skidoo_j

Well I'd love to see what you produce I could be the first buyer. I'm not all that great with illustrator, photoshop yes, but not had the practice in AI. When you printed them did they show pixelation? I know vector printing should be crisper but again minimal experience. What kind of customization are you thinking just color schemes?

Well i really do like your rear bumper probably more then mine, i really liked the wrap on it, I just didn't want to cut my bed up and by the time i cut it up and lowered the ends, it probably would have been too low hence why I didnt wrap my rear. .... Well I'm glad you're still running it though. It really is nice and if you'd a sold it they probably wouldn't have appreciated the amount of work into it. I'm debating on doing sliders. About how much do you think your sliders weigh or about how much material did you use. What gauge tube did you use.. I'm also looking into a custom bull guard too. although i think painting the entire truck is more important.

it's pretty straight forward. If you have to run new wires completely get your key'd switch power from your cig lighter that where stock grabs it, atleast in my rig and it's still factory wiring. Otherwise all you need is 12v constant, ground, and an antenna. The speaker wires can be chased out with a continuity meter because the cab is so small, although if you're going to be running nice speakers you may consider pulling new speaker wires as the stock ones are probably 16 gauge

the front plate is just zip tied to the front cowl right now. I plan to make a bracket that fits in the receiver. Then when i get around to making the winch bracket i'll make some sort of dual purpose connection so i could leave the winch in the front and attach the plate to it too. The rear plate is sunk into the rear bumper and the exhaust pipe comes out below the plate. I guess you could say clearance was an afterthought because I was designing them to conceal the tubes for my hitch and winch as well as the looks were more in the design then rock crawling clearance. I don't ever plan to go bigger then the 31" tires that are on it now... I know the front tabs are low, but when compared to the approach angle of my bumper vs an arb winch bumper i've got a more vertical angle. My brother has the arb bumper on his xj. I also wanted to be able to push some one with out gording their rig. I think I even used some of your bumper work/photos for ideas. You have the grey truck with the dimpler and the rock guards that wrap up after the door, I think you welded them to the truck and were selling that awesome rear bumper, but you'd cut into the bed right? If I"m thinking right your lines and pieces were cut a hell of a lot better then mine, I free handed all the cuts with a plasma and don't have a metal break so each angle is a cut piece welded at the angle. I don't know if I'll drive up to browns for awhile with the comanche. My brother still lives in portland and we've been using the corolla when we go with gas prices the way they are. Thanks

drill holes, weld the crack then reinforce. JCRoffroad sells supports that go on the outside and inside to stiffen it. you can also get a steering box brace that supports from passenger side. Just about all off road companies have the steering box support bar. and they're easy enough to make... rusty's here's some links to the reinforcements crok ztech roxolid jcroffroad on another note i have a drawing with the dimensions if you wanted to make your own too. It's from one of the companies above their cad drawings.

Each time I changed my IAC I found that I needed to drive it a little bit. It's a little motor that pushes a pintle into a seat. So when you first installed it it is in who knows what location, so the computer could be closing it too much. I think someone said 40mph for a few miles usually will exercise the iac to full open. Did you clean the seat in the throttle body prior to installing a new one? As Cruiser said there are no vacuum lines to the iac just an electrical plug with 4 wires and two screws that attach it on to the throttle body. If you've replaced all your vacuum lines on the engine side, did you cap off the vacuum port on the back (cab side) of the intake, it's the vacuum line that goes to the heat control, cruise control, the vacuum bladder, and CAD control if you have it... Maybe there's a leak in that stuff too. I assume you have renix, so are you still using the egr valve? do you maybe have those hoses connected incorrectly that will really screw with the running of the truck or if the egr solenoid is bad and letting partial vacuum through at idle. There are three vacuum lines required to run MAP (on firewall) to throttle body, Intake Manifold to Fuel Pressure regulator, and Valve cover to Intake Manifold. Then there's non vacuum (larger diameter) valve cover to air box, and one airbox to charcoal canister that then goes back to the fuel tank. Here's a labeled picture of my vacuum with no egr.. This is just how I did it keeping the critical stuff with no emission requirements.

I"ve been fighting odd idle problems with mine for about 6 months, replacing one electrical sensor at a time and changing stuff out. At no point did I have colored smoke. What the IAC if fail would do is the idle would be very high like a vacuum leak if stuck open or sputter out possibly and die if stuck closed. Other then that it's kinda a pot shoot if it hangs inbetween closed open etc. I went through 3 iacs from JY and none made a difference. So that's what prompt me down other sensors, but I"ve now replaced everything new but the IAC, needless to say i've bought a new one and it's going in the next time I open the hood. The wondering idle could be caused by the IAC but could also be caused by a vacuum line that isn't quite broken and a leak is created during vibrations of the motor. You can use propane or staring fluid to try and chase out a vacuum leak. another thing i did was once the idle is low with motor running disconnect the iac. rev it. if idle drops to same each time and the wondering stops then replace you iac if not keep searching. also your map sensor could cause your described problem as it directly affects your fuel ratio so that could explain extra smoke.

send a pm to johnnyc here's his post on our forum: viewtopic.php?f=37&t=13318&p=349219#p349219

which motor???

Before you commit to buy it call your local scrap yard or Junk yard and find out if they need the title. In oregon I think they require a title to sell to a junk yard and even a scrap yard now. Lots of meth head steal everything now and sell it for scrap... and after you get done parting it out you'll still be stuck with the shell or rather picked carcass. and something sounds bogus to me as shipping from florida to ohio would be more than 400.

what's wrong with it at 400??? Rolled?

Well you should be able to sell a few big items. What year is it?? that'll make a difference too. Prices in my area for parts from 86-94 ish (for some reason people want more for 95+) would be rear axle for 100 Wheels tires 100-300 pending tread Hitch??? 25 hatch/doors approx 50/ea front clip 100 oem bumpers 40 ea seats 20-120 depending on fabric and condition. other then that it's really nickle and dime and hope someone wants to buy entire pieces from you. the front axle maybe sellable to someone doing a dune buggy or hot rod

Thanks for confirming my memory.

IMO it depends on the purchase price. Then wagering it against the time i'd have to sit on a Cherokee with out a motor to part out and make my money back, or if it would be possible to make enough money parting out the other pieces to get an engine for free. You can always get atleast 100 for a carcass with out wheels if you have means to get it to a junk yard or metal scraper. If it's a "roller" they give a little more at the junk yard as they'll try and sell the axles. Craigslist is free, but you may be stuck with the parts for months. Although I did buy a VW Golf with a Neuspeed S/C that the guy wrecked. I yanked the S/C and some other stuff swapped my parts back over and sold it for the same price i paid. And i did it in a week. So the wife was happy and i was happy as i got new rotors, a supercharger, headliner, set of dual chamber headlights that weren't damaged for free.

Actually got my rear bumper installed that matches the lines of the front. And i'm surprisingly happy with how they turned out. They don't look too home made, the rear looks almost professionally done. I did learn that if you're cutting rustoleum paint from the quart use acetone during cold/mild weather. We used mineral spirits and it took almost 24 hours for it to get dry to the touch. I contacted rustoleum and they informed me that mineral spirits increase dry time, but also allow the paint to float more evenly... here's pics of the installed bumpers... Next to paint the truck... viewtopic.php?f=7&t=35272&p=349156#p349156

Also a good build thread that has a new paint job is rockMJ's he just posted a full start to finish build thread of what looks like a year or more worth of work. it's all pictures of what he's done gives you ideas as to what to expect for an awesome paint job. viewtopic.php?f=7&t=35568 re 97 + door maybe it's the hinges are different... Either way somthing prevents them from just going on with out modification..

As i recall i think it's a different style or in a different location... Maybe I'm wrong, but i though I'd seen someone post a picture and it was different.

Did you keep your illustrator files with the dash gauge layouts? Was it tricky getting the needles off? When you did the lay outs I assume you printed them on sticker paper and then cut out the areas with a exacto blade. Are you willing to share the files, or maybe change them for a gauge cluster with a tach??? How do you like the bushwacker flat fender flares? Did you have the door panels re-upholstered or did you just paint them or get from a donor rig? Where did you get it painted and what did it set you back? Did you pull the door card too and have them spray under or just have them tape and mask the sill and door? It's a damn nice paint job in your pics. Did you end up replacing all the rubbers around the windows ? What did that set you back?

I run a dynamax header no cat and a flomaster 40 delta with 2.5" pipe through out. Sounds really clean, Pretty deep but quiet too.

I had a similar issue, I don't remember if i didn't have spark out of the ICM or just out of the distributor, but my issue was the wires that go to the CPS not the one on the bell housing the one in the distributor http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Eng ... Stator.htm anyways one of those wire had been pulled loose. I pushed them back in and it started. Pretty much if it sat for too long assume an animal got up in there and pulled on your wires. I'd kinda check all the essential connections...

The front doors off a 4 door xj will work up to 96? with out modification. Lots of people even put 97 doors on them but i think they redo the strike. Before you paint you should probably debate if you plan to put bigger tires etc as if you end up cutting out your fenders. If you plan to remove your fender flares to paint, plan on breaking every bolt that holds them on and having to replace them. They were welded to a metal bracket that is inside the flare and then go through the quarter panel and are exposed on the inside of the wheel well so most all are totally rusted. So you may consider taping and not pulling, getting different ones and trim quarter panel now, or plan to fish bolts through and afix them some how. alot of the window gaskets and channels are available by the foot at most auto part restore places, some napa. Also team cherokee had some. Also check out quadratec. as far as painting goes if you're wanting it to look more stock and not planing to do a complete tear down paint it something close to the inside of the door jamb. I prefer to paint (plans in the works) mine as close to a stock color as possible that way if i get in an accident it's easier to find a close match, I also plan to go with rustoleum and will spray with a gun, that way if i get scrapes or gashes i can have a quick touch up for $4 with a rattle can.

The completed shots. i may add a brush/bull bar type to the front to give it a little more attitude but i'm done for now except mounting a horn some where.

if you just put a new radiator in I'd disconnect the heater core and flush it now... Otherwise all the scale will end up in your new radiator. Mine was nasty, I think the prev owner may have used some of the leak stop too. at radiator shops they use like a pulsing wash that helps loosen things. I'm sure many other Comanche club and various car restore mechanics would strongly recommend it. Just like most people on here will tell you if you have your dash out--- might want to replace the heater core and fan.

Since you've removed the heater control valve i don't imagine it will make a difference in the direction of flow through the heater core. I hope you flushed the heater core out a few times prior to hooking it up. I ran about 6' of hose on each and then ran the garden hose back and forth between them and would switch once the water ran clear.

The vacuum hose needs to be capped or plugged if you're not going to use it to operate the heater core valve. When you move the slider from cold to hot you'd have a vacuum leak on your engine. If you don't have cruise and have eliminated your Central axle disconnect you can chase the air hose back to the intake manifold and disconnect it. On that line is also the vacuum bladder that is in the front bumper. regarding hose routing see post the diy forum random picture thread for this post: