dave92cherokee

The XJ tank goes from side to side under the hatch, pre 97 tanks had a pump that mounts in like the mj pump but is an exact mirror physically and resistance for float arm is backwards and had a fuel return lines. Post 97 tanks had fuel pumps that mount in from the top but still go from side to side under the hatch but eliminated the fuel return line. I've seen some people in the past swap in dakota tanks when they did the 97+ swap and reported good success with the fuel sender and mounting, so I'd recommend searching dakota tank on here to get ideas from that.

If you haven't started then i'd recommend start spraying every bolt under there with PB a couple of times a day until you get ready to do it to help loosen up everything. Then I'd also recommend having some anti-sieze on hand for when putting it back together to help avoid the problem in the future.

Matching the color is easy, just get everything and do a full 97+ swap. And yes some did come with a tan color but it's different enough that it could be noticeable and a problem for some.

The inside of the doors are different I have the 93 quad cab and a 97 xj. Holes for clips and arm rests are in different positions between the two. And 98+ may have different hinges but the hinges can be unbolted from the door and the older hinges bolted back in place.

Interior panels are different just like the windows and striker/latch. It takes a little modifying to get a 97+ door to work on a 96- jeep so don't think it's just a bolt in mod.

It sounds like something with the drums, have you jacked it up and taken them off to inspect everything?

I just got through calling ATT and cussing them out for shutting off my internet 10 days before the bill was due. They've tried crap like this in the past which is why I dropped them and now they're currently the only ones I can get internet through. Although as I type this I'm on the phone with comcast to light a fire under their butt to get the construction company to extend the line up to my house to get rid of ATT and Directv.

On a side note are those 2x4's between the shell and bedrails?

It's just a typical connector with a clip on it, should just squeeze on the clip to release it while pulling on it. Might have to rock it back and fourth to get it started if it hasn't been done in a long time.

Are you talking about the red lens is seperating from the back housing? If it's a small spot take a soldering iron and you can run it on the plastic which will melt it slightly and allow you to press them back together. This works better if there's some kind of filler material available like you would use if tig welding to melt onto the soldering iron to fill in the gaps and prevent big holes from opening up.

Was the fuel sending unit still in the tank? If so I'd like to talk about you getting it for me and possibly shipping it to me.

No judging by the cable length the P.O. used the renix cable. It comes up directly behind the head, over the valve cover and straight to the bracket it clips into at an almost 90* angle. Was just kind of hoping they didn't route it properly when changing the trans but looks like something I'll have to hunt for at the JY. I've never looked at it before but can it be removed from the transmission with ease or is it pretty involved to remove it?

What about turkey bay/LBL, it's in KY so would be close for midwest guys to come in as well as WV people, then people north and south could meet up. There's several campgrounds around the area as well as many trails for everything from stock to heavily modified.

I'm in, ftpierce just zoom in on the map to your place ( can even do satellite to put the marker on your house). Then click on additions and choose add marker simple, then I put in my username and towards the bottom there's an option for pictures so I uploaded one of the pictures on there.

As a side note does anyone know if the kick down cables were different lengths between the years? I've got a 97 xj that has a 88 aw4/242 swapped in it and the kick down cable is extremely short, it comes up right behind the head and just barely reaches the mounting bracket that it's supposed to clip into.

4 wheel steering has it's place which is on top end purpose built buggys. Cherokee's and comanche's have no need for 4 wheel steering as most places that people wheel can be done without it. Just put 60/60 or 60/14B in it with an exo cage and you will be able to pivot around anything better than 4 wheel steering would get you.

I got the backing and bulk carpet since there's no mold for the 4 door, the backing is nice and thick and the bulk roll carpet is good. I went with the doeskin color to best match the tan interior and it's thicker and softer than factory carpeting is.

When I got carpet and padding for the 4 door I went with stock interiors http://www.stockinteriors.com/ they have a large selection of carpet colors and will send you free samples of selected colors up to 8 i believe. If factory replacement they will mold the carpet to the vehicle floor shape before shipping for a better fit, all you will have to do is cut holes for shifters and seat mounts and stuff. The carpet seems to be good quality and goes in pretty easily.

The parts in the top are the roll over valves, in normal operation they allow the gas fumes to escape and go to the charcoal canister if the vehicle is rolled over they close off to prevent fuel from spilling out. They can normally be re-used but the rubber seal usually wears out on them causing a loose fit. If you replace the tank, get the sender refurbed, I would replace the inline filter and injectors as well. The rest of it is normal tune up items that should be done on a regular maintenance schedule.

The other option that I've seen people talk about on here is changing over to a durango tank and sending unit. Do a search here and you'll find the info, can't remember if it worked for the renix era or if it was for when people were doing the 97+ conversions or what.

There is no replacement sending unit for our trucks, only way you'll find one is junkyard, or someone who's parting a truck out. The other option is I've seen on here before that there's a company you can send your old sending unit out to and they'll completely rework it, replacing/rebrazing tubes to seal them replacing bad fuel level floats and what not. The other option is to get a new tank without the slosh pan inside it and use a cherokee sending unit which is a mirrored image of the mj sender.

The longest for running soft lines would be figuring out which line is feed and which is return to plumb them into the radiator the correct orientation. After that cutting and routing the soft lines should only take about a half hour once you have the proper size hose.

Follow the trans lines back under the engine to the passenger side and the hardlines should change into soft lines. Follow those soft lines back to where then go (which should be back into hardlines at some point), then cut them there and replace with soft lines all the way to the new rad and fittings using zipties to keep them away from moving parts of the engine.

I remember seeing it posted somewhere on here but the jeep get together that was scheduled for Stan McNabb in Tullahoma is back on. Just saw on TNjeeps that it's been moved to Sept. 13-14. Here is the link to it, I know some of the people from TNjeeps are planning on attending maybe we can get a decent representation of MJ's there. If I'm lucky I might be able to have the quad cab in good enough shape to drive it up there as well. https://www.facebook.com/events/533549650106178/

Here's a couple from a quick search on craigslist in nashville. http://nashville.craigslist.org/cto/4606187569.html http://nashville.craigslist.org/cto/4601453964.html http://nashville.craigslist.org/cto/4562933758.html http://huntsville.craigslist.org/cto/4575564937.html