dave92cherokee

http://nashville.craigslist.org/cto/2301438995.html Sitting in murfreesboro, tn for $1k

Renix is the designation of the manufacturer of the engine Jeep 4.0's up to 90 were of the renix era and 91 and on they switched to being the 4.0 HO (high output)

http://www.daveysjeeps.com/index.html I sent him a request to see if he has the sending unit from a 91-92 MJ so we'll see how broad his knowledge and inventory is.

Fav would be 2.5 rockwell's, after that it would be a 60/shaved 14B combo.

It sounds like the 87 had the 10x1 3/4" brakes and the 92 likely has the 10x2 1/2" brakes. What axles were being swapped are they both 35's or was it 35 to 44 or what? I would probably use the 10x2 1/2" brakes to simply have the extra contact area.

I'm in the middle of replacing everything in my 44 as well. When you're looking at parts online you've got the 10" x 2 1/2" rear brakes.

http://www.stockinteriors.com/items.asp ... ck_Padding There's a link to the place I'm planning on ordering the padding and new carpet from when I get the floors finished. They also have new rubber floor if your's was in bad shape.

Yah some of the dealers and even private parties around here think just because it's a jeep means they can jack the prices like people do with wranglers. It could be worse though there's a dealer down here that used to list a 88 red pioneer for 15,777.

http://nashville.craigslist.org/ctd/2293283312.html Blue, long bed, automatic, factory roll bar with lights for sale in White House TN for $3995.

Where in TN are you as there's a few on here but alot of us on NAXJA spread across the area.

There's a pic of about how it sits right now. Waiting for rain to clear off to get every chance i have to work on it. And for a length standpoint the wheelbase as you see is roughly 144"

Oh where oh where to begin making fun of this 'tard? How about starting with that he has a D35 in the front with a spool and a 8.8 in the rear with a 2.5 ton driveshaft in the rear. Also let's all take note in how important a custom track bar is to fighting axle wrap, he also states he did a SOA but I though YJ's were already spring over. And the best is all that running on the stock 4 banger, no wonder the rad blew up the time he took it "offroad", surprised the engine didn't blow as well.

That's the fuel pump ballast resistor, alot of them deteriorate over time so we just splice the two wires together bypassing it. And in the 97+ XJ's they eliminated it all together. Only thing it does is make the fuel pump run a little louder than before.

You are correct that ball is the vacuum canister that keeps a vacuum for things like a/c controls, cruise and stuff like that. Alot of people relocate them into the engine compartment especially when putting on an aftermarket front bumper.

Was working on redoing the brakes on the D44 in the cheromanche I'm working on. I got the hardware kit in and got the passenger side almost done. Went to take off the drivers side drum and was a little hard to get off. Figured it was siezed a little from PO so started tapping it with a hammer to break it free. Well I got it to break free and slid the drum off to find absolute horror: :eek: Then if that wasn't bad enough I found this little jewel laying in the bottom: :doh: In all my time doing brakes, especially drums I've NEVER seen anything even close to this bad. Hardware, shoes, wheel cylinder are no problem as I'm replacing that anyways. One of my problems is where to get that cross bar and spring from as no local parts stores carry it, cannot find a replacement on rock auto or summitracing. The next problem I have is both rear parking brake cables are rusted tight and will not budge so I'm trying to find a replacement for them as well, and not having much luck in finding a replacement for them. If anyone on here has an idea of what to do I'm all ears.

From the pics it looks like either the bushings in the shackles are shot or the bushings in the back of the leaves are shot, or maybe both. I'd pull the shackle off the passenger side first as it looks like the worst condition and inspect both bushings.

In answer to your question, no. The sealant is in a tube which gets laid down in a good thick bead to provide leveling and sealing as the metal is not perfect even off the manufacturing line. Windshield removal is extremely difficult unless you have the correct tools, if you try to do it without the correct tools you will crack the window and it will be useless to you. I would recommend if you're going to do this that you get the proper tools for removing and cutting through the sealant then practice on your truck that will be getting the new glass. This way it's coming out anyways so you will be able to see how difficult it will be.

Shelbyville, TN $3.18 last night on the way home, $3.28 on the way in this morning. Last week same store was $2.98.

I agree that the most I'd give would be about 500, and the pic he posted isn't even his truck it's one he found via google search, the brake and turn signals sounds like it could be the grounding issue behind the tail light, throw a starter in it and drive it on the trailer. Getting a notorized bill of sale would be a big help but if you're planning on just using this one to fix your's then it won't matter as you'll be keeping your original vin number.

Most gauge kits come with the center holes made big enough to go over the needles. If you remove them there's a high likelyhood that you will break the needle or damage the gauge as they are not keyed and would not be accurate anymore.

Part number: DL48260 Check autozone's website and they're available to ship to home. It's the lock cylinder and keys for a 93 cherokee. Thankfully that's one of the things that interchangeable with the XJ's.

That's not shower glass it's just crappy tint that turned purple and bubbled up.

Passing this along from the NAXJA for sale that I saw. It's a 4.0 with 5sp 2wd MJ for sale in AR and he's only asking $900.

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showpost.php ... stcount=19 In an effort to clear out some clutter I'm needing to get rid of this stuff. PM me if you're in middle TN for my address to come pick up whatever you want.

The trim's the easy part it just snaps into place on snaps that are around the windshield. Once you get one piece up it pops itself up the rest of the way. When I was chopping my old 92 up and pulling the windshield the black adhesive from about the middlepoint over to the passenger corner wasn't attached to the window at all. It looked as if when it was put in the adhesive is started in that corner, taken along the bottom and then around the rest of the windshield and by the time the glass is laid in place the beginning of it has already cured and does not seal correctly.