required on the rear wheel well for our comanche?

i've not had this issue with mine, however I've read the 91 uses a different switch style that allows shims to be installed. It's possible you could scrap a brake pedal assembly from a 91+ to change switch styles. Which would also make an upgrade to a dual diaphragm brake booster simpler in the future.