dave92cherokee

Sounds like the rear load sensor isn't working properly or isn't adjusted correctly. There's write-ups on how to remove it and bypass it as well as problems bleeding brakes because of it.

Theres two mj's in the local junkyard that i'll throw on here. Both are long beds, one is a white 1986 2.5L and the other is a 1987 grey 4.0L. Both beds appear in good shape both rear bumpers are dented up but are fixable. I already pulled one good set of tail lights and the drivers side from the other as the passenger side was busted. Pulled both sending units and one of the e-brakes and will be getting the other after work this week just needed a bigger phillips screwdriver. Both have bench seats one is red interior and the other is blue interior, all trim pieces appear to be present and in usable condition. Neither have a headliner or backer board one is a slider rear glass and the other is a fixed rear. Hoping to get both of them pulled as well since i have a rear slider missing the plastic clip thinking of going solid window. If anyone on here wants something from them or wants me to see if its available just PM me to let me know what you want.

The big question is are you the one thats going to paint it or are you going to do the prep work then have someone pai t it for you? If its the earlier option then either an epoxy or high quality high build primer would be good, but you could ask the person working the paint store which they recommend for the paint that you would be using. If you will be having someo e paint it for you ask them what primer they want you to use to prevent having to re-primer it.

When i was stripping the interior out of the manche and had to remove the belts i ran into the same problem. I have already cut the rockers off so had access to both sides of the bolt. The location of the bolt and welded nut is a bad one as water collects in the area and will cause it to rust and lock itself i to position as shown here, and no amount of heat or pb blaster would do anything to it. I was finally able to get it out by taking a torch and old candle, heat up the bolt from either end or both if you have access and when the bolt and entire area is good and hot rub the candle on it allowing the wax to melt and creep back into the threads. I did this a few times and the heated it up very well one last time and it came out with ease.

The underhood insulatiin isn't going to do anything for you in the event if an underhood fire except burn. They marginally do anything for the noise, they are however better than nothing for noise and temps. Before putting it in you would do well to clean the bottom side of the hood to remove all the grease and oil and whatnot you can. As for the paint fading and cracking without one it will happen because these engines like to run hot. That being said most of us don't have one and would rather put in hood vents instead to let out the heat.

I'm sure some here have done it, but I know ALOT of people on NAXJA have done it and the front end of a mj and xj are the same. Go over there and look through the advanced fab section and you're sure to get plenty of ideas.

The rear cable from the split to drum is the same for both sides. Not sure about some auto parts stores but it shows that Oreilly auto has the cable available part number BC93591. When I was doing the brake system on the manche I bought 2 of them and they fit perfectly.

The doors will fit but would require changing the latch on the rear pillar to the style that the 97+ doors used. There's been several people do that to MJ's and XJ's as well.

What rear end do you have in your MJ the 35 or 44? If it's the 35 you can easily grab the axle from any xj with a 35 rear end to use in it.

viewtopic.php?p=298009#p298009 Look at my post about half way down the page. Those were pics taken when the company was looking to make some brackets. The LWB mounts on the side are bigger and flat, the SWB mounts on the side have the cut outs as mentioned plus a clearance bend to go around the shackle mount on the outside of the frame.

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1033211 There's a link to an ongoing thread on naxja about just such a swap, don't know how in depth or long the thread is though. If/when I replace the engine it will most likely be a 4.7 stroker for the ease of the swap.

Maybe since you lack the ability to properly describe where the screws are and what they're used for you should get a pic and post it. And I doubt that the xj screws would work as xj's don't have tailgates they have a rear hatch that's held on with two hinges in the roof.

Those highlighted in RED are mostly XJ only upgrades. Some options could be used for upgrading MJ's but would have to be checked out before commiting to them.

First time I've ever seen an XJ with a pickup bed and roll bar..... Definitely good score for spare parts alone or whatever the future plans involve.

If you're sitting at 3-3.5" SUA lift tell us what you have installed so we can tell you what you will need to replace and get new. If you've got aftermarket hell creek springs or the like then you'll have to swap them out for stocks otherwise you'll end up with ~9" of lift in the rear.

Don't forget front coil springs, control arms, steering, trac bar, bump stops, driveshaft angle, sway bar/links. All this adds up to more very quickly as doing a SOA will get you around 5-6" of lift so stock parts will not be able to be used at that height.

Probably only going to find one in the junkyard. Should be able to find the same piece off an xj that would work.

From the pics it looks like your bed is pre-conditioned for herc. Just make sure there's no rust as it would continue under the herc. Make sure that there's no smooth shiny paint anywhere in the bed and all is good, herc will do fine on bare metal and if worried rough it up with coarse sandpaper for better bite.

I would be skeptical of that unit as it looks like a cheaply made chinese unit that would probably not work to well. Depending on your budget an needs I found a decent analog o-scope for $330 here: http://www.testequipmentdepot.com/ezdigital/os5020.htm and looks like it would suit your needs up to 20MHz which most crystals run below that on average.

Looking good, for getting the carpet to stay on the back side what about a short piece of 1"x1" stainless or aluminum screwed or riveted into place.

If I was to build a trailer I'd go for a long bed. Then I'd build a popup camper to fit on top of it (since wildernest campers are so hard to find) that could be removed when not in use. That way you could take the camper part off when you needed to haul stuff around and slide it on when you wanted to go camping. You could even build a mount on the inside of a tailgate to allow you to attach/remove a step for climbing into it.

It's not difficult at all, just have some tranny fluid available as some will leak out when pulling the extension housing off. You can take it to a shop and have them press it in for you or do it yourself in the driveway with a piece of wood and hammer. They make a special tool for pulling them out easier than using a screwdriver. Only thing inside it is a couple of oiling lines to help move the tranny fluid around where it needs to be. Then when putting it back together have some RTV or a can of great stuff gasket maker.

I haven't checked so don't quote me on it but I believe that the minting point for the glass is different. The normal doors have the square windows towards the back keeping the mechanics towards the back. The newer models have the one piece glass which would allow the mechanics to be in the middle of the door.

Just scrolled through the thread and he hasn't started cutting yet. He got the bed painted to get it done since its not integral to the chop. Then he's got the mj sandblasted and primered to stop rust while planning. He's got the tools, space, and biggest thing I don't have is a body guy that knows how to do body work. Good luck to him and hope it goes well, looks like more people are starting to look at building one of them.

I don't think I've seen that one before, although he's still in the planning stages it seems. I'm still slowly trying to work on mine when time permits between all the different ball practice schedules and games. It would be nice if we could have a thread linking all the quad cab builds that people have seen done, or have pictures of REAL mj's and not photoshopped.