dave92cherokee

I have not started tried to source a new tank yet but I am curious where you are finding a replacement tank without the slosh pan. I think this is the route I want to take along with the OEM 99 pump and sender with adapter rings. http://raybuck.com/i-66714-gas-tank-86- ... -o-fi.html There's the one I'm planning on getting and they also have tanks with the pan in for someone wanting to buy a new one.

You're sort of right, the fuel pump mounts on the fuel sending unit (which for MJ's can no longer be purchased). The fuel sending unit is the piece that mounts to the tank that the lines run through the metal plate then curve down to the pump. The gauge sender is attached to the sending unit and has the float arm going through it to vary the resistance on it for the fuel level. I'm getting ready to buy a tank for my short bed without the pan inside as that's the only hinderance to being able to use an XJ sending unit in the MJ tank.

I've had my old XJ completely cut apart when i was going to make it into a buggy. The cowl area drains into two little holes one on each side that drain inside the wheel well area. The most common points for the XJ leaks are the windshield and the luggage rack bolts. When I had mine I got a tube of black roofing sealant and pulled off all the metal trim around the windshield as it's only clipped into place then filled the gap under it with the sealant. Put the metal strips back on and the windshield was taken care of. To do the luggage rack get some clear silicone and loosen the bolts so they're almost completely out and squeeze a little under the rack around the front 2 bolts on each side.

While I agree with the pinion angle and moving the perches the XJ perches are not offset as much as the picture shows. I measured the rear 44 in my MJ and the 8.25 from my old 93 XJ and there was only 1" of difference from center to center.

Is this a slosh pan or something? How does the removal of the panel cause the gauge to move around? If its a stock Comanche tank, how do you plan on adapting the Cherokee pump? I'm really new at this and just trying to figure it all out. Thanks for the help. The pan that's inside the manche tanks is there to help keep the fuel level from sloshing around so the pump always has fuel and the gauge is accurate. However the stock manche sending unit's are no longer produced either by aftermarket or dealerships so it makes it extremely hard on those of us who need one. If swapping out for a fuel tank without a pan the cherokee sending unit and pump can be used as the only interference with it is being turned the other way and the pan being in the way.

I'm planning on buying a fuel tank for my short bed without the pan inside so I can run a cherokee fuel pump in it so the dash gauge will read correctly. Some have said that the gauge will move around some but if you don't let it get below 1/4 tank it shouldn't be to bad.

Yah I'm kind of leaning towards doing just a solid color just trying to figure out what color would look best given the tan interior. Also might do a two tone where it's kind of like the stock xj was where the lower part of doors and fender flares are tan.

Rear driveshaft will either be a custom made job (~$500) or if I can get lucky and find something the right size or close in the JY from a fullsize truck with a 2 piece shaft. No 4wd only 2wd (for now may change down the road).

I disagree. if the door frame doesn't line up, there's an issue. that's what should have been lined up from the get-go. Only problem with that is that the XJ and MJ both get wider as they move back from the front bumper, then about half way back they start to narrow down some. If you look at the rockers of a 4 door xj there's a little lip on the outside edge that shows it getting wider as it goes back.

The body's perfectly square since i did the frame first. The rockers are like that and have to be aligned because of the natural curve in the vehicles being connected at different points. For the simple fact of more leg room so this jeep can actually sit 5 adults comfortably, and it's not that long just looks longer. Door is only 2" longer than the front doors but that gives me almost 10" of additional legroom in the backseat. Not sure whether I'm going to lift it and put some 33-35" A/T's on it or if I'm going to lower it a couple of inches and give better road handling as it's going to be street only. As for color I'm not sure what color I'm going to paint it yet as it will have to be something that will go along with the tan interior.

Was also just thinking about something but does anyone know somewhere I can order new pioneer decals that I could run the full length of the truck when it's done? I've searched on here and it seems to be most people talk about the raised letter jeep and comanche emblems but not the stickers on the sides.

That's what it looks like now in the driveway. Doesn't look much different from the last pic due to having to travel for work so much. I've got the roof most of the way welded on just need to finish off a few areas. Need to get the rockers aligned and welded together, also need to get the doors welded together to close it in. After that I need to form the patch for the rear floor and get it welded in then I can start work on sealing it up and removing rust inside. Also got the new seats for it delivered this past weekend they came from a 98+ dodge durango, power drivers normal passenger bucket, then rear split bench with fold down console. An idea for others to maybe try out but the rear bench which is the durango middle row mounts flat, and folds forward for access behind seats. Now the thing I'm having a hard time figuring out is do I want to lower it a couple of inches since it will be street only and absolutely no offroading or do I want to do a spring over and put it on 35's. I'm kind of leaning towards lowering it since I'm planning on buying another MJ when this is done to build into my offroader, what are some opinions of people?

http://knoxville.craigslist.org/cto/2060546353.html

ckahl2 you'd be better off doing a 97+ 4.0 conversion than doing a 3.1/3.4 swap. Doing the V6 swap would require alot more mods to the engine bay and such which is what is being talked about. Whereas the 4.0 swap would only require gutting the donor and transplanting everything over, as well as a few other mods for the dash to fit.

$70 for a cell phone holder? Why when places like best buy and numerous other stores have actual GPS units for the same price and some refurb's for a little less?

I'd recommend pulling apart the fuse block/firewall connection. The clutch master cylinder is known for leaking, and when it does it runs right down the firewall to the connector and causes all sorts of problems.

Actually if I'm not mistaken the original three pane slider rear windows are no longer made and there are no aftermarket ones that are still made for our MJ's. I'm trying to find slider windows from other trucks like s10 and such that could be used in a replacement.

I've also read in some of the lowering mj/xj threads on here and on NAXJA that the front coils out of early 90's ford rangers will give 3-4" of drop in the front.

depending on how much you get left in the cherokee anything from a 99- would work just anything HO will have to have harnesses and such swapped around.

I'm all the way on the otherside in TN.

Doing some work on the cheromanche and the comanche population in the JY's is pretty slim around here. Was wondering if anyone else knows of a tailgate from another truck that fits our mj's. Been looking at older s10's and sonoma's but the tailgate design is a little off.

Ahh my bad just looked up a pic and the 14 bolt was the small one with the smaller ring gear. I'm used to seeing people build using the 1ton versions with the easily identifiable diff cover and the larger ring gear.

http://nashville.craigslist.org/ctd/1958866993.html Even better there's a dealer here in the nashville, tn area that's trying to sell an MJ for just over $15K

Yah it may create an additional weak point but I'm not going to be wheeling it so flexing the body doesn't concern me. When it's done I will be using 3" angle to create a stiffener from leaf mount to LCA mount to stiffen the entire thing. The 9" of angle was to support the two frames where they meet. Yah using an xj and mj from the same year would help greatly but I had a HO and didn't want to mess with the renix from the problems I see alot of the xj guys having. Will be finishing the roof next weekend being weather agree's with me and when I get it done I will update with some pics which will help you in deciding which way to go with your roof.

Did you already swap the eaton in the rear cuz I still haven't seen any pics showing the 14B in the rear.