skidoo_j

are the autopals glass lenses? Mine are. Would you be willing to take a night shot of the light cast with those clear lenses? I'm wanting to see the dispersment of light. anyone with a set of the autopals with "ecode" have a picture? anyone with a set of hella or IPF housings willing to do the same... I'm about to place an order for a bunch of parts and they sell IPF, but if the autopals are equivalent might as well save $40. I do realize that different bulbs would make a difference in the light, but i'm looking at pattern alone and the cut off. I'm sure we'd all love it if someone had a housing from each company and used the same bulb in each on the same vehicle and had pictures comparing each.

are the autopals glass lenses?

I bought this set of six from precision injectors and have been very happy. http://www.precisionautoinjectors.com/p ... tegoryId=3

viewtopic.php?f=9&t=11693

Wishing doesn't get it done. Calling people stupid for someone overpaying for an item in your opinion for something they want is also stupid. Describing a buyer's purchase price as ridiculous for very rare NOS parts is also ridiculous. Some people want NOS parts because they really are NEW OLD STOCK and might never be available again. Plus they can afford it. If you can't, no need for negative comments. I have to agree with hornbrod here. There was more than just one person bidding to get it that high. So obviously the value of NOS tail lights was set at the end of the auction. I personally don't have a comanche worthy of such nice things, however if someone was doing a perfect restore... What's also nice about auctions like this is everyone needs to print a copy for insurance purposes, just incase you get rear ended you have proof that your tail lights are very expensive.

That's crazy you got 3" of lift from stock 4x4 to the MT. According to everything I've read or encountered a new set of stock should be with in 1/2" of MT springs. So most people will see an inch or two in lift with new MT springs just because of the settling and sag of the OEM leafs. 3-4" is crazy. Your old leafs must have been incredibly tired. I recently had a new set of MT 4+1 made to factory specs and only received 1.5" on drivers and about .75 on passenger and I'm SOA. Maybe hellcreek and Eagle could chime in here, but I think it's been discussed before, however the proof of what 88blue got out of his springs is in the pictures...

http://medford.craigslist.org/cto/3116698835.html looks perfect in the pictures

I used a ratchet strap tied through and around the carrier and then attached it to a slide hammer. I was afraid of marring the case/carrier with pry bars. Oh I also tied the strap up to the bed of the truck so that if it bounced out too hard it wouldn't hit the ground...

http://eugene.craigslist.org/cto/3111612032.html

For the Peugot.... gear lube 75w90 is fine. You don't want too thick of a fluid. It will effect cold weather shifting. I know that Chrysler now recommends motor oil and a shorter OCL in the AX transmissions. The main driver for that was the desire to no longer carry the correct GL-1/2/3/4 fluids in their service centers. GL-5 is the current 'standard' spec for gear lubes. But like Marcel wrote, it contains too much sulfur in it for the yellow metal parts in the transmissions. But both Amsoil and Redline do still manufacture GL-4 lubricants specifically intended for transmissions needing gear lube. I used amsoil 75w-90 that they recommended for the tranny and my front/rear diff. As I looked up their site now it shows it's a gl5 oil. Should I be draining it and using something different? HOW FAST will this oil eat at my transmission?

Radiatorbarn.com was my source and I was happy with the quality. Also any autoparts store should be able to source one for you, however IIRC the ones from radiatorbarn are 2 or 3 row with metal tanks and alot of them at the parts stores have plastic tanks on the sides. It would also be possible to verify prior to order that the radiator from them has the electric fan bung, if you have or plan to install an oem electric fan, and they may even add one for you. I decided to get a new radiator over a used simply because who knows what else happened over the last 2 years in your own radiator or a donor. As an example my old wasn't working well due to the scale build up, it appeared someone had put radiator fix in, and it also looked as if the internals had started to corrode possibly due to them not using distilled water.

Probably more likely. I really don't like when people post ads like that on CL with very little detail. It's a free posting, put some damn details down and list what you're selling accurately!!! Take 30 frigging seconds and reread what you posted!!!! This is what I read when I see the post "I have a 86 jeep Comanche 2.8 v6 that runs but over heats. " and all the other is extra parts.

Just saw this post out of Vancouver Washington. http://portland.craigslist.org/clk/pts/3107583702.html

I'm pretty sure they're the company that lists everything, but then once you order you'll receive and email stating it's n/a

regarding the cab of the truck... If it's bad enough that you can't weld in new pans, or scrap steel you've gotta find a new truck. The front half of a comanche is a unibody. That means the cab is part of the structural frame. New floor pans are available for each side, or you can go to a junk yard and take a few cut off wheels with a grider and cut the floor pan out of an XJ some pounding is required for a perfect fit, but not as bad as scrap steel. Untill then yabadabba doo!!!

I'll chime in just to show there's no prejudice towards new commers, but I really don't have the experience with the wiring your about to tackle .. I guess it depends what part of the harness you're wanting to use, if you're just going to try and replace the fuse panel you may end up doing a lot of cutting and soldering as i'mt not sure how much of the entire dash loom you could use. The ECU's are different so my guess is the pinning would be different. Also with the 2.5 being an auto it's going to have additional wires for the tranny controller, and neutral safety switch.... I think an 86 was also Throttle body injected, whereas the 87 4.0 should be multiport injection, however the wires coming from the fuse panel probably aren't much different, but the routing of the wires and plugs may be different enough that the project may be better off waiting for a more similar vehicle.

Nothing from the coolant system goes to an A/C.... the upper hose goes around the AC from the thermostat housing to the radiator. then the A/C hoses go into the cab where there is an additional exchanger in there. If you're converting to an open system and replacing the radiator to have the filler neck you need only a few pieces. 1. radiator from and open system 2. coolant overflow bottle with hose to bottom (your current expansion tank cannot be used) 3. upper and lower radiator hoses (lower is the same, upper i'm not sure) 4. a hose from the thermostat housing to the heater core connection at fire wall 5. a hose from the water pump to the other heater core connection at the fire wall. the funny looking j-t is not used and the valve for the heat control can be eliminated ( be sure to plug the vacuum line)

a couple quick searches yielded: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=35064 viewtopic.php?f=2&t=32876

lower shift boot. it fits fine. it's gone up a bit in price since i bought it. but this fit my 89 perfect http://www.quadratec.com/products/52106_03.htm

napaonline and search for emission hoses once you enter yr mk mdl

Just search around. I've built one from my own designs. Link to my build of bumpers is in my signature. so has H3RESQ his is here: viewtopic.php?f=7&t=29393

Well i replaced the serp belt with a Dayco. I now only get a belt squeal with a very hard throttle acceleration. If it comes back as bad as it was i'm going to pull that pulley and spin it on the lathe until it's flat.

You may have never had an issue, but I look at it this way, the manufacture advises against it for legalities because they are uncertain if it could possibly lock in 2 wheel drive. After you installed the spartan and you did the lock test how firm did you need to hold your front drive shaft to lock the wheels? Regardless with you running the spartan up front with a straight axle do you hear the ratchet of the spartan at every corner? How long have you ran it this way? Do you check the teeth often? i did the unlock test as per the instructions. spun it to lock (jacked up the whole axle, spinning one wheel acting like power was applied till locked) then spun one tire the opposite direction to make sure it unlocked. it did everytime. i hear no clicking. don't even really think it did much after i put it in. however when i did the test after first installed, i heard clicking but per instructions again, you should hear the clicking to ensure its working correctly. once ran awhile, it will quiet down as the teeth get "settled in". which they said would do once used. ive helped install several spartans and aussies and everybody gets some clicking when first installed. after they run it, it quiets down because again, the teeth kind of groove themselves into the locker pattern so to speak. some say the aussies really click but some say they don't. so i don't know on that note... now ive heard if you installed it wrong, without the proper spacing it could catch like your saying when turning because it can't space to properly stay unlocked. maybe as the springs wear it could be an issue but out of the box it should space its self correctly IMO. after all its how they designed it but stranger things have happened... i check the teeth everytime the cover is pulled, along with ring gear teeth. its been awhile with it installed. decent street time and heavy offroad use. no issues with sharp turns or even regluar turns. I would have thought it would ratchet a majority of the time. My lock rite in the rear will ratchet when i turn into a parking stall with out power applied. Almost like cards in bike spokes.

I had the same issue with my brake light fuse contact. I however found my self not able to get to the back of the fuse panel. The wires are incredibly tight behind the panel and I couldn't acquire enough slack to turn the panel. I only unscrewed the stuff through the cab so maybe there are other places to create slack. what i ended up doing was making my fuse blades thicker by putting a drop of solder on them then flattening it out some. Has done the trick for me so far. I'm going to stay tuned just incase someone posts the magic required to get to the back of the fuse panel with out tearing apart the entire truck.

I don't know about "most" full-time transfer cases, but the Jeep 242 full-time transfer case does NOT have any limited slip mechanism in it. And the 242 wasn't available in the MJ anyway -- anybody who has one installed it him/herself. My apologies i should have said slip bias systems... the 247 has a limited slip like system. the 242 when in 4x4 full time has A planetary differential between the front and rear axles to turn at different speeds as when cornering while dividing torque equally between them.